couple questions about new oven fitting

[charliebean]

Have a new inbuilt single-oven arriving tomorrow. The old one is seven year's old and came with the house - a new build - when it was built. It has a plug fitted to it, which goes into a dedicated plug socket behind the oven space. There is an isolating switch above the counter, and the oven is on its own circuit at the fuse box.

Is it ok to fit a plug to the new oven and connect it the same way? And assuming the new one does not come with a new cable and plug, can I resuse the current one if it is the same spec and in good condition?

The online manual for the single oven I have bought says "Connect the product to a grounded outlet/line protected by a fuse of suitable capacity as stated in the Technical Specifications table."

The Technical Specifications table says its total power consumption is 2.5kW and it needs a min. 13 A fuse. Cable needs to be H05VV-FG 3 X 1.5mm2 or equivalent (this is presumably a cable specific to the job: heat resistant and whatever else).

Thanks

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes, you can use a plug - and the same cable assuming it was correct originally.

Of course with a plug the 13A fuse will be a maximum as well as a minimum.

 

[charliebean]

Yes, you can use a plug - and the same cable assuming it was correct originally.

Of course with a plug the 13A fuse will be a maximum as well as a minimum.

Thanks, that was very helpful and I appreciate it.

Took the old oven out and looking at the cable there is no coding on it to tell me what spec it is. I am guessing therefore, that it is just a standard cable. So looks likely that I will have to go out and buy some appropriate cable tomorrow. I have a Wickes, B&Q and Screwfix nearbywhich all sell heat-resistant cable, but not sure if that would be adequate or not?

 

[Taylortwocities]

I have a Wickes, B&Q and Screwfix nearbywhich all sell heat-resistant cable, but not sure if that would be adequate or not?

Sure, if it meets the spec. You'll probably find shorter lengths at B&Q, Wickes etc. Although Screwfix do some in 5metre lengths

For example

 

[riveralt]

Have a new inbuilt single-oven arriving tomorrow.

Is it ok to fit a plug to the new oven and connect it the same way? And assuming the new one does not come with a new cable and plug, can I resuse the current one if it is the same spec and in good condition?

The online manual for the single oven I have bought says "Connect the product to a grounded outlet/line protected by a fuse of suitable capacity as stated in the Technical Specifications table."

If it sold in the EU and it is intended to be connected to a socket then it must come with a plug and suitable cable already attached.
If it does not then ask then why - it is the law.

 

[JohnW2]

The online manual for the single oven I have bought says "Connect the product to a grounded outlet/line protected by a fuse of suitable capacity as stated in the Technical Specifications table."

If it sold in the EU and it is intended to be connected to a socket then it must come with a plug and suitable cable already attached. If it does not then ask then why - it is the law.

That's true but presumably there is a potential issue as to the meaning of "intended". As above, the MIs indicate that it should be connected to 'an outlet' (I presume a socket, into which a plug is inserted) OR 'a line' (which I presume means 'hard-wired'). I suspect that that choice of 'intentions' might let them off the legal hook of being required to supply it with cable and fitting plug, mightn't it?

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I wonder why the instructions use US terminology?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Cable needs to be H05VV-FG 3 X 1.5mm2 or equivalent (this is presumably a cable specific to the job: heat resistant and whatever else).

//www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:harmonized-wire-code

 

[charliebean]

Cable needs to be H05VV-FG 3 X 1.5mm2 or equivalent (this is presumably a cable specific to the job: heat resistant and whatever else).

//www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:harmonized-wire-code

That is really handy, thank you.
Looking closer on the old cable it does have a code - bbj har h05vv-f tfk4 BASEC H

 

[charliebean]

New oven didn't fit. Gas pipe for hob in the way. Looking for alternative - a boschlooks good fit but has a 16W fuse so presumably would need hardwiring. It is 2.9kWs.

Is it ok to do this myself, and if so what do I need to pick up from a shed?

 

[securespark]

16A I guess?

Why, if the load is just shy of 3kW?

 

[Iggifer]

Get a gas man in to move the pipe?

 

[charliebean]

16A I guess?

Why, if the load is just shy of 3kW?

Yes, I meant 16 amps of course. I thought anything under 3.1kW could use a plug, so not sure why it's 16A either. Just bought it and the manual is clear it must not use a socket and 13A fuse in the UK, so at least that is clear.

R.e. The gas pipes, moving them would have been an option but only to lessen the recess needed in the oven, no way to move completely out the way without changing hob. Decided easier and cheaper, to just buy a oven with a bigger recess. Of course, may have to outlay anyway for an electrician now.

 

[riveralt]

Yes, I meant 16 amps of course. I thought anything under 3.1kW could use a plug, so not sure why it's 16A either. Just bought it and the manual is clear it must not use a socket and 13A fuse in the UK, so at least that is clear............ Of course, may have to outlay anyway for an electrician now.

If you want to complete the install yourself then you first need to understand how the circuit currently operates and how to ensure and test that the circuit is dead before you start changing things.
From your comments it sounds as if you have a dedicated cooker circuit. One assumes, but you should check, that the circuit starts at the Consumer Unit - possibly 32A MCB protection - does it also have RCD protection?
From the CU and MCB 4 or 6mm² T&E to the Cooker Switch and then suitably sized cable from the Cooker Switch to the single socket.
If you intend to connect your new oven to the socket then you will need to change the socket and possibly the backbox for a cooker connection unit and connect the oven cable to that.
However if the socket is a double socket and is also used for your gas hob ignition then you
it becomes a little more complicated.
If all this seems a little too much then as you have already recognised you may need to call on the services of an electrician.

 

[charliebean]

Yes, I meant 16 amps of course. I thought anything under 3.1kW could use a plug, so not sure why it's 16A either. Just bought it and the manual is clear it must not use a socket and 13A fuse in the UK, so at least that is clear............ Of course, may have to outlay anyway for an electrician now.

If you want to complete the install yourself then you first need to understand how the circuit currently operates and how to ensure and test that the circuit is dead before you start changing things.
From your comments it sounds as if you have a dedicated cooker circuit. One assumes, but you should check, that the circuit starts at the Consumer Unit - possibly 32A MCB protection - does it also have RCD protection?
From the CU and MCB 4 or 6mm² T&E to the Cooker Switch and then suitably sized cable from the Cooker Switch to the single socket.
If you intend to connect your new oven to the socket then you will need to change the socket and possibly the backbox for a cooker connection unit and connect the oven cable to that.
However if the socket is a double socket and is also used for your gas hob ignition then you
it becomes a little more complicated.
If all this seems a little too much then as you have already recognised you may need to call on the services of an electrician.

You picked up on something I haven't said yet but which I was about to mention, which is that the hob (gas hob, but the ignition, as you guessed) is on the same double plug socket. So, presumably changing the socket to a CCU will mean changing the hob connection also.

The oven is on it's own circuit with a 32A MCB at the main fuse box and is not RCD protected. I haven't checked the size of the cables yet - I could, and might - but whether I do depends on the options I have for changing the double socket; if a solution is possible that is within my ability then great, but if not then I won't attempt it myself. Presumably there must be double CCUs that can be fitted?