DeWalt DW321K: I can't even cut a Straight line ...

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Is there a way to adjust the right-angled-ness of a DeWalt Jig Saw that just won't mount a blade straight? I even made a Jig that forces the shoe to run straight between two strips of wood, and the blade jumps off the orbital support (which is turned off) and wanders away from center ....

I've been told they will replace my 321 with the DW331K ... but it's reviews on amazon.com are similar ...

What would you do?
 
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Scrit
 
Crabs ... that's a good term for it.

I've decided to try the later version: DW331K.

Hopefully it won't have the crabs, too ...

Tools: Irritating when they don't work ...
 
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A good quality blade is as important as the saw.
A blade, blunted one side more than the other, will wander off irrespective of the saw you use.

For an important cut, use a new blade.
 
I just received a replacement saw ... a DW331K in lieu of the DW321K. With the blade they sent with it, it cuts a very straight line (given my parallel railed jig I made for such a purpose). The blade clamping device is completely different, and with a little practice getting the blade positioned correctly, seems to work very well.

Now the question arises: is one brand T-Shank blade thicker than another, giving more stability in thick cuts?

Curious if anyone has compared Bosch to DeWalt. Bosch appears to be thicker (through the packaging).

Other T-Shank blade comparisons?
 
... one of the one's they sent ... Has markings "116-2 HCS" Precision WOOD and it is twice as thick as the ones in a DeWalt 5 Pack of T-Shanks (DW3795H pack).

So ... I need to shop around for a rigid blade.

I really liked the Craftsman Sabre Saw I had as a child ... allen wrench on front and side tightened the blade ... stored in a rubber claw on the power cord ...

Cut straight and nice curved lines .... worked great until the cast aluminum handle finally broke ... after putting it back (with "brazing?"), it finally started spitting sparks and ...
 

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