Changing pull cord to kinetic WiFi switch

[crtz]

Just replace switch with Pir , far less to go wrong .

I don’t want to have separate pir. I’ve bought an extractor fan that’s smart and has ir sensor, Alexa control etc. Once I have kinetic WiFi switch, I’ll link this together in the app only as an automation and it’ll act as pir - having auto lights and auto fan.

 

[foxhole]

I don’t want to have separate pir. I’ve bought an extractor fan that’s smart and has ir sensor, Alexa control etc. Once I have kinetic WiFi switch, I’ll link this together in the app only as an automation and it’ll act as pir - having auto lights and auto fan.

Seems overcomplicated.

 

[crtz]

Seems overcomplicated.

Might be but that’s what I’m after. WiFi fan allows to monitor humidity, temp and works great right now. I don’t like pull cord so I’d like to change it to WiFi switch that can be controlled on a wall (kinetic) or in automations.

 

[SUNRAY]

I thought my way was simple?

Possibly but having seen a couple of offerings I was starting to get confused

Can you get 2 conductors into 1 slot?

The computer says no

 

[pete01]

Possibly but having seen a couple of offerings I was starting to get confused

The computer says no

Cut the cable going to the light, fit the receiver in the middle, link the switch port, I think, confused myself

 

[SUNRAY]

I need a permanent live. Junction box has power in and out already in use. Shall I just use wagos to tap into it? Doesn’t L1 rely on a permanent feed from JB?

I was also thinking about going by permanent feed from isolator switch for bathroom fan. That had permanent live as it comes to isolator.

Any advice appreciated.

Ah just re-read OP.
If your isolator is 3 pole for L, N, & SL and easy to run a cable to; then a length of 3 core and earth from there to the receiver. BUT that will require additional investigation on how it's been wired beside the Surewire system and how to isolate the existing switch wiring.

Cut the cable going to the light, fit the receiver in the middle, link the switch port, I think, confused myself

Yes that would work, OP's post#13 is effectively the same thing without cutting the existing light cable and easier to restore when the next occupant wants to do away with the confusing automation.

 

[crtz]

Ah just re-read OP.
If your isolator is 3 pole for L, N, & SL and easy to run a cable to; then a length of 3 core and earth from there to the receiver. BUT that will require additional investigation on how it's been wired beside the Surewire system and how to isolate the existing switch wiring.

Yes that would work, OP's post#13 is effectively the same thing without cutting the existing light cable and easier to restore when the next occupant wants to do away with the confusing automation.

So you’re trying to say this would work too? Of course I got l1 confused here.

I did take a look at your diagram and I will try it if I won’t get confirmation that below will work too.

 

[crtz]

So you’re trying to say this would work too? Of course I got l1 confused here.

I did take a look at your diagram and I will try it if I won’t get confirmation that below will work too.

This is what I mean:

 

[SUNRAY]

This is what I mean:

You're starting to get mixed up

The position of L1 and S1 are fixed in the Surewire by the internal electrics in the white strip between the terminals with Line (Live) going to the switch and Neutral to the light and a Switched Linebetween (I hope I have the numerical designations correct in this pic as I cant read any of the markings but have followed the line sketch)

This

is what you are indicating but you will need to add the link in the Surewire which I've shown in purple (just to make it obvious).

Ultimately you will need to connect to L from S1, E from S1 or L1 & N from L1 which your suggestion achieves.

These are electrically the same and any of the 4 versions are acceptable, only 2 require the link wire: