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Checking electric socket if faulty

In this house I have had one faulty socket, The RCBO tripped, and I left it tripped until roof leak fixed, I visually inspected the socket, and could see the plastic at the back deformed, I wish now I had looked at it more carefully and taken pictures, but I didn't it just went in the bin, and new one fitted. I never put my tester on it, and it would seem likely not fault would be found, possibility is an insulation tester would have found the fault. But in real terms, my eyes were good enough to know it was faulty.

But other than that socket, it is rare to find a faulty socket, in the main it is a plug which has failed with the socket, so swapped as a pair, there was a debate about swapping sockets where non BS1363 device has been plugged in, these
1746864080567.png
stupid things for example, technically they could be oversize and often pins are undersized and one has no idea of the damage they could cause, this website blames the covers for this1746864355826.png as to if correct make your own mind up. However, to swap all sockets found with the stupid covers fitted and give the tenant the bill, would seem a little extreme. However, the statement:-
PS those socket testers are not suitable for much tbh
Well in real terms neither is any tester. To test the tension of each of the three sockets, is a problem due to the shutters, and I really have no idea what the tension should be? I am sure there is some British standard, but unless the socket is overheated or silly bits of plastic are shoved in it, they last for years. And 1746865098177.pngthey are so cheap, if not sure, stick a new one in.

If, however, we are looking at the reason an RCD is tripping, this rarely has anything to do with the socket, my example at top is the odd one out. As to checking, we have a number of methods at our disposal. I would be interested in feed back on this, in the early days the RCD tester had a ½ setting, and we would consider if it did not trip on the ½ setting, then it must be OK, the early clamp-on meter Clamp-meter-small.jpg left only has a resolution of 10 mA increments, all well and good saying 30% or 9 mA limit, few could measure 9 mA, however the meter on the right can measure in 1 mA increments, so today we can check the background leakage. Before these meters dropping to a reasonable price, I paid £35 for mine, the other option was the insulation tester VC60B.jpg in some cases where the RCD will not reset, the only way to test, but it has some problems, one it uses DC, so will not detect capacitive or inductive linking, it can cause damage on the 500 volt range, so care is needed, and any surge protection devices can show as a near short circuit, at 250 volts not so much of a problem, and the price has dropped, again I got mine for £35, but they are good for testing the appliance without even plugging it in, measuring neutral to earth (not line as often relays and switches in the line supply) and so easy, clip on the wires, press the button, and if below 1MΩ declare it as faulty.

A PAT testing machine would do the same, but they are a bit expensive. What you as the landlord want, is some way to test in front of the tenant and say, sorry that item is faults, it needs to be repaired before use, and I want to see the PAT test report before used again.

But because we are looking at the price of the testers, it is often cheaper to just employ an electrician then no arguments over what is actually wrong.
 
Yes I did consider that and I thought perhaps Murdochat did too ...
Yes, that's what I was suspecting. It did not seem (to me) that there was anything remarkable about an issue having been reported to landlord on 11th April (2025) that would stimuate a question about the up-to-datedness of the EICR!
I think that many of us would describe a date in a different, more certain way, but some might describe it in a similar way.
True, but hopefully most people consider context (as I did in this case).

Even though it is 'back to front' in terms of UK conventions, I would imagine that most people (throughout the world) understand what "9/11" now signifies. Because of those UK conventions, some may think it means "9th November", but I doubt whether (m)any think that it relates to something which happened in 2011 ?

Kind Regards, John
 
I imagine they all do. In fact, no matter what test equipment one has, detecting a 'reversed earth and neutral' is far from a trivial exercise, and is probably impossible 'at a socket'.

Likely, the only way, beyond physically checking, would be to check for voltage difference between the suspect neutral and the neutral at the consumer unit.
 
Likely, the only way, beyond physically checking, would be to check for voltage difference between the suspect neutral and the neutral at the consumer unit.
Once one opens the CU, there are all sorts of ways one can do it but, as I said, I can't think of a reliable way one could detect a N-E reversal by only looking/doing things at the location of the socket, no matter what test equipment one had. It's particularly problematical with TN-C-S, since N & E are then explicitly connected at the origin of the installation.

Having said that, I suppose that if the circuit were highly loaded, so that there was an appreciable voltage drop in the (true) N conductor, then the L-N (TRUE N) voltage at the socket would be less than the L-E (true E), but I'm not sure that the difference would be big enough to give one a reliable/trustworthy indication of reversal.
 
Perhaps you could have a lengthy discussion on what the hell that means.
From the numerous other threads of the OP, it appears their tenants left a washing machine outside for a time, so it got wet/rained on etc. and then moved it back inside to use it.

The rest are about dodgy DIY repairs to one or more properties, at least one of which is rented to one or more tenants, and all have the recurring theme of asking questions with the expectation of certain answers, then claiming to have 'forgotten' to include obviously vital information when people reply, swiftly followed by the discussion ending as they didn't get the answers they wanted.

There is also a sub-plot where they ask for advice on installing items, receive that advice, then ignore it and return after a time to enquire why the installation they now have doesn't work properly.
 
Having said that, I suppose that if the circuit were highly loaded, so that there was an appreciable voltage drop in the (true) N conductor, then the L-N (TRUE N) voltage at the socket would be less than the L-E (true E)
And if there was a large load on a different phase, or there was distributed generation equipment pushing power "backwards" then the L-N voltage may be higher than the L-E voltage.

Similarly in a system wired in T&E with no paralell paths the L-E loop impedance is likely to be higher than the L-N loop impedance, but the opposite could be true in a steel industrial building wired in steel conduit with full sized CPCs and paralell paths everywhere.

Ultimately there are lots of contextual cues that may indicate a N-E reversal, but nothing reliable/context insensitive enough to put into an automatic tester.
 
And if there was a large load on a different phase, or there was distributed generation equipment pushing power "backwards" then the L-N voltage may be higher than the L-E voltage.
True.
Similarly in a system wired in T&E with no paralell paths the L-E loop impedance is likely to be higher than the L-N loop impedance, but the opposite could be true in a steel industrial building wired in steel conduit with full sized CPCs and paralell paths everywhere.
Indeed - I thought of that one, but decided that there were too many potential scenarios, such as you mention, for it to mislead.
Ultimately there are lots of contextual cues that may indicate a N-E reversal, but nothing reliable/context insensitive enough to put into an automatic tester.
Indeed - and, as I said, I'm not sure that the situation improves much no matter what test equipment one has. One of the few things one could rely on would be a continuity test from one end of the alleged N conductor to the other (and, even then, I can think of some possible 'problems'!).
 
Why do I need to answer your question? MYOB
Because you came here for help.
And qualified people are prepared to give up their spare time to offer their advice.
Why wouldn't you want to answer questions?

Just get an electrician in and make sure your tenant is safe.
 

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