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Ford Focus central locking

Discussion in 'Car Repairs / Maintenance' started by Phil J, 19 Feb 2006.

  1. deadpheasant

    deadpheasant

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    Hi have a Siemens box like in g4jnw's picture. Do I just take all the plugs out of this? There seems to five or so. Other people are mentioning two plus (one green one blue). Mine all seem to be the same. It's an 02 1.6 Focus. The range on my key fob is so bad, that I might as well just use the key and it's got a new battery in it.

    Thanks
     
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  3. warpaint

    warpaint

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    Unplug them all then. According to a mate who is a Ford Tech it just resets the system, as does removing fuse 63.
     
  4. koontz

    koontz

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    I am having similar problems, the other day got out of the car ot open gate with the engine still running and radio on and the central locking locked me out from my car, the only way back in was to call recovery services and the got me back in for £45.00. The central locking works opening driver door but wont work unless the passanger side door is locked from inside?, also the central locking sometimes comes on and off when Im not doing anything. Also how do i get another key, dont want to go through calling recovery up again.
     
  5. koontz

    koontz

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    How do you take these plugs out?, they seem to be hard wired?.
     
  6. kevinw9578

    kevinw9578

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    I have a 3 door focus zetec 1999 and the central locking from the fob only un locks the boot not doors. When the key is used in the door all locks work from cenral locking pls pls pls help
     
  7. PhilJoel

    PhilJoel

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    Hi,

    I can't seem to locate the SEIMENS box. Would some help be able to help locate it for me? Are we talking under the dashboard i.e. in the footwell? Or are we talking under the bonnet?

    If the footwell, I can see the fuse box - where is it in relation to this?

    Thanks in advance!
    Phil.
     
  8. mikebass87

    mikebass87

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    Hi all,
    I bought a year 2000 focus back in jan 2010, the lady i bought it from said the remote central locking had been bit intermittent and then had stopped working a few weeks before i bought car from her. the key works fine as it starts the car and central locking works fine when key is used manually in door keys.

    in the last week or so i have been trying to get it to work as prefer to use the remote central locking, after alot of looking on the net i have tried a few things.

    i have replaced the '63' fuse that is tucked away behind the glove box, changed the battery in the key etc.

    I have tried the putting key in ignition and turning to II and off 4 times in 6 seconds, there is then a chime and at this point i need to press a button on the fob to reprogramme the key, however, nothing happens when I have pressed any of the buttons.

    what can i do to try and get the remote locking working again?

    thanks for any help

    Mike
     
  9. NickST

    NickST

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    Hi there.

    I have a similar problem with my Ford Fiesta ST.

    I was wondering, to get rid of the static build up, could I not just unplug the cars battery for an hour or so?

    Sorry if it's a silly question, but I've found the remote receiver, and it's REALLY difficult to get to those plugs. Thought perhaps the battery could be a short cut.
     
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  11. ChrisFocus

    ChrisFocus

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    I've put up with the gradually worsening state of my 2000 Ford Focus 1.8 Estate's central locking for months, and finally got round to doing something about it today.

    Thanks to this thread, and masif1's picture above, I've solved it at the first attempt by unplugging the two connectors from the Siemens unit for about 10 minutes.

    The Haynes manual describes taking off part of the pillar trim to get to the unit, but that wasn't necessary for my car -- the unit is above the trim, up under the dashboard. A bit tricky to get to, and the connectors require pressure on the ribbed catch to get them to release.

    It's all suddenly working again, and the sun is shining...

    cheers

    Chris
     
  12. birkee

    birkee

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    My car: 2005 Focus, 3 button type 2 key remote.

    Having seen some weird answers to this problem of the remote locking not working, I've sorted mine out, and it is now as good as new.
    FORGET about "static electricity" in the control box, and other such suggestions. Rubbish!

