HELP - Oil Boiler Problem

[chris888]

Hi

I have a leak at an oil boiler, hoping someone could give me some advice.
I am not a plumber, just a bit of a handyman.

The oil boiler is about 5 years ago (open vented system), it is a warmflow 70/90 standard efficiency oil boiler (NOT condensing). There is a valve at the top side of the boiler casing and it is leaking at least 1 cupful of water every day.
I have attached a picture of the boiler / valve.

My questions are:
1. What type of valve is it? Is it just a Automatic bottle type air valve.
It says at the top of the valve 110 degrees C, 10 Bar
2. I'm a right in thinking that it needs replaced, if its leaking this much water.
Or is there some way of cleaning/fixing it to stop the leak,
Or is there some other reason why this valve is leaking
3. If it needs replacing, is it just the valve that needs removed at the elbow or is the valve permanently attached to the elbow and therefore the
valve and elbow needs completely removed.

I know I would be capable of replacing the valve myself if it needs done.
All I'm looking for is some advice from the experts on here if you would be so kind to help me before I start.

Thanks

Untitled

• chris888
• 9 Feb 2011
• 1

Untitled

• chris888
• 9 Feb 2011
• 1

 

[muggles]

Looks like an automatic air vent, should screw out of the elbow. Not really serviceable, will need replacing

 

[45yearsagasman]

Def an auto air vent.To stop water leak(temp fix) just tighten the red dust cap.To replace the AAV it will unscrew from the elbow.Draining the system is the only option if your system is open vented and you don't know how to Bung.If you are not sure then a pro could do that in 30 mins.

 

[Tipper]

Don't be mislead here...the red cap should be loose for the automatic air release valve to work properly.

Tightening the cap is only a 'quick fix' to stop the mess while you get a new one sorted, you need a new valve.

 

[45yearsagasman]

Don't be mislead here...the red cap should be loose for the automatic air release valve to work properly.

Tightening the cap is only a 'quick fix' to stop the mess while you get a new one sorted, you need a new valve.

Isn't that what I just said

 

[Burnerman]

Its probably wise to bung the outlet and expansion pipe of the F/E tank in the loft, but if you're feeling lucky, unscrew the old one (having the new one nicely PTFE'd and sealered) and stick your thumb over the end of the elbow.....
Just kidding really but I've done it - boiler stone cold, of course!
John

 

[Boilerman2]

As it is installed in a Boiler house I would be tempted to "snatch it"
just make sure the boiler is cold you don't want to scald your paws!!

 

[mysteryman]

They've usually got an automatic shut-off valve in the base connection, so you can change them easily.

 

[oilhead]

This one doesn't have the auto shut off valve, but you will be able to fit one with the new aav for when that fails!!! They all fail in time.

 

[sonicfury]

I know this thread is 11 years old, but I have a similar problem. Do I just need to replace the auto air vent or should I also replace the t piece with an elbow. Thanks .

 

[sonicfury]

I forgot to say this has been connected for 25 years.

 

[fixitflav]

Isn't that what I just said

If the previous posters are still around - as it's an open vented system, what's wrong with leaving it closed? Any air can escape up the vent. Open it now and then if he feels like it. I have a system with a manual vent in a similar position, only used after draindown. I might open it every couple of years if I think about it, but only water comes out.