# Gas hob ignition & electric oven on the same switch

More volts doesnt generally reduce the current on a resistive heater. It will not magically stay at 2.99kw if its rated at 230v and you feed it 240v, it will simply draw more power.

It doesn't work like that; the resistance is constant, Wattage and Amperage goes up and down with the Voltage; but if it comes with a plug then it will be alright to plug it in.

At what Voltage is the 2.99kW stated?

2.99kW @ 240V is 12.5A which will be
2.76kW @ 230V and 12A, and
3.15kW @ 246V and 12.8A

My new Neff oven is rated at 2.99kw and came with a plug. Germany assumes 230 volts mains and so the oven draws 13 amps over there. But here it is around 240v mains and so the oven will draw about 12.5 amps. My mains are always between 242-246 volts in fact, so well below the plug threshold.
No, that arithmetic is not correct..

IF the oven really were rated (by the the Germans) as 2.99kW at 230V (which would be unusual - most companies quote powers of their products at 240v, to may them sound more powerful for people with 230V supplies!), then it would draw 14.16A (and have a power of 3.40 kW) at 240V (and 14.87A at 246A).

However, if you read the small print, I think it likely that you will find that the 2.99 kW relates to 240 (as you say, about 12.5A), which equates to 13A at 230V.

Kind Regards, John

The little plate in the door says 220-240 volts 50Hz/60Hz 2.99KW. So how do Hz affect it?

So how do Hz affect it?

Motor speed ( fans etc ) can be frequency dependent and inductive transformers will have different impedances ( similar to resistance ) depending on frequency of the AC supply fed to them

It can't be 2.99kW at both Voltages.

I think it safe to assume it is at 240V - otherwise it would be higher than specified; lower is not as important.

It can't be 2.99kW at both Voltages.

I think it safe to assume it is at 240V - otherwise it would be higher than specified; lower is not as important.

Exactly. The 2.99 kW will be at 240V, as you say - worst case power consumption

I suppose another possibility, to avoid "potentially" overloading a 13A fuse, would be to use the IEC60309 16A plug and socket for the oven, connecting the socket to the incoming 6mm² cable from the dis. board (with a 2.5mm² spur to a 13A socket for the hob ignition). The flex to the cooker will be protected by the fact that the oven will not, in operation, draw more than its rated power, and in the event of a fault, the OPD is the dis. board will (should) disconnect before the flex to the oven becomes damaged.

I suppose another possibility, to avoid "potentially" overloading a 13A fuse, would be to use the IEC60309 16A plug and socket for the oven ...
I think only a 'possibility' if you could find a shuttered version of such a socket - and really totally unnecessary (and exceptionally bulky/ugly in a domestic environment) given that this oven is not going to, even 'potentially', overload a 13A fuse

Kind Regards, John

I suppose another possibility, to avoid "potentially" overloading a 13A fuse, would be to use the IEC60309 16A plug and socket for the oven,
Why not just use a normal Cooker Connection Unit - and socket.

I suppose another possibility, to avoid "potentially" overloading a 13A fuse, would be to use the IEC60309 16A plug and socket for the oven, connecting the socket to the incoming 6mm² cable from the dis. board (with a 2.5mm² spur to a 13A socket for the hob ignition). The flex to the cooker will be protected by the fact that the oven will not, in operation, draw more than its rated power, and in the event of a fault, the OPD is the dis. board will (should) disconnect before the flex to the oven becomes damaged.

A 16A plug must be protected by a 16A MCB, so no that's not a possibility in the way that you describe it.

A 16A plug must be protected by a 16A MCB, so no that's not a possibility in the way that you describe it.
... and, as I said, in a domestic environment the 16A socket should be shuttered.

Kind Regards, John

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