    As an ex electronics engineer, I asked myself "why should it degrade in range, and then simply give up altogether"?
    SIMPLE.......insufficient, or no battery voltage to operate the electronic key module properly.
    But I've put in a NEW battery! I hear you say. So what?
    The problem is:-
    The condition of the battery contacts to the electronic module, get tarnished by age and dirt.
    The electronic module draws such LITTLE current, that it can't break through this tarnish, and so it has, in effect, no battery to supply it.
    Luckily, I've seen this problem before on other circuits, and seems a very prone to occuring on small signal relays etc, even though the circuit is otherwise FULLY functional.

    Clean the battery connections!
    BUT BUT BUT BUTTTTT......
    The pads on the electronic module PCB in one half of the key, have a thin gold plating.......rub them very gently with an alcohol soaked tissue, DO NOT use anything abrasive. Finally, do the same with the battery connections, both sides of the battery, the battery to the built in contacts, and the built in contacts, to the remote module.
    SORTED!

    OH.....and when you have cleaned the contacts, you will need to reprogramme the key......30 second job, as mentioned above.
    Insert key in ignition, and start at position 1.
    Turn key to position 2 (Ign ON), and then back to position 1, doing so four times in less than six seconds, and remove the key from the ignition.
    You will hear a beep from the system to indicate programming mode.
    Press any button on the remote, and the system will beep again, to indicate acceptance.
    WAIT 20 seconds before operating ignition or door locks while it closes "programming" mode.

    NOTE: People suffering other problems have my sympathy, but these are almost certainly due to component / installation failure.
    Faulty mechanism blowing fuse 63, one lock failing, but not blowing the fuse, etc etc etc.
    That one about "remote locking" self operating is weird though. My guess is there is a faulty earth somewhere in the circuit, and the mechanism is being operated by electrical noise, or, the remote key is so worn and tired, that it's possible to operated it just by knocking the fob etc.
    Replace the key? Easy but pricy......faulty earth connection? Good luck!
     
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  13. challinor

    challinor

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    hi all, i own a ford focus zetec 99, my remote started to play up, sometimes it would work then fail, i replaced the battery then it did not work at all, after many websites i try'd the following

    1, took glove box out, undid the 2 brass bolts, gently pulled the fuse box down, then turned it around to check a 20 amp fuse hidden away behind. the fuse was ok.

    2, checked under the drivers footwell to see r/c/l module, i disconnected it for 1 hour, this did not work for me but may on your's.

    3, try'd to re-program key ( but the key in i pos then in ii pos 5 times fast till you here a chime then press any button on the remote to here another chime, but there was no second chime. this means it is the key itself.

    4, opened key and noticed that one of the clips holding the battery in was slightly loose, after using a glue gun the battery was held in perfect, i cleaned the pcb board with I,P,A. WENT TO THE CAR AND IT WORKED, HAPPY DAYS.

    PLEASE TRY THESE FIRST BEFORE YOU RING FORD, THEY SAID TO ME ON THE PHONE THAT IT WILL BE YOU KEY IF YOU CAN'T RE-PROGRAM YOURS.
    AND WILL COST £87 PLUS VAT AND 1 HOUR LABOUR COST.
     
  14. challinor

    challinor

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    hi mike, i had the same fault as yourself

    open your key, replace battery ( make sure the battery fits nice in the 2 clips, clean the green pcb board pads with alcohol even vodka ( trust me ) then put the key back together, this worked for me. hope this helps

    kev
     
  15. mpab

    mpab

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    Thanks for the advice. Still, there's something missing.

    My car is a 2005 European Ford Focus (MkII). The original owner had lost the RC key and I got a new one about 8 months after having bought the car.

    A month later, it began to fail. It was very straightforward: gradually losing range and failing if used without a pause. I blamed the key battery and changed it. Also cleaned every contact. My multimeter said it gave 3.3 V or so (the old one gave around 2.7). It worked flawlessly for a few weeks.

