Firebird C26 - having a 'mare

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Yorkshire
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Will try to keep this simple: spring last year oil got low in tank I tipped it up to get dregs out & it finally ran out just as the weather had warmed up (didn't bother topping up through summer - used immersion). In doing this I had let the water sitting at the bottom of tank into the oil feed line.
When restarting around 6 weeks ago no chance ! Now after changing 2 * pressure relief valves, a expansion vessel oil pump & one nozzle , it worked for a day & packed in .
If you crack off the return from pump to tigerloop, there is oil pumping out - however there is none if you disconnect the oil supply pipe to nozzle from pump. This I explained this to the OFTEC reg boiler eng who had changed the pump initially, he tried turning pump shaft, found it stiff & said I had still water in line & this is what had knackered new pump - it's a Riello RDB burner by the way.
Can this be right ? the pump works but it seems to me that the solenoid valve is not opening - I've tried a current detector pen on the current supply to the solenoid and at no stage does it light up (although pen advises a min of 50v, it does however respond to my 18 v drill battery & I believe the supply to solenoid is stepped down to twentysomething volts) with this being the case I'm suspecting the control unit at fault ?
Often on this site the advice is get a pro around - this I have done, but I am not entirely confident in his evaluation (he was a awkward so & so as well but that's beside the point !)
TBH, I'm tempted to just cut my losses & purchase a full new burner (£200) - it's now snowing outside & wife & 3 young kids are freezing, at least then I know nothing is broken.
UNLESS someone can describe a easy way of testing out solenoid valve or can it be frigged to be left open.
Hope someone can help because this has been doing my nut in for 6 weeks now- good money after bad.
 
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You test a solenoid valve by two tests.

Measure applied voltage.

Measure current taken. ( measuring resistance is usually easier )

To do that you need a test meter!

Tony
 
I would doubt if a current testing pen would be responsive at the low voltages here, but a magnetic one would....this indicates if the coil is actually inducting, so I'd follow Tony's advice and use a meter set to AC.
You are correct though, these coils start on a higher voltage and then drop to a lower voltage when the solenoid plunger has opened.
I think it would be dangerous to disable the electric shut off that the solenoid provides.
Water is a huge killer of kerosene pumps.....have you tested your pump to see if it actually can provide the pressure that the burner needs?
John :)
 
Thank you Tony & John, just tried the pen again - the solenoid is actually getting a voltage, I just wasn't close enough to the wires.
I'm just interested in how the pump works & wether my symptoms ie. oil back through the tigerloop oil return (from pump) but none from pump to nozzle marry with a busted pump. I'm thinking that the pressure has to get to a certain level before valve to nozzle pipe is opened - if so and my pump was prematurely worn, then that would cause the prob's I am experiencing
I could well imagine the pump being damaged if (as I did with the first pump) you kept resetting burner with return off in order to purge lines of water, but the new pump was installed with the lines water free - no purging was done, it just packed in.
I'm afraid Tony my multimetre skills aren't the best so would draw line at checking voltages, does John ever venture down as far as Richmond (Catterick) area ?
 
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The photocell isn't seeing any false light, is it? It needs to be fully dark for it to instruct the burner to start.
(Sorry, I'm not a heating engineer, just an ordinary engineer!) :eek:
John :)
 
You are now reaping the rewards of your "Tight fisted tinkering"!
It would have been far cheaper to keep the tank topped up.
 
Its easy to test a solonoid just remove the head put a screwdriver through the hole swich on boiler if the solonoid is working the sctewdriver will be attracted by the magnet, but this doesnt mean that the valve is opening it could be stuck on its seating.
 
Nowhere do you mention the use of a pressure gauge. During prepurge, you should achieve a 'wash' pressure of about 50psi, rising to about 130 on this boiler when the solenoid opens. The presence of oil in the return against no resistance is no check. Your engineer should easily be able to check the operation.
it is possible that you are still pulling contamination through the pump. Removal of the filter cover on the pump will show this.
 

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