Fused Spur for Boiler

twgas";p="1676053 said:
picasso. and everyone,

Thank you for your interest, for nearly 25 years I have had the same boiler, a Glow-worm Fuel saver 35F, purely for the central heating.
The total output required for that boiler, for the radiators was 33780btu. and it has always been very reliable.
When the BG engineer came to give us a quote for a new boiler, it was he that suggested the Vallant EcoTec Pro 24kw High Efficiency Condensing Combi Boiler.
Are you suggesting that the Valiant 24kw would not be as capable as our current Glow-worm?
Before anyone asks, we have two boilers installed, one for central heating, the other, a Medway Super for hot water, installed a couple of years before we had the central heating.
WTF has this to do with a fused spur?[/quote

my fault :oops: I mentioned that I thought the 24kw was underpowered, to the op get upgraded to the 28kw ecotec, you will appreciate the extra power for your hot water in the middle of winter.
 
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I'm sorry everyone, at the start I should have said that it would be a Vallant EcoTec Pro 24kw High Efficiency Condensing Combi Boiler.
At the end of the day, if BG do install it, I will get a new fused spur, I just wondered why and what the difference was?

according to manufacturers for that boiler
Connection
to the mains supply shall be made via a fused 3 pin plug
to an unswitched shuttered socket, both complying with
the requirements of BS 1363.
(Alternatively, connection may be made via a 3 A fused
double pole isolator having a contact separation of at
least 3 mm in all poles and supplying the boiler and controls
only).

either will do but IMO
a) fused spur is a neater job
b) MI's are a bit confusing as double pole (switched) socket outlets have been available for ages and offer the exact same degree of protection as a fused spur (ie switching both line and neutral and a 3mm gap) plus the added bonus of complete disconnection via pulling the plug

some would also argue,(me for one) that a double pole socket outlet
Alternatively, connection may be made via a 3 A fused double pole isolator having a contact separation of at
least 3 mm in all poles

complys with the above statement

still prefer the aesthetics of a fused spur tho

matt
 
Unswitched single socket & plug is always better.

If you are fault finding the boiler & doing a polarity test, you need to remove the wires from a DP/switch.
 
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If you are fault finding the boiler & doing a polarity test, you need to remove the wires from a DP/switch.
why remove wires?


For polarity 'stage' testing son, do you CPS Parts Changers not do that??
We had this ex-BG CPS working for us for a very short time & I asked him if he had done an inclined polarity check or a cross bonded ionization test.........whoooooosh!! straight over his head........... :LOL: :LOL:
 
Well twgas, Mick, if you read my original question, "Within the quote is the installation of a new "fused spur. the present electrics for the boiler come via a dedicated, normal 13amp plug and socket.
Why must it be replaced, it is a spur and it is fused?", and then the comment from Picasso posted Sat jul 17. "on a side note I would upgrade to a 28kw combi, the 24 is underpowered in my umble opinion". you will see that I was trying to explain why I have a smaller boiler, and the BG engineer thought that the 24 kw would be fine.
thanks
 
If you are fault finding the boiler & doing a polarity test, you need to remove the wires from a DP/switch.
why remove wires?


For polarity 'stage' testing son, do you CPS Parts Changers not do that??
We had this ex-BG CPS working for us for a very short time & I asked him if he had done an inclined polarity check or a cross bonded ionization test.........whoooooosh!! straight over his head........... :LOL: :LOL:

Well it's gone whooosh over my head too! Go on, enlighten us....???
 
Dear oh dear, did you do a formal apprenticeship Andy luv???......... :eek: :eek:
 
Nah I didn't, but that's another debate ;)

So you gonna tell me what i'm missing out on with this removal of wires to check polarity? :D
 
3 pages on an absolute basic item.. Should this not be done in the CC so it can get up to 5 or 6 :LOL: :LOL:
 
Delta T wrote

We had this ex-BG CPS working for us for a very short time & I asked him if he had done an inclined polarity check or a cross bonded ionization test.........whoooooosh!! straight over his head...........


You really should try to get out more, enjoy yourself its later than you think
 
Unswitched single socket & plug is always better.
arguably yes as you can quickly disconnect the supply including the earth connection,and easily use your meter probes on the the pins,but IMO a fused connection unit always looks better

If you are fault finding the boiler & doing a polarity test, you need to remove the wires from a DP/switch.

sorry I'm with petit here,you may have been taught that way delta but you don't need to remove any wires at all to test for polarity
a plug top is easier, yes agreed just dont agree on the "need to" statement
 
Forgive me for taking a step back, but for the OP - definitely upgrade to the 28. We went from an old Worcester 24 to a new Vaillant 28 and the difference is fantastic. We're only in a two up two down and the 24 could barely cope with the heating and h/w for that.

We went with the fused spur option by the way! ;)

Out of interest how much are BG charging you for the 24. We went with a local installer and would be interesting to see the difference.

Alan
 
Alan, we have not confirmed with BG yet, but the price for the Vaillant EcoTec Pro 24kw HE Condensing combination boiler is £730.87.

Regarding the 24Kw/28Kw, we are going on the advice of the BG Engineer, why would he undersell?
 

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