suggest final test (tonight) just open thje ABV fully with pump on full speed 3 and note power then full open on CP1, again note power.
CP1 difficult to tell if there is a change with ABV open shows 16W when closed either 15W or 16W though.
On fixed speed 3, 40W ABV closed, 42W ABV Open
Was/is the system clean including F&E?
Some of the ripped out lower radiators had a small amount sludge, one of the old 30+ year old TRVs was a bit sludged up, magnetite filter was quite clean. F&E tank was quite clean, the cylinder must have been replaced in 2021 or later as it has a Jan 21 manufacture date on it. The F&E tank and cold water tank in the loft both look quite new.
Have you a close coupled system, vent and cold feed, from the boiler, vent then cold feed then the pump?
Boiler is in a utility room downstairs, massive feed pipe larger than 28mm (not measured it), 2 return pipes 22mm and 28mm. Pump is upstairs next to cylinder, the large feed pipe after routing around the garage and into the kitchen goes vertical to a T reducing to 28mm with a 22mm straight up into the loft, centre of the T is 28mm, after a short distance a second T with another 22mm pipe up into the loft. It then elbows downwards and the pump is mounted vertical, below the pump is a T with the CH and HW valves.
What mode/setting pump before mods?
Not sure, when boiler was serviced (not sure guy new what he was doing) he whacked it onto fixed speed 3 and said that will get the water round quick.
Did your system work OK before mods?
System wasn't great, the radiators looked ready to fail, a few valves had slight leaks and looked a bit scaled up, it had 1970s style skirting radiators downstairs, we got some heat from the system but I didn't check if the boiler was short cycling like it is now.
As I thought the system was finished I added a bottle of Fernox F3 cleaner on the last refill which I was planning to circulate for a week before adding the inhibitor.
Any thoughts? I'm still hearing gurgling and bubling but no air coming out of rads.