    Then one day it ceased working a few minutes after it had closed the doors remotely from some 5 meters away. I had to open the car by hand and reprogram it. A few hours later, it lost its programming again. This time it was different: while in programming mode, it would give me the confirmatory "beep" when I pressed a button on the remote, but it wouldn't obey the remote at all after having "accepted" it.

    Sometimes it would accept the remote for a few hours, only to need reprogramming again and again. I tested it with 2 other peoples' keys and the results were exactly the same.

    My guess revolves around a fault in the remote receiver. Whether it's a loose contact, a programming bug, a circuit getting old, whatever.
    I don't know which fuse feeds the receiver, nor where the receiver is placed in my car: It has such few things in common with the previous model...
     
  16. davidcgriffin

    davidcgriffin

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    My 2006 focus hatchback started making clicking sounds like a door somewhere was trying to lock, especially when I was slowing down or turning. Then or at the same time, the interior electronic buttons for locking all the doors stopped working properly. The locks could be unlocked without problem but if the locking button was pushed, nothing would happen at first and a couple of minutes later the doors would all finally lock. I starting messing with the bundles of wires under and behind the glove compartment. Moving one of the bundles would produce the clicking noise that sounded upon slowing down and turning (this noise didn't actually result in the locking or unlocking of the car). Suspecting a short, I took off the tape that joined the sensitive bundle with another and cut away some of the felt that held the wires together where they entered the floor. After separating the bundles, moving the sensitive bundle no longer produced the clicking noise and the electronic lock button began operating normally again.
     
  17. QueensCorgie

    QueensCorgie

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    I HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH MY CENTRAL LOCKING TOO KEYFOB WORKS FINE AS LONG AS FUSE 63 HAS NOT BLOWN WHICH IT HAD DONE SO REPLACED THIS BLEW AGAIN AND AGAIN UNTIL THE FUSE FINALLY HELD THOUGHT EVERYTHING WAS FINE THEN THE REAR DOOR WAS NOT OPENING HANDLE AND BUTTON WERE SOLID WHICH MADE ME THINK DOOR SOLINOID WAS KNACKERED THEN AFTER LEAVING IT FOR DAYS IT SWAPPED SIDES ONE DAY TO THE OPPOSITE DOOR HOW WEIRD IS THAT, SO LIKE ALL STARTED SEARCHING FOR ANSWERS TO FIX THIS THEN IT STARTED WORKING AGAIN NEXT DAY THINKING ALL WAS WELL WENT TO OBEN BOOT VIA INTERIOR RELEASE NOTHING HAPPENED SO GOT OUT AND TRIED THE FOB NOTHING HAPPENED THEN STARTED BLOWING THE FUSE AGAIN AND AS MOST WILL KNOW 63 IS A
    NIGHTMARE TO GET TO ONCE NEVER MIND OVER AND OVER, HAD TO HAND IT IN TO SOMEONE WHO THEN TOLD ME SOMETHING I HAD NOT HEARD FROM ANY WEBSITE . MY MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT THE MAIN WIRING LOOM FROM THE FRONT TO REAR HAS A FAULT WHERE ITS JOINED IN THE MIDDLE ON LEFT AND RIGHT SIDES ROUGHLY AT THE BOTTOM OF EITHER PILLAR ON THE FLOOR WHERE ITS MATED TOGETHER THIS LOOM CARRIES POWER AND CORRODES ESPECIALLY WITH WET CARPETS WINTER DRIVING WHICH MADE SENCE AS ALWAYS WORSE IN WINTER AND THIS WAS WHY THE REAR DOORS WHERE ALWAYS AFFECTED NEVER FRONT SO I AM GOING TO HAVE A LOOK SOON TO SEE WHAT CAN BE DONE I WILL POST REPLY WHEN I HAVE DONE SO. IT MAYBE A HELP AS THIS SEEMS TO BE TOO COMMON ON ALL FOCUSES IF ANYONE GETS TO IT BEFORE I DO LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND!!!!
     
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