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you may find it takes a bit more time to get the adjustment right for the gridswitch protruding through the cover, and sometimes find the actual grid screws are too short to reach the box lugs to get it right.
The other problem is that the grid can't go really flush as the plastic lip of the box sits on top of the plaster. I've had to nibble away at it (with my cutters) before now to get the grid to sit better. Better really to batten out and fit a proper grid box if possible.
you get the same problem with all dry lining boxes.. sockets don't sit fluch either..
you're supposed to fit them before the wall is skimmed.. the plaster makes up the difference..
if you're retro fitting, score round the box with a knife and use a wood chisel to scrape a layer of plaster away so it sits flush.. ( usually said skim, but you can dig into the board too.. )
you get the same problem with all dry lining boxes.. sockets don't sit fluch either..
you're supposed to fit them before the wall is skimmed.. the plaster makes up the difference..
Ugh. What a terrible, terrible thing to do, and something that I absolutely loathe to see done. All that happens is that as soon as an accessory is lifted off the wall, the extremely thin plaster skim blows off around the plastic flange of the backbox. God forbid if you need to remove the box for access...
a quick rub round the rim with some vaseline, lipsol, tallow etc stops the plaster sticking to the face and edges of the box, leaving a perfect slot for it..
alternatively, run a knife round the edge before removing the box or prior to second fixing..
if you're retro fitting, score round the box with a knife and use a wood chisel to scrape a layer of plaster away so it sits flush.. ( usually said skim, but you can dig into the board too.. )
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