Drilled into wire

[markyd1]

Yes cavity walls, stud walls, under floors and in ceilings, But they do recommend that access is still possible

 

[Taylortwocities]

Hi, ok, got these wagos and box lined up to collect tomorrow en route. All ok?

Maybe not that model of Wago. If you’ve cut a wire, you will not have any extra length to use.
Better to use the new Wago splicing connector

Inline splicing connector with levers (221-2411) | WAGO GB

Inline splicing connector with levers; for all conductor types; max. 4 mm²; 2-conductor; transparent housing; Transparent cover; Surrounding air temperature: max 85°C (T85); 4,00 mm²; transparent (4066966102666) Online at WAGO GB!

www.wago.com

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes cavity walls, stud walls, under floors and in ceilings, But they do recommend that access is still possible

Where are you getting this info from? The whole point of Wago is they are used in inaccessible locations.
Please provide links to the documentation. Thank you.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Solder.

 

[johnny2007]

Crimping or soldering and then heat shrink sleeve.
That will take the least space and can be plastered over.

 

[pete01]

If it's just 1 conductor put one of these on it, then maybe cover with capping fill and forget about it.

Await the backlash.....

 

[Taylortwocities]

If it's just 1 conductor put one of these on it, then maybe cover with capping fill and forget about it.

Await the backlash.....

No backlash, only.....For Wago to comply with Maintenance Free rules it must be a WAGO enclosure and Wago connectors.

 

[pete01]

No backlash, only.....For Wago to comply with Maintenance Free rules it must be a WAGO enclosure and Wago connectors.

Yeah but sometimes you've got to do what you've got to do

 

[JohnW2]

Yes cavity walls, stud walls, under floors and in ceilings, But they do recommend that access is still possible

This is getting stranger. Can you post, or provide links to, these 'recommendations' and 'instructions' from Wago?

I imagine that we would all prefer a situation in which "access is still possible", but I thought to whole point was that such was not 'necessary' for "MF" joints.

Put the other way around, if "access was still possible", why would one istall a "MD" JB?

Kind Regards, John

 

[securespark]

It depends what the cable feeds and where the destination of the cable is in relation to the damage.

It may be possible to join the cable in a recessed box with a blank plate over and feed a new piece from there to the destination.

 

[opps]

Crimps take up little space, but you need the right sizes and a DECENT crimping tool, or they will come adrift. They will need to be sleeved with heatshrink sleeving or placed in a suitable enclosure.

I don't have a dog in this fight, but I was under the impression that crimps are not suitable for solid core. That said, I can see how heat shrink will reduce the risk of things coming apart.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I don't have a dog in this fight, but I was under the impression that crimps are not suitable for solid core.

With the crimps and crimpers people normally have and use, you are correct.

 

[opps]

With the crimps and crimpers people normally have and use, you are correct.

Ok. Thanks.

So properly calibrated ones are fine?

 

[EFLImpudence]

So properly calibrated ones are fine?

I suppose so - by definition.

They crimp hexagonally or squarely on the correct sized crimp for the core.

Not the squash flat things which leave spaces next to the squashed core.

 

[JohnW2]

I suppose so - by definition. .... They crimp hexagonally or squarely on the correct sized crimp for the core. ... Not the squash flat things which leave spaces next to the squashed core.

That corresponds with my understanding, and also with my 'gut feelings'.

The sort of ratchet crimp tools usually advocated on this forum only actively 'squash' in one plane, any squashing in the plane at right angles to the primary plane being due, indirectly, to constraints imposed by the width of the die.

As you say, what one really needs is at least two planes of active squashing (i.e. two at right-angles, hence 'square) and, ideally, 3 planes (at 120°, hence 'hex'). However, although my experience is limited, I can't say that I've ever seen an electrician using such a tool.

Kind Regards, John