Double Socket
- Thread starter Barter78
- Start date
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Loose connection at or inside the socket caused overheating.
The front of the socket also has a massive crack in it.
New socket required, and the burnt/overheated wire will need to be cut away. If there is no slack in the cable, it will need to be extended.
The front of the socket also has a massive crack in it.
New socket required, and the burnt/overheated wire will need to be cut away. If there is no slack in the cable, it will need to be extended.
Thank You Mate
Yes the wire was loose and there is enough wire, I’m no electrician but would you think it’s ok for me to cut off the burnt part and put a new socket on or is there a need for a electrician to do further checks….
Thanks again - I was sitting here eagerly waiting for a response …
Yes the wire was loose and there is enough wire, I’m no electrician but would you think it’s ok for me to cut off the burnt part and put a new socket on or is there a need for a electrician to do further checks….
Thanks again - I was sitting here eagerly waiting for a response …
It all depends how competent you are to do this work.
Once you have cut the burnt part of the wire off, it will need extending, almost certainly with 2.5mm2 cable.
Once you have stripped the end of the old wire, ensure the copper is clean, and not all black.
You will need a 15amp connector block or wago suitable for 2.5mm2 cable.
The ends of the wires that go to the socket should be doubled over, to ensure a good contact.
If you're not confident, get an electrician.
Once you have cut the burnt part of the wire off, it will need extending, almost certainly with 2.5mm2 cable.
Once you have stripped the end of the old wire, ensure the copper is clean, and not all black.
You will need a 15amp connector block or wago suitable for 2.5mm2 cable.
The ends of the wires that go to the socket should be doubled over, to ensure a good contact.
If you're not confident, get an electrician.
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I’ve tugged on the wire and there is plenty of wire that comes out so I think it won’t need extending, I’ll cut the burnt part off and make sure there’s a new copper and insulation from the wiring…
What do you mean by “doubled over”?
If you can do it easily. then double, triple or quadruple it.
The aim is to fill the terminal hole with conductor (in a ideal world), that way you are ensuring there is as much conductor to terminal contact area to help the current flow more easily, it also helps avoid (if using round terminals witch a connecting screw poking thru) the conductor or part of it getting trapped beteem the screw and the terminal and not having a solid enough contact.
If the terminals are modern cage clamps that is often avoided with decent makes, however I have an aversion to cage clamps because they are basically two flat plates clamping on a round conductor like a "square peg in a round hole" type scenario.
But doubling, trebling or quadrupling, if the terminal accepts it and you can do it smoothly and easily I would suggest you do.
The aim is to fill the terminal hole with conductor (in a ideal world), that way you are ensuring there is as much conductor to terminal contact area to help the current flow more easily, it also helps avoid (if using round terminals witch a connecting screw poking thru) the conductor or part of it getting trapped beteem the screw and the terminal and not having a solid enough contact.
If the terminals are modern cage clamps that is often avoided with decent makes, however I have an aversion to cage clamps because they are basically two flat plates clamping on a round conductor like a "square peg in a round hole" type scenario.
But doubling, trebling or quadrupling, if the terminal accepts it and you can do it smoothly and easily I would suggest you do.
I am only thinking aloud here, so please don't shoot me down...
If you quadruple bend the end of a cable aren't you (potentially) creating three sharp bends that are potential points of failure?
I totally understand the desire to increase the clampable surface area, but it might it be the case that some kind of crimped ferrule would be a better option.
Again. I am only thinking aloud....
If the terminal is so large compared to the wire that 4x folds are necessary, then the wire is the wrong size.
Such as attempting to connect 1mm² into a shower isolator.
Multiple folds should not be necessary. Even a single one isn't always required.
I`m not disagreeing with that, however in practice the terminals are often very large in comparison with the conductors therefore area of contact, pull outs and trapping of conductors becomes more likely.
Doubling/tripling/quadruple of conductors can be done quite reasonably if sufficient conductor is stripped to ensure that the finished result is the bends are not directly next to or under the screw, something I neglected to mention.
Ferules can be a better solution as an aid to increasing surface area of contact on conductors.
If you look at the "Whiska" terminal boxes for example the terminals are quite big which means you are able to put many conductors into each terminal if desired, good so far but if you are holding, for example, 1mm conductor then a lot of the hole is empty, I would rather near fill it up with conductor/folding, so long as any folds are kept away from the screws.
Some inspectors will consider folded over conductors to be incorrect and raise it as a snag to be corrected prior to acceptance.
The same applies to adding ferrules to solid conductors.
Would that be the same ones that do not see anything wrong with twisting two or more solid conductors together?
Although it`s unlikely anyone would actually class it as an actual defect it nevertheless winds me up to see such things done. I don`t mind seeing light twists of seven stranded etc or even more so of flex to keep it tidy then inserting as one would a solid conductor(s) and yes even then doubling if you feel it appropriate to do (so long as you consider the clamping area under the screw takes the actual pressure and you leave about the same amount either end to avoid crush force to the fold.
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