Cooker Wiring

[smiffy71]

Hello,

I am new to this forum, and am in need of some help.

Firstly, we have moved into a house that has been "done up", personally I reckon some fella watched a few to many Homes Under The Hammer and thought he would have a go, but still, we have a cooker with a separate control unit which is on its own wiring and has a specific fuse in the brand new Consumer Unit which we had to have replaced. From that Consumer Unit there is a Cooker Control Unit, which then has a couple of feet of wiring to a double plug and socket which has our separate hob and oven plugged into the 2 sockets (one socket each). This cooker and hob are not sufficient for our needs and we have a double oven with hob sat in the garage which we want to use. My question to you (finally) is, is it possible to wire up our double oven with a 13amp plug on it and plug it in, or will it have to be hardwired into the cabling coming from the control unit, i.e. replace the 2 13 amp sockets with a blanking plate and have the cable coming out, sorry it is so long.

Cheers

Smiffy

 

[kevindgas]

it all depends on the cable from the consumer unit to the back of the cooker and the output of the oven

what size cable is fitted? what Mcb is fitted?
a make and modelfor the oven would help us to help you or at least an output (look for a badge on back or in the door opening it will have either watts or KW

 

[smiffy71]

The hob has just a normal flex on it with a 13amp plug on the end. The cooker cable is white and round and is thicker, maybe 5 or 6mm in diameter.

The cooker that is going to be used is a Creda C366E.

The cooker goes into the consumer unit via the current 13amp plus the consumer unit is a brand new hager, the fuse connected to it in the hager box has MTN132 B32 written on it

The cooker output is

Energy Output
Maximum Cooktop Element Wattage: 1800 Watts
Minimum Cooktop Element Wattage: 1200 Watts

this was taken from Here



If I find anything else I will post it


Cheers

Smiffy

 

[Taylortwocities]

Its designed to work off a standard 13A plug. 1800watts is well within the limits.

I never saw a double oven and electric hob that's rated at only 1800watts. Do check the rating plate on the cooker, doesnt sound right to me...but I could be wrong (yes i could).

One other thing. How thick is the wire from the cooker control unit to the double socket? It should be 6mm - the same size as the cable coming from the consumer unit to the CCU. do check that.

 

[kevindgas]

Its designed to work off a standard 13A plug.

ACTUALLY ITS NOT IT REQUIRES A 6MM minimum cable size 2.5 is the max for a 13amp plug

I never saw a double oven and electric hob that's rated at only 1800watts. Do check the rating plate on the cooker, doesnt sound right to me...but I could be wrong (yes i could).

i agree the rating for the hob is 5700 watts ! just 1 of the rings is 2000watts

One other thing. How thick is the wire from the cooker control unit to the double socket? It should be 6mm - the same size as the cable coming from the consumer unit to the CCU. do check that.

it is 6mm minimum as per hotpoints installation guide

the MCB in your consumer unit is 32Amp type B (B32) this is the minimum for the cooker with the hob as well i would change it to a 40amp (B40)

you need to check that the cable from the consumer unit to the cooker connection point is adequate i would expect it to be 10mm if it isn't get a sparks to quote for doing the whole job

 

[smiffy71]

Hello,

Thank you all very much for your help. I went and got a Cooker Switch from Focus it was rated 45Amps. The existing cable on the cooker was 10mm in diameter, containing the Earth, Live and Neutral. I hooked the cooker switch into the existing box with the 10mm cable coming out of the wall, so there was nothing exposed. This then went to the cooker. We turned it on, and the clock worked, the oven was then tested, and then the four rings were put on maximum for around 30 seconds and all was well. Is there any further testing I can do, or any othe recommendations, I will take the note about the higher fuse and see about getting one of them.

Thank you all very much for your help.

Cheers

Smiffy

 

[Taylortwocities]

Kevin, you have the benefit of the installation guide. All I had was its rated as 18oowatts and has a plug on the end of the lead. If the IG says 6mm then that's the deal.

However

the MCB in your consumer unit is 32Amp type B (B32) this is the minimum for the cooker with the hob as well i would change it to a 40amp (B40)

You should not give that advice. Suppose the cable is 6mm (he has checked the diameter of the cable, not the CSA of the conductors).
You do not know the routing of the cable. 6mm may support 32A if clipped direct to backgrounds, but it may run thru insulation or high ambient temps, and in that case 32A may be the max.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

we have a cooker with a separate control unit which is on its own wiring and has a specific fuse in the brand new Consumer Unit which we had to have replaced.

What was replaced - the brand new CU or the fuse?

Why?

From that Consumer Unit there is a Cooker Control Unit, which then has a couple of feet of wiring to a double plug and socket which has our separate hob and oven plugged into the 2 sockets (one socket each).

The hob is plugged in?

Please tell us it's a gas hob....

This cooker and hob are not sufficient for our needs and we have a double oven with hob sat in the garage which we want to use.

But that's just a normal 60cm wide cooker - how is that going to be better? Are you planning to use that as well as the ones you already have installed?

My question to you (finally) is, is it possible to wire up our double oven with a 13amp plug on it and plug it in,

Surely there's only one connection for the whole appliance, not separate ones for the hob and the ovens?

or will it have to be hardwired into the cabling coming from the control unit, i.e. replace the 2 13 amp sockets with a blanking plate and have the cable coming out, sorry it is so long.

Not a blanking plate - a cooker outlet plate.

The hob has just a normal flex on it with a 13amp plug on the end.

