Grundfos ups3 making noise

[noddy997]

Bleeding: You just press the button on the front once and within 5 seconds it will do some fancy footwork like speeding the pump up and down for 10 minutes or so, if you press it twice it will do something similar after 5 secs, for 10 minutes, I've installed three or four (6M) for relations and didn't bother with it, when I install the pump I tighten up the inlet flange but let the outlet loose and crack open the inlet valve to get any air/water out, I then tighten up the outlet flange.

Setting the modes: the CC (fixed speed) modes I,II, III, in the middle (C1,C2, C3) will flash whichever one you've selected, C1 or C2 or C3, C1 is 2M, C2 is 3.8M and C2 is 6M, suggest C2 initially, if you turn the setting switch to the right (constant pressure or CP mode) of these CC modes, the selected head will flash for a few seconds and the display then changes to show the power in watts and also (now) the flow rate in m3/hr, each time you move it, even by a 0.1M increment it will again flash for a few seconds and then display the power/flowrate. Turning the selector switch to the left of the CC settings works the same way but you are now in proportional pressure, PP mode.

Whatever you are doing, either installing a new pump or removing/re installing a old one, ensure that you flush from both sides.

What do you mean flush from both sides?

My. Magnaclean was full though! Could be the cause.

I've also rotated the screen, but don't know if i overtightened the screws

But the house symbols to the left are for number of rads etc according to the manual?

Once it completes the air releasing programme where does it push the air to?

 

[Johntheo5]

So, you have installed what?, the 6M Wilo Yonos Pico?, you say you have rotated the screen, I hope you mean you just removed the 4 bolts and rotated the whole head?,

Also, forget about the 10minute venting, the boiler may go into anticycle but the pump should continue running, put it on C2 and see what happens.

 

[noddy997]

So, you have installed what?, the 6M Wilo Yonos Pico?, you say you have rotated the screen, I hope you mean you just removed the 4 bolts and rotated the whole head?,

Please see edited post above

 

[Johntheo5]

It's doing its 10 minute air release in that photo. It should then, I think, start up in whatever mode you have selected, I will check my own later on, if it isn't then switch off the mains supply to the boiler. Switch it back on and the pump should restart in C2 mode or whatever.

What does it do with the air??, it just pushes it into the system, shouldn't be much in the pump body and none if you installed it like I do.

 

[noddy997]

It's doing its 10 minute air release in that photo. It should then, I think, start up in whatever mode you have selected, I will check my own later on, if it isn't then switch off the mains supply to the boiler. Switch it back on and the pump should restart in C2 mode or whatever.

What does it do with the air??, it just pushes it into the system, shouldn't be much in the pump body and none if you installed it like I do.

5m head on the PP side is quieter but the head isn't too low or high. Are the modes on the right more for underfloor heating?

 

[Johntheo5]

What watts and m3/hr is it showing on PP5, The rads will run perfectly well in CP mode, turn the dial to the right until you get a flashing say 4M, read off the Watts and flowrate and post back.

Ideally, when setting up, with all TRVs ( if installed) or zone valves opened, set it in CP mode to give you the required flowrate, then note the power, watts, and the flowrate, m3/hr, switch it over to PP mode and keep adjusting it until you get the same power watts that you got in CP mode, thats it, but some are happier running it constantly in CP mode or CC2 or CC3, I run mine in PP mode, a PP setting of 4.6M results in my equired head of ~ 3.2M to suit my 10 rads., the power is initially ~ 22/24 watts and falls to as low as 14/16 watts as the TRVs throttle down.

 

[noddy997]

What watts and m3/hr is it showing on PP5, The rads will run perfectly well in CP mode, turn the dial to the right until you get a flashing say 4M, read off the Watts and flowrate and post back.

Ideally, when setting up, with all TRVs ( if installed) or zone valves opened, set it in CP mode to give you the required flowrate, then note the power, watts, and the flowrate, m3/hr, switch it over to PP mode and keep adjusting it until you get the same power watts that you got in PP mode, thats it, but some are happier running it constantly in CP mode or CC2 or CC3, I run mine in PP mode, a PP setting of 4.6M results in my equired head of ~ 3.2M to suit my 10 rads., the power is initially ~ 22/24 watts and falls to as low as 14/16 watts as the TRVs throttle down.

24w anf 0.6m3
With it on 5 on blue side the rads are bit warmer at the bottom, before on the ups3 they were cold.

Bathroom towel rad still cold. If i put it on 6m it will definitely heat up. Other issue is with HW on same time it would cause rads to go colder with a lower setting

On 5 red side its 34w 0.6m3/.7

The vibrating and buzzing has started again... A pipe on the joist and the insulation was slightly off...

 

[Johntheo5]

OK, just want to see what the max power draw/output is,
Can you put it to C3 for 30 secs or so and note the watts/flowrate.
then put it hard over to the right CP setting and again note the watts/flowrate. also note flashing head in M.
Return it then to your original setting which is??.

 

[noddy997]

OK, just want to see what the max power draw/output is,
Can you put it to C3 for 30 secs or so and note the watts/flowrate.
then put it hard over to the right CP setting and again note the watts/flowrate. also note flashing head in M.
Return it then to your original setting which is??.

I've put it on c3 for nearly an hour now and it's 40w and 0.8

Look what i found inside the ups3

 

[Johntheo5]

It doesn't say much for the flushing out or whatever is supposed to be done after that proper power flush, is that stuff in the impeller hard or soft?.

 

[noddy997]

It doesn't say much for the flushing out or whatever is supposed to be done after that proper power flush, is that stuff in the impeller hard or soft?.

Hard bits. Poweflush was done in Oct with old ups3. I was present water was crystal clear. Even bleeding rads water is clear.

Water from ups3 today was light yellow.

The magna clean was full. This is first time i opened it since fitted in Oct.

I will check it daily from now on.

Is there anything I can add to the system that would break down hard sludge / magnite in system?

With pump on C3 the convector rads are hot at the bottom as well! C3 is the required speed as I've suffered with the rads being cold at bottom on C2. Towel rad still poor!

 

[ant2]

You can put cleaners through the system i.eSentinel X800
I paid for a power flush and found it a waste of time and money, they are not thorough enough.
Bear in mine I fitted brand new radiators everywhere (except 2 towel rails and 1 rad)
Once they had finished I filled the system and emptied it more than 5-6 times until the water came clear. I then put in some of that cleaner a few days before I had to drain down (again) for more work and flushed more crap out.


My suggestion is keep flushing till it's clean, cleaner in , let it pump around for another week or so, ensuring your magnaclean is constantly cleaned out too and then add inhibitor. Like me you have an UFH so you can actually see the colour of the water without draining if you have those flow guages, I keep an eye on this every year or two, but once all that crap is out, you have no radiators and you are on a sealed system, the water doesn't get contaminated.