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Hang radiator on aerated block wall?

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by Dain1, 28 Nov 2018.

  1. Dain1

    Dain1

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    I was going to just drill out and glue in some dowel, nice and deep.

    Rad (1200x400 4000btu) will go below window, is that a good idea? Are aerated block walls prone to cracking if you hang a rad on them?

    Thank y'all kindly.

    Dain
     
  2. fixitflav

    fixitflav

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    There are fixings available for all sorts of material, plasterboard (cavity fixings), through to solid stuff like brick or concrete. About 40 years ago I hung shelf brackets to an aerated block wall (bare, in a garage) using 2" No. 10 woodscrews straight in, no plugs. Lasted years till converted the garage to a bedroom. That was Celcon blocks, didn't find Thermalite was as good, but things might have changed.
    Don't make a DIYers common mistake when mounting to a wall with 12-15mm cement render plus 3mm plaster, of using a plug about 25mm long and tapping in till it's level with the surface. The plug needs to be in something firm, with screw length to suit.
     
  3. securespark

    securespark

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    Looks like screwing straight in with a wood screw holds really well! Although the guy is a bit of a disaster...
     
    Last edited: 28 Nov 2018
  4. fixitflav

    fixitflav

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    Is that an Australian comedy turn?

    Woodscrews straight in seemed to give best results. Modern fully-threaded woodscrews probably better than the ones I used. If the OP wants to do that, I would suggest doing a couple of tests in a different place, to get the pilot hole dia just right. Should be OK, the load is moderate and nearly all in shear, not pull-out.
     
  5. Dain1

    Dain1

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    Actually, that reminds me..

    I have fired a couple of 90mm drywall screws in to aerated blocks before now, to support mirrors etc, they have really wide threads and, with a short pilot hole, that sort of depth really does get a good key.

    They are quite tensile, I'll see how difficult it is to shear one. Failing that it's back to a deep dowel, glued in, with a long screw

    Thanks for the nudge.
     
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