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Dimplex storage heater struggle

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by CptCornflake, 18 Nov 2019.

  1. CptCornflake

    CptCornflake

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    Morning guys,
    I'm hoping that one of you may be able to shed a bit of light on this for me please. I have searched the forum and although there are one or two similar complaints, I haven't found an answer that fixes the issue.

    I have a Dimplex XLS18N Series B that just doesn't charge. It was fitted new about 5 years ago and has been working fine up until recently. The rest of the storage heaters throughout the property are charging fine. The consumer unit is fine and doesn't trip. The switched fuse that feeds the heater is fine and works as it should. I have gone through the circuit as best I can, I'm no electrician, which will soon become apparent through my bodging technique that follows :)

    I started to test the continuity through the heater and soon noticed that the thermal cut out is goosed (Pic below ) I have no experience with these and I could be wrong here but I would have assumed that the contact would have blown (or tripped) the right had side (in the pic) but its the left hand side where contact is not being made.

    [​IMG]

    Either way its gone.

    This is where my bodging began, I tried bridging the circuit with a standard 15amp car fuse (I know, I know) but I just wanted to see if it would charge or at least blow so I knew I was on the right track.
    I checked continuity and everything looked good, elements read 23.7 Ohms through each (3 elements, 75 watt heater, close enough to me). From the live feed through the bodged fuse and then through the thermostat control I'm getting 0.8 ohms.

    [​IMG]

    I have taken the thermostat control off and warmed it up in the oven a little then tested it to see if it was cutting on and off as it should as it was cooling down, its fine and works as should. Everything through the heater looks fine (one pic below showing the element reading but all read the same)

    [​IMG]

    Everything looks fine from the consumer unit, all the other heaters charge, the switched fuse looks as it should (fuse checked) elements look fine, thermostat works fine, it just doesn't charge.
    Would my bodge with the auto fuse stop it from charging even though I'm getting continuity through it ? I have left it for an evening and it hasn't blown either fuse and hasn't tripped at the consumer unit nor has it charged when all the others have.
    Admittedly I haven't tested if its getting power to the heater as it only kicks in late evening.

    Am I missing something before I put a late night in ?

    Any help or advise would be massively appreciated.

    Owen.
     
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  3. ericmark

    ericmark

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    Your reading do not make sense. Ohms law V²/W = Ω so you say 75 watt heater so 230²/750 = 705Ω. Even if typo and 750 watt then 70.5Ω so three elements = 23.5Ω.

    So your 23.7Ω would draw around 9.7 amp, your 8Ω would draw 28 amp.

    So it would seem your 23.5Ω is about right for a storage heater all three elements, not each.
     
  4. CptCornflake

    CptCornflake

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    I didn't remove the elements from the heater to test, I just stuck my multimeter on the terminals of one element with all the other elements still in place so what your saying makes sense, I just assumed it would measure from point A through the element to point B. as I mentioned I'm no electrician so please forgive me and my misunderstanding of Ohms law. It was a typo and its 750 watt.

    Owen
     
  5. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    Error. Failed to see Wattage of heater.
     
    Last edited: 18 Nov 2019
  6. gman76

    gman76

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    What do you get if you measure the resistance of the entire heater at the isolator (with it switched off) when the thermostat is calling for heat?

    BTW - your meter needs a new battery.
     
  7. CptCornflake

    CptCornflake

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    At this point
    [​IMG]


    23.4 Ohms
    [​IMG]
     
  8. gman76

    gman76

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    Ah, ok - I've just re-read the posts, with you now.

    I think you'll need to stay up late to do some live testing. Or replace the isolator switch with a socket, plug in a mechanical timeswitch & see if it has moved on a few hours by the morning?
     
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  10. CptCornflake

    CptCornflake

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    Top tip with the socket / timer, Ill give that a whirl Thank you
     
  11. crystal ball

    crystal ball

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    Have you tested the isolator switch?
     
  12. CptCornflake

    CptCornflake

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    I tested from the live feed into the isolator to the input terminal on the heater and it was fine, switched the isolator to off and that broke the circuit as it should.

    Im waiting on the new thermal fuse to rock up, I will remove my auto fuse bodge and install the proper part, I will replace the isolator switch with a new LED one and then take it from there.

    I may have to call in the professionals after that ;).
     
  13. gman76

    gman76

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    Did you check the neutral continuity through the switch too? The isolator should be double pole.
     
  14. crystal ball

    crystal ball

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    My thoughts too
     
  15. CptCornflake

    CptCornflake

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    No I didn't to be honest, Im back tomorrow with the new bits waiting for me. Ill check it and swap out the bits and bobs.

    Thanks guys
     
  16. DIYnot Local

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