Extending a Ring Circuit

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I’ve got lots of ring circuit cables passing through the loft. I want to cut into one of these to drop down into the bedroom for a new socket.

I will check that it’s on the upstairs ring and safely isolate before doing the work.

Can I use one wago box and have 2 x 2.5mm T&E coming out of it to feed the new socket or do I have two have one Wago box for each leg of the ring?

Thanks in advance.
 
Can I use one wago box and have 2 x 2.5mm T&E coming out of it to feed the new socket or do I have two have one Wago box for each leg of the ring?
A box is exactly that - a box with nothing in it. The quantity of boxes is mostly unrelated to the circuit configuration.

To extend the ring you will need 6 two-port connectors, 3 for each cable.
Cut existing cable, extend both cut ends to the new socket.
All 6 connectors can go into the same box.

To add an unfused spur you need 3 three-port connectors.
Cut existing cable, add 3rd cable to the new socket. Connect all 3 ends together.
The connectors go into a box.
 
Lucky you having socket ring cables in the loft.

If it’s only a double socket you can spur off the cable.

Although against modern regs, I would get a nice old round 30a junction box. Cheaper than wago.

Don’t cut the ring cable. Use a blade to cut down the cable where the earth is.

Remove grub screws from junction (careful not to loose)
Remove the coloured insulation off the cables just where they need to go into the terminals and fit in.
Then connect in the new cable.

This does not reduce the ring resistance and is actually easier to do
 
Lucky you having socket ring cables in the loft.

If it’s only a double socket you can spur off the cable.

Although against modern regs, I would get a nice old 30a junction boxes. Cheaper than wago.

Don’t cut the ring cable. Use a blade to cut down the cable where the earth is.

Remove grub screws from junction (careful not to loose)
Remove the coloured insulation off the cables just where they need to go into the terminals and fit in.
Then connect in the new cable.

This does not reduce the rings resistance and is actually easier to do
How would you sleeve the CPC?
 
You don’t. Better to have it continuous.

Diyer unlikely to have any sleeve anyway. There is no slack cable for it to move and touch anything.

You can sleeve the new cable if it makes you happier.
 
The reason I was asking about 1 or 2 Wago boxes was that I thought it would be preferable to see the two legs of the ring separated throughout, rather than them merging into a single Wago box.

Based on the above, I will use a single Wago box, how do I then decide whether I extend the ring by taking two separate legs to the new socket or do I take a single cable (unfused spur). I was inclined to go with the ring extension and having twi new legs out of the Wago box.
 
One junction box and one spur cable, use 4mm incase you need another socket one day.
 
There is a limit to the length of cable used in a ring final. Starting from scratch easy enough, allowed 106 meter so if used less than a role OK, but to extend existing job one is to work out how much cable has already been used.
Ring final.jpg
The diagram in the book shows what is allowed. However my meter measures in 0.1Ω increments, and really needs to be on 0.01Ω increments, but unless right on the edge then my meter will do. Better than having no meter.

In the main DIY we cross our fingers, and don't test to the degree we should, even if I drive through the village at 25 MPH, that does not make it OK, we all know the speed limit is 20 MPH, and if instructing some one I would tell them 20 MPH, same with electrics we may not always follow the rules our selves, but when telling some one else how to do the job, we should be saying how RCD testing is required etc.
 
When we install a ring final we usually ensure that all points are on the ring itself, that way it means that one point (twin or single socket for example) may be added directly to any point on the ring as an unfused spur, instead of adding at the point itself we could choose the option of adding by putting a junction box to any cable bridging two joints, we may also add one such spur at the origin (the fuseway) that is pretty standard as a ring final layout.
It is considered good housekeeping to not have more sockets on spurs (one length of 2;5 cable from any socket on the ring to one socket spurred from the ring) on any ring final circuit.
In any case each cable and connection must be robust both mechanically and electrically for the lifetime of the ring circuit.
Spurring only from points on the ring makes it easier to achieve this and to inspect it periodically as appropriate.

To extend any ring by keeping it as an actual ring without spurs has it merits but we must test that sensible ring total lengths are still maintained and not exceeded, that can be sometimes not easy to ensure and really requires proper test gear.

I myself have always endeavoured to make a quick approximation to see that a ring total length of 88 metres will never be approached on any ring and my target total max would try not exceed around 60 or 65 metres in any system, accordingly no spur length is allowed to be more than say 3 metres anywhere on the ring (I use the concept of a 2m max otherwise extend the ring not spur from it).

Junction boxes if used should be in accessible places (how accessible to be considered as accessible rather than inaccessible well opinions vary), I only consider easily accessible as accessible personally and that is why I prefer spurring or extending the ring from existing points as the preferred option.
I also give some consideration to achieving an approximate balance around a ring as regards load and duration of loads - more a quick sketch on the back of a fag packet sort of a thing rather than detailed calculations.

What I do wince at is when I see is what I consider a pretty radial type circuit with the last point or so having a longer length of cable back to the fuseway, it is a bit daft in my opinion because there is not much merit in it if any.
Again, pack of a fag packet style, the initial aim should be to spread the load evenly around the ring (again by actual estimated loads and duration of such) or alternatively most of the load around the middle one third of the ring or a combination of both ideas.
There are some that favour, if spurring from the ring directly from the cable rather than at a point, to carefully splice open the without damaging the conductors and neatly put all three under the grubscrews (or double them under tunnel terminal types) without breaking the conductors and then adding just the new spur end to that connection, that has the advantage of minimising possible problems caused by loose connections, so that has some merit too, is is more difficult to add earth sleeving for identification purposes on the ring proper parts of the earthwire, it is not considered for insulation properties of the earthwire although, fortuitously, it might add a bit, conductors kept neatly spaced inside joint enclosers is key really,
From the outset a new ring (or radial) circuit should be configured as providing adequate points by numbers and locations and additions/amendments as unlikely exceptions because things have changed unexpectedly during the life of the circuit, that is down to good design but it might, unfortunately, be impacted by economics at the time of design.

If I saw a ring with less (or none at all) points on the ring itself and more or all of the points on spurs I would not automatically condemn it )But I would not actually like it), similarly with more than one spur from the fuseway and mo ring involved, providing that all connections are mechanically and electrically sound. Example - If I was to see a 30A or 32A circuit with 5 or 6 short radials each to one twin socket, that would not magically become "dangerous" although it would break the regs, if done properly, I would certainly look at it twice though.
If you show a ring with spur at the fuseway then remove the ring itself from the fuseway and just leave one radial with one twin socket as the circuit then it is amazing how many (including some electricians) would condemn it as actually or potentially dangerous for some reason, ask them why and they cant give you a reason.

Tin hat on and ducked below the parapet !
 
I’ve got lots of ring circuit cables passing through the loft. I want to cut into one of these to drop down into the bedroom for a new socket.

I will check that it’s on the upstairs ring and safely isolate before doing the work.

Can I use one wago box and have 2 x 2.5mm T&E coming out of it to feed the new socket or do I have two have one Wago box for each leg of the ring?

Thanks in advance.
Its worth extending a ring main like this because you will probably need/ want more sockets in the future. Just make absolutely sure it is a ring, and the right one.
 
...or it isn't because you probably won't.
He's posting a lot and is clearly doing up his house. It's likely that its an older property with very few sockets compared to todays needs.
 

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