Connecting a new single oven

[lasto]

Hello - I've bought a new oven and made the amateur error of hoping that it would be a simple job of disconnecting the old one and reconnecting the cable to the new one. Wrong.

The existing cable is huge! The new oven is a Beko single oven (OIF21300B) with much smaller terminal connections than the old one. Every single part of the existing cable is much too thick to fit, making it impossible to screw the live or neutral cables into place.

I've already fitted the exact same oven at my sister's home, however that was not hardwired, instead being plugged into its own socket with 'normal' size electrical wires.

Any ideas as to how I can work around the thick cable and make it fit my new oven?

Many thanks, Sarah

 

[Taylortwocities]

That oven is 2.3KW, so you can use a piece of heat resistant flex (minimum 1.5mm²) and put a 13amp fused plug on the end of the flex.

Change the connection point on the wall to an unswitched 13A socket and you are done!.

*** To the tekkies on this forum, I am simplifying the details from BEKO's product instructions. ***
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/352040/Beko-Oif21300.html?page=6#manual

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Is the cable twin & earth? What size? //www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:flatpvccables

What is the rating of the oven (in Watts or kW, not kWh)?

What is the rating of the circuit?

 

[deadshort]

That oven is 2.3KW, so you can use a piece of heat resistant flex (minimum 1.5mm²) and put a 13amp fused plug on the end of the flex.

Change the connection point on the wall to an unswitched 13A socket and you are done!.

*** To the tekkies on this forum, I am simplifying the details from BEKO's product instructions. ***
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/352040/Beko-Oif21300.html?page=6#manual[/QUOTE]

I AGREE WITH TTC

 

[lasto]

Cheers TTC - The existing cooker switch is a double one, one side supplying the cooker and a 'normal' three-pin socket as its neighbour. Instead of fitting a plug as you suggest, and therefore having to change the socket plate, would it be feasible and safe for me to connect the 1.5mm sq cable to the cooker switch?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Use existing outlet plate, install 1.5mm heat resistant flex between outlet and appliance. If breaker at board exceeds that of the current capacity of 1.5mm flex, change the breaker/fuse to one which does not but allow enough current for the demand of the appliance. Generally 16A, but check the MI.

 

[JohnW2]

If breaker at board exceeds that of the current capacity of 1.5mm flex, change the breaker/fuse to one which does not but allow enough current for the demand of the appliance. Generally 16A, but check the MI.

It might be worth adding that some (many?) would not feel that changing the breaker was necessary, particularly given that it would often change a DIY job into a non-DIY one - many DIYers would be happy and competent to connect the oven, but not to opening up a CU and changing the breaker.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Taylortwocities]

If breaker at board exceeds that of the current capacity of 1.5mm flex, change the breaker/fuse to one which does not but allow enough current for the demand of the appliance. Generally 16A, but check the MI.

The MI (see my link) says "Fuse Protection Min. 13A"

So, yes you could wire it direct into your existing cooker point.
Note it also says the maximum length of the connecting wire is 2 metres.

Mind you, in the installation part it also says it must only be installed by a qualified electrician - so you pays your money and you takes your choice on which of the MIs you want to comply with….

 

[JohnW2]

If breaker at board exceeds that of the current capacity of 1.5mm flex, change the breaker/fuse to one which does not but allow enough current for the demand of the appliance. Generally 16A, but check the MI.

The MI (see my link) says "Fuse Protection Min. 13A" ... So, yes you could wire it direct into your existing cooker point.

I presume that PBoD's concern was not with the MIs but, rather, with the over-current protection of the 1.5mm² flex. However, as I pointed out, since an oven is (very) unlikely to create an overload, at least some of us would be perfectly happy for the rating of the breaker to be appreciably higher than the current-carrying-capacity of that flex - particularly if that view avoided the need for a DIYer to 'mess about in a CU'.

Kind Regards, John

 

[lasto]

I presume that PBoD's concern was not with the MIs but, rather, with the over-current protection of the 1.5mm² flex.

I was going to ask about that - you're all too good! I'd certainly look for an electrician before I dared to touch the breaker box.

Next dumb question - where do I find 2 core, heat resistant, 1.5mm² cable? B&Q look to only have the 3-core variety, not seeing anything other than industrial quantities from other bricks-and-mortar places either. Plenty online but I'd rather not wait until Friday.

 

[EFLImpudence]

You need 3 core.

 

[lasto]

You need 3 core.

Is the cable twin & earth? What size? //www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:flatpvccables[/QUOTE]


From the link ban-all-sheds included, it states that the cable already in place is not three core - only a red, black and earth wire?

 

[JohnW2]

From the link ban-all-sheds included, it states that the cable already in place is not three core - only a red, black and earth wire?

Yes, but if you're using flex, the third core (green/yellow) will be the earth - and you need an earth. It will also have brown and blue, corresponding to the red and black respectively in your old (large) cable.

Kind Regards, John

 

[lasto]

Thanks John - so would this fit the bill? 5 metres would be perfect, long enough for me to connect it all in comfort.

http://www.diy.com/departments/towe...t-cable-240v-16a-3-core-15mm-5m/188938_BQ.prd

 

[deadshort]

Hi, can you just confirm a few things please ?

Is you existing cooker supply on a 32a circuit breaker ?

Do you have a cooker connection plate behind the original cooker or does the cable come directly out of the cooker switch.

Thanks,

DS