You have mentioned this a number of times, so much so, that I did some experiments with a Variac and a 65watt florescent with wire wound ballast.
Even down at 205 volts I had no problem with striking or running. Maybe a bit dimmer that's all.
Interesting the first time I played with voltage on a fluorescent fitting with wire wound ballast was on the building of Sizewell 'B' where my boss had decided to use 110 volt 60 watt fluorescent fittings to light the tunnels.
Quick calculation and we thought approx 0.5 amp each so should get 32 on a 16 amp supply but to be on safe side went for 25. But the 16 amp MCB tripped so we then measured, nearly 21 amp.
On opening the fluorescent fitting it had a standard 230 volt ballast and an auto transformer marked 110 - 0 - 127 and the input was on the 110 side, so swapped first 20 fittings to 127 volt, tried setting all to 127 but last 3 would not strike, and total draw was then around 15 amp. Until then I had not realised how voltage dependent the fluorescent lamp was, but I was around when EU was 220 volt and UK was 240 volt, and that 20 volt was very important with fluorescent lamps, using EU fittings and the tubes were over driven, reducing their life.
But as we dropped officially to 230 volt the old 65 watt 5 foot tubes still worked OK, and as the supply of 65 watt tubes dried up the 58 watt tubes seemed to also work OK, life a little shorter say 18 months where was around 4 years, but the voltage may have been officially 230 volt but in real terms it was over 240 volt, then some houses had solar panels, and the volts dropped, and we actually started to get 230 volt, at that point my kitchen light would strike some times, but not all the time, and I had to move over to LED tubes. I could have used a HF ballast, but would need to remove whole fitting and it was not easy to get to. But it was a combination of wrong tube and lower voltage.
As to refrigeration and volt drop that was Algeria, the Turkish electrician seemed to think 110 volt to neutral 3 phase supply would give 220 volt phase to phase, however it is only 190 volt, and due to the volt drop it would some times stall, and very quickly the overload built into the compressor would fail. And the AC units were requiring repair quite often, cure was to buy them local so designed for the 110 volt system. Most fridges and freezers say do not use an extension lead as a result, the high start load and the resistance of both cable and fuse can cause them to stall.
However my freezer and fridge/freezer today have three phase motors and inverter drive, and the volt drop is no longer a problem, same with the fluorescent lamp the HF ballast auto corrects for volt drop, so tubes last longer, and give out more light, so spec wise compare well with the LED, in my own house the LED did not last long, no SPD so maybe that is why, but one of the few LED failures I have had.
Back in the 90's we had auto transformers built into consumer units claiming to save power by maintaining the voltage to 220 volt so reducing power used, and with a home full of fluorescent lamps they did save money, today they are just a fire risk. Most modern equipment will work 207 to 253 volt, some have a auto disconnect system should the volts go out of that range, solar panels and EV charging points for example. Pre 1995 nominal voltage was 240 volt +6% / -6% so permitted range 225.6 - 254.4 volts Jan 95 this went to 230 volt +10% / -6% so 216.2 - 253 volts and it was proposed Jan 2003 to go 230 volt +10% / -10% so 207 - 253 volts taken from BS7671:2001. And I note with EV charging points the range is 207 - 253 volts so assume that was adopted, together with raising touch voltage from 50 volt to 70 volt.
The volt drop has also impacted on the loop impedance, we have to now allow an extra 5% to allow for volt drop.
I have questioned PAT testing limits where a house is all RCD protected, an extension lead is safe even when rather long with RCD protection but the permitted 2.42 Ω for 13 amp and 16.4 Ω for 3 amp (BS 7671:2008) for a BS 1362 fuse still is required where not RCD on the sockets.
I will admit having had RCD protection on all circuits since around 1992 I tend to expect by now all homes would have it, however with the new landlord laws it seems there are still loads of homes without it. My mothers house only had earths on the lights and all RCD protection in around 2017 and father-in-laws house still had no RCD protection when sold, however as far as this tread goes as long as the adaptors do not cause a strain on the socket I see no problems, all the above is not really required.