Have you actually opened up the plug and looked inside?

The cooker output is

Energy Output
Maximum Cooktop Element Wattage: 1800 Watts
Minimum Cooktop Element Wattage: 1200 Watts

That's per element - there are 4 of them.

There is absolutely no way that you're going to be able to plug this cooker in.

this was taken from Here

[digress]Since when was a regular 60cm cooker a "Range Cooker"? [/digress]

 

[smiffy71]

smiffy71 wrote:
we have a cooker with a separate control unit which is on its own wiring and has a specific fuse in the brand new Consumer Unit which we had to have replaced.

What was replaced - the brand new CU or the fuse?

The CU

Why?

Because the old one was the oldest thing the electrician had ever seen, the Electricity supply company also had to come out and fit a new larger fuse. He (the electrician) could not touch anything without first changing the CU

Quote:
From that Consumer Unit there is a Cooker Control Unit, which then has a couple of feet of wiring to a double plug and socket which has our separate hob and oven plugged into the 2 sockets (one socket each).

The hob is plugged in?

Please tell us it's a gas hob....

It was not a gas hob, it was an electric hob, plugged in with a 13 Amp plug, please be aware I did not do that bit


Quote:
This cooker and hob are not sufficient for our needs and we have a double oven with hob sat in the garage which we want to use.

But that's just a normal 60cm wide cooker - how is that going to be better? Are you planning to use that as well as the ones you already have installed?

The single oven and separate hob were removed and replaced with a double oven with hob on top, all one unit a Creda C366E


Quote:
My question to you (finally) is, is it possible to wire up our double oven with a 13amp plug on it and plug it in,

Surely there's only one connection for the whole appliance, not separate ones for the hob and the ovens?

On the old connection there was a double plug, (coming from the large cooker switch), with 2 plugs in it, one to the oven and one to the hob. This has now been replaced with a single oven with hob on top, but it has now got another cooker switch where the 2 sockets were


Quote:
or will it have to be hardwired into the cabling coming from the control unit, i.e. replace the 2 13 amp sockets with a blanking plate and have the cable coming out, sorry it is so long.

Not a blanking plate - a cooker outlet plate.

Instead of a cooker outlet plate I wired it into a 2 Gang 45A DP Cooker Switch Socket


smiffy71 wrote:
The hob has just a normal flex on it with a 13amp plug on the end.

Have you actually opened up the plug and looked inside?

Yes and it was just a normal 13A Plug


Quote:
The cooker output is

Energy Output
Maximum Cooktop Element Wattage: 1800 Watts
Minimum Cooktop Element Wattage: 1200 Watts

That's per element - there are 4 of them.

There is absolutely no way that you're going to be able to plug this cooker in.


Quote:
this was taken from Here

[digress]Since when was a regular 60cm cooker a "Range Cooker"? icon_rolleyes.gif icon_rolleyes.gif icon_rolleyes.gif [/digress]


What I now have is a cooker ring main, with a cooker switch, this then goes to another cooker switch, which then leads to the cooker which is a double oven with integral hob all wired in with 10mm cable from cooker to cooker switch

 

[sparkyspike]

You say you have 10mm diameter cooker circuit cable. Have you measured this, or do you know that it is 10mm cable? Because cable isn't identified by its diameter but by its cross-sectional area (csa).

 

[ban-all-sheds]

smiffy - please use this:

- it's what it's there for, just copying & pasting doesn't work.

It was not a gas hob, it was an electric hob, plugged in with a 13 Amp plug, please be aware I did not do that bit

I hope your electrician did a full inspection of your entire installation - anybody who did something as stupid as that could have done almost anything...

On the old connection there was a double plug, (coming from the large cooker switch), with 2 plugs in it, one to the oven and one to the hob.

That's because you used to have two appliances - hob & oven. Now you have one appliance - the cooker. So talk of connecting the oven section of your cooker to a plug must be nonsense.

This has now been replaced with a single oven with hob on top, but it has now got another cooker switch where the 2 sockets were

Another cooker switch? Why did you want another one?

Instead of a cooker outlet plate I wired it into a 2 Gang 45A DP Cooker Switch Socket

So how/where does the wiring for the cooker exit the wall?

What I now have is a cooker ring main,

No you don't.

with a cooker switch, this then goes to another cooker switch,

Please get your electrician back.

all wired in with 10mm cable from cooker to cooker switch

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:flatpvccables

 

[kevindgas]

Kevin, you have the benefit of the installation guide. All I had was its rated as 18oowatts and has a plug on the end of the lead. If the IG says 6mm then that's the deal.

However

the MCB in your consumer unit is 32Amp type B (B32) this is the minimum for the cooker with the hob as well i would change it to a 40amp (B40)

You should not give that advice. Suppose the cable is 6mm (he has checked the diameter of the cable, not the CSA of the conductors).
You do not know the routing of the cable. 6mm may support 32A if clipped direct to backgrounds, but it may run thru insulation or high ambient temps, and in that case 32A may be the max.

YES i had the benefit of the install manual as anyone could have if they had looked it up
as for your cable comment try reading what i said as you have omitted the last TWO LINES !!
in which i correctly said CHECK THE CABLE!

 

[smiffy71]

This is what it looks like

Untitled

• smiffy71
• 22 Feb 2009
• 2

I think I will go get a cooker outlet plate and some new cable though. I also intend getting the electrician to have a look.

 

[RF Lighting]

That'll be really useful when you need to switch the cooker off in an emergency

 

[smiffy71]

How so?