Do timber fascia boards add structural strength to the roof

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Not sure if this was a roofing or general building question but here goes. I need to redo my old timber fascia boards and want to know if they can be removed and replaced with UPVC or if they add structural strength then should they just be over clad. I want a maintenance free option so just making good a decorating the existing is not an issue even though they are in reasonable condition.
 
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not a builder, but i have had the fascia boards removed and replaced on 3 houses sofar with plastic
on the bungalow , we had a few roof timbers replaced where the ends where rotten
one company wanted/insisted that overclad would be fine, and so while they where here, i put my finger through the rotten facias and said no you can't overclad, and suggested they may as well leave........
BUT i'm only a DIYer , so wait for an experinaced builder to answer
 
To strip and renew will be minimum 18mm fascia.
Overclad to sound rot free board 9mm.
 
As long as there are no signs of rotting wood then your good to go with a plastic cap over. If there are small signs or rotten wood this can be chased out and replaced and clad over. However if it’s rotten in various places then a complete ripoff will be needed. If you can afford to do the full ripoff and replace that’s the perfect scenario.
 
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I am after the best possible job so will go with a rip off and replace, just didnt want to lose any stability in the roof structure by removing teh timber and replacing with UPVC which i assume is not a strong as teh timber.
 
Its not structural, the fascia is to close off the rafter tails and hold the gutter brackets if required.
 
Your making the right choice. Just make sure the company employed to do the job use quality products like Kestral or Gap. Hope this helps.
 
Its not structural
Not especially, but it does hold up the bottom course of tiles.
I am after the best possible job so will go with a rip off and replace,
You will need to remove the bottom course of tiles. It may be wise to remove more, whilst you are at it and renew the felt if rotten and deal with the eaves drip.
 
Ideally the right way would be the last three 3 course of tile then you know exactly what your dealing with to complete a proper job.
 
we had gutter trays added all round, and they went back 10 tiles as there was no insulation on the barrell section of the roof, made a huge difference to the warmth of the bungalow.
But as mentioned do check out the trades you get, we had some real cowboys come and quote as mentioned

make sure you have the detail in the quote ,so you don't to get any surprises. Our builder took the time and went through all the detail, and priced separately , so i had a idea if things did not go to plan, like rotten rafter ends, replacing leading , coping tiles , so i knew exactly what it would cost me.
 
Excellent advice, most reputable companies will arrive on site to quote with there own style check list so they don’t miss anything.
 
Thanks for all the advise. We are planning to have the roof re tiled at the same time. Are there any items i should consider including in this work that may not be obvious so that the roof through to fascias and gutters is fully up to scratch
 
Things I would consider,
replacement tiles and are they the same colour , type
Refelt the roof
Ventilation
Insulation
Fixing, if a windy place, you may want to make sure they are going to fix more rows of tiles
All leading is going to be done properly and mortared in NOT just using the Sticky stuff around chimneys , gulleys , joins etc
Water tank is it galvanised , maybe opportunity to replace
the devil is in the detail
 
Not the best photo but all i have on me

roof.jpg
 

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