Fascia & Soffit Help

[CKB]

Hi
We have fascia and soffits being installed next week,looking for advice as to which way is the correct way of installing the soffits.
Should the boards run length ways?
They will be fitted onto noggins but I don't think there is a j trim goin against the wall,will the soffits sag if no trim is used or should the soffits sit ontop of the brickwork?

 

[CKB]

If they are just fitted to the noggins will that offer enough support?
On previous installs it looks like the soffits are attached to the noggins (doesn't show trims/soffits sitting on the brick course) and then mastic is applied between the board and brickwork,is this good enough?
Any help is appreciated.

 

[^woody^]

Soffit board can go either way depending on how you want it to look. Edge trims should really be fitted where soffits abut walls as they look crap otherwise and can prevent sags.

If you have asbestos soffits, ensure your installers have had asbestos awareness training, and can work safely

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Common UPVC version. The fascia is an L shape, which provides a small ledge facing towards the house - the facia is fixed in place first. Fixed to the wall is a long length of U channel. Short pieces of soffit are then cut, to fit the slot into gap between U and bottom lip of the L. In other words, short lengths of soffit sit side by side, all the way along.

Gutter brackets then fix with stainless screws, through into the timber behind the fascia. Yes the J trim/ U trim is essential.

 

[^woody^]

Don't forget the eaves felt support trays may need to be fitted if there are no currently

 

[CKB]

Thank you for the replies.
Eaves trays and bird combs are included, it was just worrying me regarding the soffits,our current ones are resting on the brick course then slotted into the rebate of fascia (Photo attached).
Can't see any j trims or similar been fitted in any of the previous photos showing there work,I think they just nail the soffit to the noggin and mastic the gap between the brickwork and soffit.

 

[CKB]

If they do it this way the soffit is supported at the front by the rebate in the fascia but only supported by the noggins which are approx 600mm centres,will the soffit sag at the edge where it meets the wall?

 

[^woody^]

You need to specify what you want, not just accept what they do.

 

[CKB]

Thanks Woody
In you opinion what would you suggest as best practice,if the soffit can slide over the course of bricks as it is currently and then fit into he fascia I'm guessing that's the best option.
Is there a better solution, and finally why are some soffits laid lengthways and others at 90° to the walk?
Is one way better that the other?
Regards

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Thanks Woody
In you opinion what would you suggest as best practice,if the soffit can slide over the course of bricks as it is currently and then fit into he fascia I'm guessing that's the best option.
Is there a better solution, and finally why are some soffits laid lengthways and others at 90° to the walk?
Is one way better that the other?
Regards

Soffits come in fixed widths and are tongued and grooved. The width needed might, though probably would not match that width, so the obvious way to fit them is short lengths side by side (90%). I would be wary of soffits just left resting on bricks, high winds can easily lift them.

 

[^woody^]

Thanks Woody
In you opinion what would you suggest as best practice,if the soffit can slide over the course of bricks as it is currently and then fit into he fascia I'm guessing that's the best option.
Is there a better solution, and finally why are some soffits laid lengthways and others at 90° to the walk?
Is one way better that the other?
Regards

Normally the old wooden fascia stays on, the new plastic capping is fitted over it, leaving a gap at the bottom between the timber edge and the new fascia toe into which the soffit slots. The problem with this, is that the soffit is then below the level of the bricks at the fascia end, and so if its put on the top of the bricks its sloping towards the fascia. An then as Harry says, wind can lift the soffit so timber noggins are needed above.

Generally its better to just over clad the existing soffit and have the new soffit lower and abut the wall and use a J edge trim. Careful detailing around window recesses.

However over cladding asbestos soffit raises problems with fixing through it

Otherwise, if the tiles are coming off to fit eaves tray, the soffit level can be easily adjusted if the existing soffit is removed.

Regarding orientation of soffit, that's been answered up the thread