Help needed powering a man cave in the garden.

Aye aye chaps. Shifted discussion :) This is one for the pub.
Indeed - as I wrote to eric ...
We've been over that countless times and, as has been said, that one would be fine in a debating chamber, or in a bar with a glass in one's hand ....
I was simply wondering how to get juice to my man cave without running the risk of tripping over my current extension lead to the garage setup ;)
Yes, I realise that. However, as I said way back, before the 'distractions' arose, before we can help you we really know what will be the electrical requirements in your man cave and what are the capabilities of that existing circuit (which used to supply a pump). Can you help us with answers to those questions?

Kind Regards, John
 
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Cheers Eric, I do plan on doing it safely mate.

I'm just not sure of how to exit the wall with the wire to make it look respectable and if I could buy the cable with the connector type already attached.
 
Thanks. Okay guys, some more info re my request for help...

This is the consumer unit for the man cave:

5 x LED lights

4 x double sockets (rarely used)

Electric UFH 1500watt

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And this is the consumer unit for the garage / apartment upstairs.

No. 3 is the switch for the pump / single light that I have wired into its old place :)

IMG_9911.JPG
 
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This is the consumer unit for the man cave: 5 x LED lights .... 4 x double sockets (rarely used) ... Electric UFH 1500watt ....
And this is the consumer unit for the garage / apartment upstairs. .... No. 3 is the switch for the pump / single light that I have wired into its old place :)
OK - thanks. A lot depends upon what you might (now or in the future) want to plug into those four "rarely used" double sockets - can you say anything else about that.

The circuit you're planning to use currently has a 16A MCB, which would allow for a total load of about 3,680 Watts (including the UFH) - so about 2,180 Watts in addition to the UFH. It may be possible to increase the MCB rating (maybe to 20A, perhaps even 25A), to provide a bit more capacity, but that depends upon the size of cable in which it's wired - do you happen to know what that is?

Kind Regards, John
 
OK - thanks. A lot depends upon what you might (now or in the future) want to plug into those four "rarely used" double sockets - can you say anything else about that.

The circuit you're planning to use currently has a 16A MCB, which would allow for a total load of about 3,680 Watts (including the UFH) - so about 2,180 Watts in addition to the UFH. It may be possible to increase the MCB rating (maybe to 20A, perhaps even 25A), to provide a bit more capacity, but that depends upon the size of cable in which it's wired - do you happen to know what that is?

Kind Regards, John

Hi and many thanks for the help. The socket simply exist. One or two of them may be used for a side light or to charge a phone / laptop occasionally. If that helps any?

I'm not sure what size cable was used. Here are photos of the cable that enters the top of the consumer unit (with a plug beside for some scale) and also a photo of the wires to a plug socket.

Thanks. :)
 

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Personally, if you're running in new cable (at a reasonably high cost) imho it's worth burying a sizeable cable as future proofing? Ok so you won't be running some kind of machine shop but even still, skimping could be a bad move.
It's realativly easy to upgrade the supply if the existing cable can take it, down the line
 
Hi and many thanks for the help. The socket simply exist. One or two of them may be used for a side light or to charge a phone / laptop occasionally. If that helps any?
It doesn't help all that much, since you really need to try to predict what might one day be plugged in - particularly if it might involve things which produce heat or 'power tools' (including garden ones) etc. Use for "...a side light or to charge a phone / laptop occasionally.." is not only 'trivial' but would not require anything like "4 double sockets" - so there presumably are some other thoughts in the back of your mind. It makes far more sense to over-estimate your future requirements at this stage!.
I'm not sure what size cable was used. Here are photos of the cable that enters the top of the consumer unit (with a plug beside for some scale) and also a photo of the wires to a plug socket.
It's not really possible to determine from the photos with any confidence what size cable that is - you'd really need an electrician to ascertain that. There should, by the way, be yellow/.green sleeving over those bare 'earth wires'.

Kind Regards, John
 
Personally, if you're running in new cable (at a reasonably high cost) imho it's worth burying a sizeable cable as future proofing? Ok so you won't be running some kind of machine shop but even still, skimping could be a bad move.
It's realativly easy to upgrade the supply if the existing cable can take it, down the line

Thanks what cable would you recommend and do you happen to have any suggestions as to how I run for the switch originally posted and how to exit the wall? Many thanks
 
My armoured cable to the wall was diy and possibly not conforming to any rules but I drilled a hole at an angle downwards from inside. I then ran the cable outside at first, then stripped a bit of the cable armour where it was due to enter the wall.

From the ground, I slipped on a piece of plastic conduit to close to the ground and where the hole was, fitted a plastic conduit box over the hole, using mastic and screws so it was weatherproof over the entry.

The insulated but unarmoured cables went through the wall and the cover was fitted.

This is probably incorrect so check the rules. I used a box inside my garage to make a connection.
Please check the rules. Mine was 10+ years ago
 
Hello mate many thanks for the helpful reply and apologies for my late reply.

Thats very helpful, have a great day.
 
There is no point having a 30 mA type AC RCD supplied from a 30 mA type A RCD, you want it done proper, so the first thing is sort out the supply. Having one 30 mA RCD feeding 7 MCB's is asking for problems, and a mixture of BG, Hager and Wylex in same box is clearly not correct, and working inside a live distribution board is not permitted even for an electrician, although we have been known to work on live stuff even if not allowed.

I would say swap the type A for an isolator and replace all the MCB's with RCBO's is likely the first job, but as @JohnW2 says you really need an electrician. There seems to be no point in replacing one lash up for another lash up.
 

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