electric in summerhouse

With a fire and fridge you seam serious about using it all year round.
so you want a direct and thick cable put in. At least 6mm back to your fusebox.
My dad always regretted installing 2.5mm² (actually 7/0.029") to the garage, total run of 30-35m we had a 3KW wall mounted fan heater and 800W of lights (8x100W pendants) starting a drill would regularly take out the 15A supply fuse.
 
Sponsored Links
Thought the fuse would be more tolerant.

ppl often say on here, going up a cable size doesn’t cost a lot. It’s the labour to install it that does. (Or at least labour to do it a second time, if it’s too small)
 
I have always fitted 10 Milli 4 core SWA to outbuildings. Then you have some spare capacity if needed.
 
Thought the fuse would be more tolerant.

ppl often say on here, going up a cable size doesn’t cost a lot. It’s the labour to install it that does. (Or at least labour to do it a second time, if it’s too small)
It was a wylex fuse box with rewireable fuseholder, I often wonder how 'precise' the bits of wire wrapped onto a card are. I'll add that it usually seemed to be when using the circular saw attachment on the drill but I don't know if that's relevant.

The additional cost of a larger cable is typically 10-20% of the cable but if there's trenching involved maybe 3-5% on the whole job, upgrading later adds 103-105% plus inflation to the job. Classic example, neighbour had a 1mm² T&E buried direct in the ground to the garage to feed a fluo light (from a lighting circuit) which started tripping a RCD. He arranged a sparks to replace it with 2C 1.5mm² but left it on the lighting circuit £165. I tried to convince them to convert to a power circuit. 18 months they decided to put a tumble drier in there and the sparks did the calcs, retrenched and quoted for 3C 2.5mm² (admittedly longer trench which involved concrete) £325. I convinced to lay 3C 10mm² for £390... Since then the charging point was added:D
 
Sponsored Links
I've got three twin sockets and three singles in my summerhouse. It is all on a radial fed from a 16a RCBO. The lights are fed via fused spur unit.
The sockets feed, a fan heater, a plug in wireless doorbell, a microwave, a fridge, a mouse deterrent, a fridge, a fan. That is 7 of them, the other twin is simply because it has USB sockets to charge phones and tablets.
Basically put in as many sockets as you need in convenient places as long as they are correctly installed.
 
I'll add that it usually seemed to be when using the circular saw attachment on the drill but I don't know if that's relevant.
Heater and lights would already be 15A, making the fusewire rather hot.
Anything extra easily enough to cause it to fail, due to it's already heated state.

If the whole lot was switched on together from cold, it's unlikely the fuse would blow.
 
Heater and lights would already be 15A, making the fusewire rather hot.
Anything extra easily enough to cause it to fail, due to it's already heated state.

If the whole lot was switched on together from cold, it's unlikely the fuse would blow.
I imagine you are quite correct but it is not something that was likely to be done, feasibly the lights first then heater. Starting a power tool usually follows some sort of setting up or planning.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top