Gas hob/Electronic Ignition connection query.

but then if a fault develops you will lose all your cooking facility, my way you could disconnect one or other to allow you to use something.
 
Riz do it or get it done my way materials £20 ish, then you control oven and hob via cooker switch above worksurface but if a fault develops in either appliance you can disconnect them without taking them out of the units etc
 
but then if a fault develops you will lose all your cooking facility
Happens a lot, does it?
i dont realy know or care but if your going to rewire it behind you might as well do it the way i suggested, then you have covered it for the future.
Riz i would do it the way i suggested if you do it another way thats up to you, take a 6mm from the outlet behind your oven into the cupboard alongside and wire or get it wired as i suggested.
can you ask a local electrician to pop in and get his views or ask him if he would do it as i suggested for the reasons i gave.
 
Yes you can split the feed for the ignition.
But if your oven is only demanding 13Amp or less, you could also consider a double socket outlet instead of the FCU and plug both the oven and hob in to it.
ban, PrenticeBoyofDerry was saying Riz could split the feed for the oven and hob, therefore why not put the 6mm cable into a double socket if the oven was 13A, which is what i thought he was getting at, come back in on this Prentice
Hello 8)
Indeed I was saying a double socket outlet could be used to supply both 13A or less oven and the ignition for gas hob.
Seems a simple addition to an existing circuit is causing a lot of problems.
So back to the OP:
Lets get this right!
You have a CCU under worktop, in a kitchen unit?
This is installed in 6.00mm cable and protected by a 45A device.
You want to supply your cooker with a feed and your gas hob.
Does the flex on the hob reach the socket outlet on the CCU?
If so plug it in to that!
The next step would be now to offer your oven a feed, I would always use the same cable size on a circuit, unless I was offering discrimination by down fusing. So stick with 6.00mm and either install a FCU or downsize your 45A MCB to something more suitable for the demand, maybe 10 or 16A.
If flex for hob does not reach, replace it for longer length.
 
I have a 45A fuse in the newly fitted Consumer unit feeding via 6mm t&e into

THIS

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wall mounted

above worktop height



then into a 45A Cooker Outlet like this

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mounted BELOW the worktop height
 
hi Riz, i have given you what i would do and the reasons why, and i have been saying it since my 2nd post, not sure why you just dont do it that way, no disturbing anything above the worksurface and independant control over oven & hob.
 
having just read through three pages!! i come to the conclusion !. the OP is not Competent to do the work (I:E registered for Notifiable work) and 2. not one mention of suitability of wiring a hob to a supply with the correct fuse rating!
come on guys this is basic stuff, I would fail the hob if I found it directly wired without the correct fuse.
 
i`m sure Riz will fit the correct fuse when he puts a plug on the flex and plugs it into the new cooker control unit in the cupboard :-)
 
i`m sure Riz will fit the correct fuse when he puts a plug on the flex and plugs it into the new cooker control unit in the cupboard :-)

if he goes down that route then fine, but the way i read this?, it has been suggested other ways as well which are not correct Maybe i have read it wrong?
 
Change the outlet plate to a double socket outlet, then make sure you have a 13A fuse in the oven's plug and small 3amp in the ignition.

One thing to think about is 45A device, 30A rated CCU!
 
:D this is what you suggested in the first reply and i agreed with in the second reply, we are going round in circles lol
 

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