Can you paint 6 panel interior doors?

Assuming that the other doors are already hanging, if you are hand painting them, I do not see the point in removing them to paint them. You can hand paint all sides in one go.
 
Assuming that the other doors are already hanging, if you are hand painting them, I do not see the point in removing them to paint them. You can hand paint all sides in one go.
I'd rather leave the doors hanging, the damaged one I've removed, due to painting the door frame, and not put back due to the damage.

It got damaged due to the dog knocking it over and it hit the bed frame.

Would toupret wood repair filler or toupret interior filler be ok to use?
 
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I'd rather leave the doors hanging, the damaged one I've removed, due to painting the door frame.

It got damaged due to the dog knocking it over and it hit the bed frame.

Would toupret wood repair filler or toupret interior filler be ok to use?

I would not use their "interior" filler. Their wood filler, I have never used, so I cannot comment.

When I started decorating, many years ago. I used generic powder based filler (Tetrion et al). I used it to feather out imperfections. I then discovered that it often "blows" away from the existing paint work years later.
 
I would not use their "interior" filler. Their wood filler, I have never used, so I cannot comment.

When I started decorating, many years ago. I used generic powder based filler (Tetrion et al). I used it to feather out imperfections. I then discovered that it often "blows" away from the existing paint work years later.
I'll try the wood filler.

Tetrion is the other filler I've got.

Appreciate the advice
 
Old gloss or strained doors you can use a surface cleaner and straight on with zinsser BIN.
I've been using zinsser aqua BIN and it's good.
Both are brilliant adhesion primers and stain blockers.
Give it a couple of hours then on with top coats. Johnstone square guard satin or Johnstones aqua gloss.

If you think doors are good and previous paint was waterbased then a good a paint cleaner and a acrylic primer undercoat.
Then top coats.

As for sanding as above. 180 grade although not necessary having cleaned.
Sanding is just to take any surface roughness off.

I've struggled with Dulux satin and gloss tbh. Some rate it though
 
Old gloss or strained doors you can use a surface cleaner and straight on with zinsser BIN.
I've been using zinsser aqua BIN and it's good.
Both are brilliant adhesion primers and stain blockers.
Give it a couple of hours then on with top coats. Johnstone square guard satin or Johnstones aqua gloss.

If you think doors are good and previous paint was waterbased then a good a paint cleaner and a acrylic primer undercoat.
Then top coats.

As for sanding as above. 180 grade although not necessary having cleaned.
Sanding is just to take any surface roughness off.

I've struggled with Dulux satin and gloss tbh. Some rate it though

I've got some old wilko primer left in the garage I'm hoping to use just to prime.

I'll give them a light sanding with 180. Then use up the dulux satinwood I've got.

I just wasn't sure due to the wood grain effect the sanding won't reach all of it.

I've filled the door so I'll leave it a day or 2 then see.

I've got some zinsser bin as that's on my list of jobs painting the loft hatch with it.
 
Wilko paint waterbased?
I'm not sure it's this, I think it's waterbased.
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Low VOC and clean tools and brushes with water.
Says that it's waterbased
 
Make 4 legs and screw to door ends.
Paint one side of door with mini roller then flip over and paint the other side.
By this wayners means to remove the door, screw 4 bits of wood to the ends , so they stick out each side then the side can be painted and the door flipped and painted again, and have two wet sides simultaneously

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If doors are not hung, I use a similar method.
I stick two screws top and bottom and rest them on 2 pieces of wood on the table.
You then need 2 people to turn the door over though.
The 4 legs work better, but I use a spacer where the legs are screwed so they don't touch the door edge and there's no risk of sticking.
 
If doors are not hung, I use a similar method.
I stick two screws top and bottom and rest them on 2 pieces of wood on the table.
You then need 2 people to turn the door over though.
The 4 legs work better, but I use a spacer where the legs are screwed so they don't touch the door edge and there's no risk of sticking.
I'm hoping to try 1 that's hung and see how it goes, atm ive primed the patches on the repaired door
 
If doors are not hung, I use a similar method.
I stick two screws top and bottom and rest them on 2 pieces of wood on the table.
You then need 2 people to turn the door over though.
The 4 legs work better, but I use a spacer where the legs are screwed so they don't touch the door edge and there's no risk of sticking.

Surely turning a heavy door with two people trying to grab two screws each is extremely difficult?

That said, back in the days when I used to paint bookcases, I would often have to paint dozens of shelves in a day (top/bottom/front face- oil based eggshell). I would hammer in two screws into the edge of the shelf (about 6" from the edge to mitigate splitting) and then two screws in the opposite edge (just about wide enough to be able to rest my hand on them).

I added a bit of 18mm ply to the top of a festool systainer. I cut a slot into the ply to hold the screws captive whilst I slightly tilted the shelves. I was able to paint all three sides in one hit.

I would then pair up shelves by leaning them against each other like little wigwams.

It worked incredibly well.

Initially, I considered using nails but realised that using a cordless to remove screws would be faster and didn't risk a hammer damaging the unpainted face of the shelf.
 

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