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HELP!!! Oven broke after flicking MCB switch to OFF

Sorry folks am yet to get my hands on a continuity tester. However, i did read somewhere that the fan element sometimes goes on the Diplomat ovens. Could this be the root of my problem. Or should i stick with the socket testing first?
thanks
 
Did you check the fuse in the oven plug top? Also no-one has asked why you 'flicked off the MCB switch'. Do you mean the cicuit breaker in the fuse board? Why did you do this? - it is designed to provide cicuit protection, not switching, but if you have damaged this then your hob ignition wouldn't be working. Some appliances have internal fuses so if you can establish that you have 230/240 volts at the socket check with the manufacturers spares dept or you may be able to get a spares list from their web-site and identify if and where the fuse is located.
 
Have tested the socket and the voltage output is 410v. So i imagine the problem is with the oven.

My reason for flicking the circuit breaker to off was to change a light bulb which i thought was on the same circuit. The light bulb has two switches> I wasn't sure whether the light was on or off so as a precaution i decided to break the circuit. This was all done whilst the oven was heating up. Hence the oven no longer works. On the plus side i managed to change the bulb without electrocuting myself.
 
Just a thought but if you switched off the power when the oven was hot, and it has a fan which keeps the oven temperature within given limits, then an over heat stat may have tripped and need to be manually reset.

You may find one in the top of the oven but have to remove the top covers to gain access.

It will probably have a little red button that will click when you press it in.

Needless to say, turn off the electricity before removing any protective covers.

Tim
 
Thanks folks for the replies folks.

Do you mean the panels at the rear of the oven? That is where both the fan and oven light are positioned. Will give it a go tonight and see if this switch exists.

Does 410v output sound right for a plug socket i tested a couple of other plugs in the flat and got the same reading?. The tester i was using was a pretty basic one with three LED displays for three different voltage outputs and my plugs lit up all three.

Thanks
 
RB2004 should give some thought to the fact that some of the people posting here don't even know what the supply voltage is.
 
I think its right to describe you voltage measuring thing as a "voltage indicator", and not an instrument that lets you know what the voltage actually is.

The problem many people have when they are trying to learn about anything technical is that they can be misled by cheap equipment and so can become confused, I have in the past.

Probably the glow from the 240 led is partly illuminating the 415 bit, however, if you intend to do things like fix the cooker for the rest of your life, then the purchase of a more dependable instrument is advisable.

I think I am right in saying that if you plug in a table lamp to your socket out let and it some how had 415v AC powering it the bulb would get very bright and then snuff it, but I may be wrong.

You could get a digital multimeter and if looked after it could last you a life time.

But, do be careful, as electricity,

unlike gas does not smell,

and unlike water does not drip,

it just ELECTRICUTES you.


Tim
 
Ollie, you have power to the socket, but is it getting past the plug top fuse??? Steal a 13 amp fuse from an extension lead or electric fire, and see if this makes it work.

I had a fuse blow on me a few weeks ago, when I removed power from my big speakers without turning them off. Its easily done.




Further to securespark's comments about the clock (though may not be relevant), I have a gas oven with electronic clock and countdown facility, like a microwave, it will turn off the oven when the counter expires. When you restore power you have to set the clock at least one minute, a relay clunks deep in the oven to let you know you can use the oven. :)
 
I have changed the fuse on the plug twice, but still no luck.

Removed the rear panel from inside the oven but unable to locate any reset switch.

Plugged the kettle into the same socket which worked fine.

The options appear to be running out.
 
If the plugtop fuse has not failed, and the socket works with another appliance, you have an internal fault.

Did you find any kind of thermal trip/reset button??
 
Did you find any kind of thermal trip/reset button??
Removed the first panel at the rear of the oven but no trip switch. Could it be located behind the fan?
If so that will require removing a second panel and possibly the fan, this looks like a task for perhaps a qualified electrician???
 

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