Help - splintered top layer of engineered floor.

[huw169]

Absolutely gutted!
Just finished and had to move an old matress out. There must have been a tiny imperfection in the finishing of the top surface and the material of the matress 'picked it up'.
The result is a 100mm long lift which maxes out at about 20mm wide.

I have bonded it with PVA and knocked it back in to place as best as possible. I then sat some weight on it, but it is still a little raised and the tip of the splinter in missing leaving a 20mm long by 5mm wide groove at the leading edge.

I really need to rub it back level and fill the leading edge with something so that it doesn't get caught again.

Any tips on how best to achieve a good end result??
The floor is Engineered Riviera oak with an oiled finish from source wood floors. http://www.sourcewoodfloors.co.uk/shop/riviera-oak-oiled.html
Any help would be greatly recieved.
Thanks
Huw

 

[mattysupra]

i would consider changing the board/plank. Is it a lock together wood or a glue together? or even fully bonded to the subfloor?


could you uplift it easy in other words?

 

[huw169]

No chance of it coming up. It is fully bonded tongue and groove.
Cheers. Huw

 

[mattysupra]

you can replace just a plank in the middle of the room then if its fully bonded pretty easy.


You do mean fully bonded to the floor underneath? or do you mean floating and tongue + groove is glued together with PVA?

 

[WoodYouLike]

Some boards - no matter what quality - can have a "splinter" that is hardly noticeable when you install the boards but comes loose when something catches on it. (It's an "imperfection" in the wood, usually caused by a weak spot in the tree which get worse when the tree is cut down and falls down but is not always picked up during production of the wood floor).

Mattysupra is right, if the floor is glued T&G only you can replace the board by cutting it in half and then carefully remove the two pieces. Remove the left over tongue from the groove of the connecting board. Cut the bottom part of the groove of the new board away, add adhesive on the tongue and the "groove" and slide the board in place. Place a weight on it for at least an hour or 3.

 

[mattysupra]

to make it a bit clearer, you can replace a board in the middle of the room if its glue down, floating with pva, and nailed down.

But lock and click together floors can be a problem. Some are easy to do and some you cant do it. But these floors are designed to be uplifted easy so you may have to take up part of the floor instead of just 1 plank.

 

[huw169]

Many thanks for your advice. I have plenty of planks left over, but I would rather try the repair root first.
Do you know of anyone in the Portsmouth area I could get in to do which ever option it needs?
I am confident enough to lay the floor,but removing a plank is a bit much.
I'm Chuffed to know all is not lost though.
Thanks again for your help.
Huw

 

[Petest67]

It's listed as a rustic grade - does it have many filled knots?
If so, you could use some hard wax to fill the missing section.
If you can find out which oil has been used you can sand down the high spot, fill the missing area and re-oil (with the same brand).
As you havesome spare planks try sand and oil on one to make sure it blends in well first.
Otherwise do a board replacement.
Try to use create a knot as below

http://www.sourcewoodfloors.co.uk/images/shopItems/originals/387.jpg