Easiest way to rebate wood (in this case architrave)

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Hi,

Just getting round to fitting the architrave on some door frames I've fitted. The door frames are a few mm wider than the wall I've built so the architrave does not sit flush.

If the gap was small enough I would just caulk it but I think that will look sloppy in this case so I reckon rebating the architrave would be the best option.

so, what is the best way to do it?

I do have a cheapo power planer but think I would struggle to get it right as I don't have a good bench to hold the architrave. Is this the kind of job a table saw would be good for?

not sure the correct name for the architave but it is a basic plain rounded edge type.

Any tips appreciated.
 
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what shape is the architrave!!
it may be to thin to work from as in 3mm out the back may break through the moulding

to do it properly plaster/filler from the door frame fetherd in over a few inches
how much off a step is there!!
 
as mentioned, not sure of the correct name of it but it's not the decorative, shaped kind. In profile, it's just a rectangle with the two outer corners rounded off.

I'll need to measure properly as I only did a quick visual check with an offcut last night once I had finished taping and filling but I suspect not more than 3-4mm.
 
easiest way to do it is to cut to the required rebate depth and width with a circular saw so you in effect have a slot in the middle the correct depth. Then the offcut side of the slot run the saw up and down many more times to give lots of slots which you can then use your power plane to remove the rest.

This way you have a nice straight rebate with the right depth.

does that make sense?
 
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for a rebate to work properly the gap needs to be fairly constant all the way round
iff the wall isnt constant and paralell to the side off the frame it will kick out
 
thanks for all the tips and replies, not had a chance to measure and look more closely to see if it's an even lip all round, will check tonight and decide on the best course of action.

I also did think about planing the frame, but decided against it as i didn't want to take it out to do it, or have to replace it if i did it badly. Also I hung the doors before finishing the walls so it would be more hassle.

Cheers.
 
just remember the rebates on the join must be identical otherwise you will get a corresponding step forward or back
so if your rebate is different by say 2mm from one side to the other
the head will need to taper to be different on each side
dont forget to pin/small nail in the top to tie the head and sides together
 
so, in the end only one door had a big enough gap (3mm) that needed some attention.

i had some 3mm hardboard i saved from the back of a kitchen unit, cut a thin strip, glued and clamped to the architrave, light sand down when dry then fitted as normal.

should be undetectable when finished (except for looking slightly thicker)
 
no problem,

i see lots of posts where I wonder how things worked out for people so I've decided in future to post updates on my own (if i remember) in case it helps others. :)
 
3mm ? Save yourself a lot of grief and just fill or caulk it
 

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