Honda GCV135 - slowing throttle control speeds up the engine....is it just backwards!?

[Aristotle's Lantern]

I've been given an old powered barrow and am working my way through servicing the engine.

Originally I couldn't get it to start - I've replaced the carb and can get now get it to start (with the bit of carb cleaner in the air intake). I think the linkages to the carb are in the right holes - but - the butterfly valve in the carb only goes into the closed position when the engine throttle lever is set to STOP. The engine also increases RPM when I decrease the throttle control lever.

In my inexperienced eyes this seems to me like the lever control has been replaced at some point with the bowden cable backwards? As I'm new to this, before I go tinkering with the governor or fiddling with the bowden cable I figure it's better to get a second opinion from folk who might have more experience with this kind of engine. If there's something else at fault I don't want to go moving things out of adjustment...

attached video (VOLUME WARNING there's a loud squeak coming from the starter pull assembly which is nasty on the ears), also a couple of pictures of how I've got the carb set up with the throttle linkages etc...

 

[JohnD]

A bowden cable can only pull, not push. It would be difficult to fit it backwards.

I have no knowledge of your machine but it is not unusual for a carburettor to have a main jet and a slow-running jet.

A jet can be blocked by dried fuel residue during storage.

In this case, the engine will run OK at one throttle opening, but not at the other.

I have had it happen when the slow-running jet is blocked, which I should think is more common as it is smaller.

 

[les_danger]

When you swapped out the carb were they identical i.e. holes and everything in the right place, and was it ever working correctly on the last one?

Sorry i'm sure that's not helpful! But I've been running a very similar arrangement on a honda hrb lawnmower for over 20yrs now and they're well built, I find with the carbs cleaning the OEM ones better than buying aftermarket. As you say something's the wrong way around.

 

[Burnerman]

Lower pic, the choke rod is in the wrong hole of the plastic quadrant. The choke flap must be fully closed to allow a cold start.
Hope this helps but I'm restricted with a tiny screen right now!
John

 

[Aristotle's Lantern]

I couldn't get the engine to run at all with the carburetor that was originally on it. I cleaned it thoroughly but I think one of the two tiny jets that jet fuel near the butterfly were damaged as I could only see one in the throat. It's start with carb spray but immediately die. I need to check if my cheap ebay one has butterflies in the same orientation.

Burnerman - with the choke linkage arm in the other hole it wouldn't actuate the choke with the throttle lever in any position, in this configuration it does close the choke butterfly - it just seems to do it in the "STOP" position - another reason I think the throttle lever is backwards. If the symbols for "Start - rabbit - tortoise - stop" were reversed and you ignore the surging then the engine works as intended. I do have a contact for the original owner of the barrow so I need to see if he can remember if he operated the lever backwards.