Fitting Radiator Before Replastering

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Hello,
I want to reposition a few radiators over Christmas, problem is, in a few locations there is no plaster just brick. The plaster was hanging off due to damp resulting from poorly installed windows which are being replaced mid-January.
To progress things over Xmas is it ok to mount the rads on wood the same thickness as the plaster then remove prior to plastering?
Is it as simple as that?!
 
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As muggles says, sounds good.

Just remember to fix the batons to the wall with good sized screws & nice large deep plugs. You will also need to drill holes at the back of the wood, into the brick, to accommodate the position, length & size of the bracket screws.
 
Be aware that if your intention is to position pipework while on the wood then when repositioning the rad on the plaster the rad will need to be in exactly the same position as it was before on the wood.

Easier said than done!

Tony
 
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Leave the batons screwed to the wall, just plaster to their edge with a skim over them. Leave the rad bracket screws half in to preserve the positioning.
 
Leave the rad bracket screws half in to preserve the positioning.

Wear earplugs when the plasterer sees those screws.

Hide your screwdrivers too or he will use them to remove the screws!
 
what thickness off plaster are you expecting ??
absolute minimum to support a radiator is 12mm and several screws in each bracket
or is the timber purely a spacer ??
 
I would always use a minimum of 50 mm screws and usually 60 mm screws.

That assumes 10 mm of plaster.

On old walls and those with 40 mm of lime plaster then I often use 100 mm frame ties instead.

I have never had any rads that I have fitted come off the walls. But seen many others that have!

Tony
 
Thanks for replies.
I was thinking the wood is purely a spacer to do the pipe work so I can progress the room without needing raise boards again.
Plaster that came off was 10mm ish.
 
ok my suggestion
timber touching the top off the floor/skirting
make sure its vertical
screw brackets in place
mark the batons a/b/c
masking tape on the skirting or floor
mark the exact position on the tape
then use a thin nail very small screwdriver to push throught the holes in the baton to locate the plugs through the plastered wall
 
Seems like there's two variables: judging the wood thickness / depth of plaster and once I remove the wood making sure I leave the screws in before plastering. As long as the plaster is as thick as that removed then its all good. I see trouble ahead....
 

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