Ceramic hob / flaky sparky?

[SJRSJR]

I've used an ELECSA electrican to do the electrics in my new kitchen. I told him where we wanted the electric hob and dishwasher and he put in a double switch socket. I went to look at hobs and saw they all required hardwiring so asked him about it. He said that we hadn't mentioned we were having a hob (we had), but I could get by if I got one that was no more than 3KwH and he could run a spur and fused box from the double socket. Trouble is I can't find one with such as low wattage, and if I did would it cook??

Any views on on how we can do this? Thanks

 

[Steve]

electric hobs with 4 rings are 6kw+. I think you need to get rid of that spark.

 

[SJRSJR]

Thanks, I did wonder...All I'm getting is reasons why things can't be done.

He said I'll have too much on the one ring - double oven, fridge, hob, washing machine, tumble dryer and dishwasher. How do others manage?

It's too late now as all the plastering is done but couldn't he have run a second ring to the consumer unit?

Are the any solutions to this? Do I have any comeback if I have to start again?

 

[JohnD]

A double oven can't go on the ring
An electric hob can't go on the ring (though a gas one can)

Sounds like you need one or (preferably) two cooker circuits which are run back to the consumer unit in a heavier cable and have their own dedicated MCBs.

How did you choose your electrician? Is he familiar with UK wiring practice?

Is he a member of a self-certification scheme?

 

[SJRSJR]

Yes, he's a full scheme member of ELECSA.

He sees to be all over the place - initially he put the tumble dryer and washing machine on a double socket with switch spurs above but just before we plastered he changed his mind and said they would blow if they were on at the same time. So he had me channelling into the plasterboard (he was on another job) to run extra cable so they could be on separate switch spurs.

I've just spoken to him. We will need to run a new cable from one end of the kitchen via a concrete floor (walls are all newly plastered) to the hallway. I'll have to get a new consumer unit as there's no more space.

Can you lay cable in concrete floors and if so what sort of protection will it need? I'll be laying ceramic tiles if it ever gets finished. If I get a new consumer unit what else should we invest in to make it future proof?

Thanks for your advice, I'm learning fast.

 

[Adam_151]

Cables buried underground have to be encased in earthed metal and be deep enough that no expected digging will disturb them (unlikely in a kitchen )

(suppose you could also look at the floor being a building partiton like a wall or ceiling is rather than the ground, I guess)

You are looking at steel conduit, SWA, or MI I guess

If your 'sparky' is a 5 day course DI (domestic installer), then he'll probably struggle to install steel conduit or MI and might just about manage SWA

 

[ColJack]

this is why you should aways get it in writing what it is that you want..

if you had it written that you wanted a ceramic hob then you could make him pay for the remedial work in having to patch the plastering..

asuming you are not painting the walls then your best bet is to chase the plaster and then patch over it..

 

[JohnD]

If he did not know when he started work about not putting two large appliances in a double socket, or about a kitchen needing a cooker circuit, then perhaps he is new to the job and learning as he goes.

I would be inclined to pay off the person you have and find someone better.

Ask around friends and neighbours for a recommended electrician, and have a look at the work he has done. Phone and ask what self-certification scheme he is a member of before asking him to come and quote. In the light of recent experience ask if he is a full member, and how long he has been. There may be some rectification needed.

Draw up a plan of what you need. I would go for:
32A circuit for hob
32A circuit for double oven (might be 20A for now)
20A dedicated radial for freezer (not on RCD)
Lots of double sockets above worktop height
For each current or potential under-counter appliance, a 20A DP switch above the worktop, feeding an unswitched 13A socket beneath.

Some people like to have a dedicated ring for the kitchen sockets, if you have a large kitchen and/or a large ground floor. It should be RCD protected because one day you will drop the kettle lead into water, or poke a knife into the toaster while holding the tap with your other hand.

You might find it useful get some home electrics DIY books out of the library, even though you need a pro to do the kitchen, new circuits and new CU; it will help to be aware of what is required and what is usual so you can draw up a written spec and include all the work you want done..

 

[SJRSJR]

Thank you everyone for your help. I did get a written quote but it didn't state the purpose of the sockets just what they were and where they were going. You live and learn.

Unfortunately any remedy is made more complicated because all this was done prior to the walls being tanked as part of a Damp Proof Course and the company was very specific about not hacking into the plaster and invalidating the guarantee.

Maybe I should now move to the DPC forum to see what they have to say!