Fused spur - distance to draining board

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Otherwise, in that situation, I would be extremely grateful to have an accessible switched FCU, or grid switch! :)

Those (unnecessary) FCUs are often on the wass above the appliance. I would not be wanting to lean over a burning appliance to turn it off either.
 
I seem to remember reading 14th edition and at that time there was a distance, the early regulations were more like the guides to regulations we get today, seem to remember kettles had 1 meter only of flex so impossible to put kettle under tap while still plugged in.

However things have moved on, a waste disposal unit is likely to have a supply well under one meter away, now it only says suitable for the environment.

Washing machines have been know to have loose weights, and to walk around the kitchen smashing any thing in their way, so a plug or switch which is not jumping up and down to switch them off made sense, but again today out of balance and they auto switch off.

Placing cooker isolators where they can be used in the case of a chip pan fire makes sense, however what would ignite the chip fat with an induction hob I fail to see, and if required there would also be an isolator for gas appliances as well.

And he painted over the gas tap and couldn't turn it on, but it all makes work for the working man to do.
 
I seem to remember reading 14th edition and at that time there was a distance

long ago an electrician indicated a fathom's reach between his hands, and told me it was so you couldn't have one hand on a tap and one hand on the plug.

there was something similar with outlets on different phases.
 
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There is no such regulation and even if there were the regs are not statutory.
Being told the regs are not statutory is not helpful when DIYers come here for advice from professionals about whether something complies or how to fit something so that it complies with the current regulations.

You have done this several times recently.
 
The legal position is dealt with in the first 20 min of the C&G course . It sounds as thought Winnie didn't even make the first 20 minutes.
 
The legal position is dealt with in the first 20 min of the C&G course . It sounds as thought Winnie didn't even make the first 20 minutes.
Perhaps you could explain. Like many DIYers I have not done any C & G courses.
 
You know very well that, though the regs may not strictly be law, they are used as a benchmark as to whether an installation is installed competently and is safe to use.

And whether they are statutory or not makes no difference. It is the standard that professional electricians work to and we advise DIYers accordingly.

Please stop doing this or I will be forced to report you.
 
Perhaps you could explain. Like many DIYers I have not done any C & G courses.
It used to be defined in the 16th under the section "object and effects" reg 120-02, in the 18th its defined under "scope" reg 114, located near the front of the book.
It basically says they can be used in a court of law as evidence to claim compliance with a statutory requirement
 
long ago an electrician indicated a fathom's reach between his hands, and told me it was so you couldn't have one hand on a tap and one hand on the plug.

there was something similar with outlets on different phases.

That would require a kitchen bigger than most in existence.

Or no plugs in one!
 
I believe the 300mm guide evolved from the days of kettles with the original "Kettle leads" which were short, the kettle was used on the draining board and the idea was so when you unplugged it, the live end could not fall in the sink bowl.
I think it was originally only for sockets, "Spurs as they were called before the FCU days were often used for water heaters so I quess many of them would have been located close to sinks.
 
A fathom is six feet.
Yup.
Go and stand at your kitchen sink and scribe a 6ft arc from the tap.

How many plugs do you hit?

I get 3 double sockets, the cooker switch and the boiler switchgear!
 

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