Expansion vessel replacement, do I need a registered Gas person to fix it, or a 'handyman'

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I've got a small handful of issues that I need fixing. (tap replacements, ubend fixing etc)

I also need the filling loop replaced as it has a very slight leak.

But I also have a need to fix the pressure issue in the combi boiler as it needs topping up weekly.
So potentially it could be the expansion vessel as most areas for leaks around radiators have been ruled out by me.

I've touted for a plumber/fixer on a website, and have a guy who has vast amount of good reviews but isn't a registered gas person.
As the expansion vessel could/maybe at fault (according to Dr Google) should I actually get a proper gas person in, or is this a job for a highly qualified 'handyman'?
 
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If wrong I’ll be quickly corrected but I think you need a G3 registered person to fix the expansion vessel. Check on the gas safe register for one near you. A G3 person on the register will also be gas safe registered. Not all gas safe members are G3 registered.
 
I didn't see any reference to an unvented cylinder in the OP, so why would he need a G3 engineer to change a pressure vessel in a combi?
 
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If it's the EV that's inside the combi boiler and it's the type of combi (Make and Model?) that has a room sealed outer case then yes, the chap needs to be GSR'd.

If it's external then no. It may actually be easier and cheaper to fit an external EV as the internal ones can be difficult and expensive to replace but it would still need a GSR engineer to cap off the old internal one.

If it was an unvented cylinder, then yes it would need a G3/UNHW qualified engineer.
 
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I didn't see any reference to an unvented cylinder in the OP, so why would he need a G3 engineer to change a pressure vessel in a combi?
I thought anything to do with expansion vessels had to be done by a G3 registered person. No? Happy to be corrected.
 
But I also have a need to fix the pressure issue in the combi boiler as it needs topping up weekly.
So potentially it could be the expansion vessel as most areas for leaks around radiators have been ruled out by me.

When you top it up... do you mean the water side via the filling loop, or the air side in the bladder? If the former, you have a water leak and replacing the vessel won't solve the underlying cause (unless you can see the leak site at the vessel itself). If the latter, then fair enough get it replaced.

Nozzle
 
I'll be honest, I don't know if it's unvented or not.. (or actually what that means) how could I tell?
the boiler is a Remeha, Avanta 28c ECO
Thanks in advance

82e22bbc-4440-4c17-8f60-2942b347155d.jpege588da61-fe87-4a02-ab14-46d3f0b46892.jpeg
 

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The expansion vessel is inside the boiler...it probably requires re-charging but you may also have a passing safety valve..check the small discharge pipe on the outside wall for drips.
It is classed as "work" and therefore it must only be done by a registered gas installer.
When the vessel is replaced several other safety checks must be done for compliance with the gas safety laws.
Be aware that the diverter gland seal is notorious for leaking on the those models so get that looked at.

G3 regulations have nothing to do with it...they only refer to unvented cylinders.
 
No, it need G3/UVHW certification to only work on anything related to an unvented cylinder. The qualification is specific.

Op - as far as your boiler is concerned then if the EV is to be replaced then yes you need a GSR engineer but as @Nozzle suggest you need to understand why you're losing water/pressure.

When the boiler is on does the pressure gauge rise to over 3 bar and does water escape from a curved copper pipe that will be outside on the opposite side of the wall the boiler is on.
 
When you top it up... do you mean the water side via the filling loop, or the air side in the bladder? If the former, you have a water leak and replacing the vessel won't solve the underlying cause (unless you can see the leak site at the vessel itself). If the latter, then fair enough get it replaced.

Nozzle
BTW, the boiler is at least 8 years old. was basically checked 2 years ago by British Gas and was fine apparently. But they weren't made aware of pressure dropping as I wasn't around at the time.

When I top up I just use the taps on the filling loop to repressurize. I turn them both on and it gets to 1.5bar. I used to have to do it every 8 weeks, now its almost weekly.
But thru wea and tear, now, when I twist the topup tap, it has started leaking a little bit, but stops once twisted to off. so the filling loop just needs replacing. (That's the easy part)

I doubt that this area is what is causing my pressure to drop every week or so though as I would expect quite a bit of water would be needed to be lost for the pressure issue.
I have checked all radiators for leaks and they are all dry.

So the bigger picture is why do I lose pressure?
I have been told that the expansion vessel could be an issue.. or it could be other things? I don't know.
Hence me wondering what level of 'fixer' to get in?
Hoping you guys can assist?

Thanks
 

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No, it need G3/UVHW certification to only work on anything related to an unvented cylinder. The qualification is specific.

Op - as far as your boiler is concerned then if the EV is to be replaced then yes you need a GSR engineer but as @Nozzle suggest you need to understand why you're losing water/pressure.

When the boiler is on does the pressure gauge rise to over 3 bar and does water escape from a curved copper pipe that will be outside on the opposite side of the wall the boiler is on.

From memory, the pressure never goes above 2, and once below 1 bar the system closes down till repressurization is done.
no leaks are noted anywhere. and I've felt the pipes around the boiler and around radiators. Does this assist you in a diagnosis?
 
BTW, the boiler is at least 8 years old. was basically checked 2 years ago by British Gas and was fine apparently. But they weren't made aware of pressure dropping as I wasn't around at the time.

When I top up I just use the taps on the filling loop to repressurize. I turn them both on and it gets to 1.5bar. I used to have to do it every 8 weeks, now its almost weekly.
But thru wea and tear, now, when I twist the topup tap, it has started leaking a little bit, but stops once twisted to off. so the filling loop just needs replacing. (That's the easy part)

I doubt that this area is what is causing my pressure to drop every week or so though as I would expect quite a bit of water would be needed to be lost for the pressure issue.
I have checked all radiators for leaks and they are all dry.

So the bigger picture is why do I lose pressure?
I have been told that the expansion vessel could be an issue.. or it could be other things? I don't know.
Hence me wondering what level of 'fixer' to get in?
Hoping you guys can assist?

Thanks

get a gas engineer. Simple
 
Is the boiler on an outside wall? If so there will be a copper pipe coming out through the wall on the opposite side that should curve back towards the wall, check to see if this is dripping - attach a plastic bag to is and see if it collects water.
 
Is the boiler on an outside wall? If so there will be a copper pipe coming out through the wall on the opposite side that should curve back towards the wall, check to see if this is dripping - attach a plastic bag to is and see if it collects water.

ahh one of the curved pipes.
yes its on an outside wall.
Im on the 2nd floor.. and if im correct, i think you mean the copper pipe that is below the exhaust pipe?
If so, alas, its a bit too high to check :-/
outisde.jpeg
 

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