Hot Water not lasting as long and radiators taking longer to heat up

[fixitflav]

It could prove to be, the OP's pipework is choked up with debris, hence the noisy pump, and poor performance, but hopefully not.

My guess is vibrating pump is more likely a pump problem than blockage elsewhere, and easier to check. But we'll see, hopefully.

 

[Adam Bill]

What temperature is the boiler output set for? Some boilers have a single boiler temperature setting for both HW and CH, others have separate settings for each mode.

To test the 3-port valve operation, the OP simply needs to turn on and off, in turn, the HW, then CH. He should then hear the actuator react, to the changes in demand. If the suspicion is that the actual valve itself might be stuck, and the actuator head is removable - he could remove the actuator and try turning the valve spindle back and forth. It should almost turn, with finger pressure, but a pair of pliers might be needed.

If the actuator head, is not responding by moving, a common fault, is the motor failing. They can be bought quite cheaply, but not easy to fit, simpler to just buy a replacement actuator head.

I have turned heating and hot water on separately. I could not here anything from the valve or actuator when the CH came on, when the hot water came on I heard a noise as if with was reacting to something but the metal bit at the back of the valve didn't move at all on both occasions (not sure if it is meant to or not)

 

[Adam Bill]

Of note the vibrating appears to be when the pump is on 3 lines, when I move this to two as shown in the video the vibrating is much lower (don't know if I should put it on this or not though?).

 

[Adam Bill]

The video won't upload. It looks as though on 3 the pump is obviously working a lot harder and really vibrating but when I put on 2 it is much quieter and on the AutoAdapt setting is silent. I don't know if this will massively effect performance or whether I should do this?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I have turned heating and hot water on separately. I could not here anything from the valve or actuator when the CH came on, when the hot water came on I heard a noise as if with was reacting to something but the metal bit at the back of the valve didn't move at all on both occasions (not sure if it is meant to or not)

Is there anyone around, who can assist you?

You need to be at the valve, when in turn, the CH is turned on then a minute or two later, the HW is likewise turned on then off. The switching can be done either at the thermostats for each, or at the time-clock, with thermostats set high. Set to CH on, it should take maybe a minute for the valve to motor to the CH position, when turned to off, a spring winds the valve quickly back to the HW position. At the three possible positions of the valve, HW, HW + CH, and CH only, you should hear a sharp click, from the actuator head, as the microswitches operate.

Mode of operation is - time clock feeds the stat, the stat then feeds the valve, then the valve, once in the correct position feeds the boiler, and possible the pump, though some pumps are fed/instructed to run by the boiler.

 

[Adam Bill]

Thank you I will look to do that, I won't have someone to help with this until tomorrow so will post then. I can confirm there was definitely clicking when the HW was turned on.

 

[Adam Bill]

When I initially looked at the valve this grey metal bit was slightly to the right circles in red. I moved it to manual and released but it did not move back on its own as shown in a lot of the videos I had looked at it was just stuck and I had to move it myself back to auto and I move it all the way to the left (left of the red circle) and it does appear that the heating is heating up quicker. Could that have fixed it or just a coincidence?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Could that have fixed it or just a coincidence?

It could be either, or neither.

The lever moves the valve manually to latch it in the mid-position, HW + CH, so the system can be bled. The first time, CH is called for, under normal operation, the manual lever will self release. My own experience, suggests 3-port actuators are the least reliable part of a heating system. My system uses one, so I always have a spare, in the cupboard, ready to fit.

 

[Adam Bill]

It could be either, or neither.

The lever moves the valve manually to latch it in the mid-position, HW + CH, so the system can be bled. The first time, CH is called for, under normal operation, the manual lever will self release. My own experience, suggests 3-port actuators are the least reliable part of a heating system. My system uses one, so I always have a spare, in the cupboard, ready to fit.

I believe it could be this then as there is no movement from the valve at all by the looks of it! It makes the clicking noise but that metal bit at the back does not move.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I believe it could be this then as there is no movement from the valve at all by the looks of it! It makes the clicking noise but that metal bit at the back does not move.

Can the actuator head, be removed easily from the valve?

 

[ATTQ]

The video won't upload. It looks as though on 3 the pump is obviously working a lot harder and really vibrating but when I put on 2 it is much quieter and on the AutoAdapt setting is silent. I don't know if this will massively effect performance or whether I should do this?

Well I was going to suggest check the run capacitor but turns out it has a "permanent magnet synchronous motor" which doesnt need one and it doesn't have a way to easily check its spinning freely and doesn't seem like its just 4 bolts to take the head off to look at it. But it might have an app so thats all good. I honestly hate the way people insist on making something that can be simple more complicated

 

[fixitflav]

It looks as though on 3 the pump is obviously working a lot harder and really vibrating

I still think it's a good idea to open up the pump and see if it's full of muck.

 

[fixitflav]

and doesn't seem like its just 4 bolts to take the head off

I don't see why. From the photo it doesn't look like the older UPS models, but still appears to have 4 Allen-headed bolts.

 

[Adam Bill]

So should I be able to just unscrew the 4 bolts and check to see if it is full of muck? Will I need to turn all the electrics etc off

 

[Johntheo5]

The video won't upload. It looks as though on 3 the pump is obviously working a lot harder and really vibrating but when I put on 2 it is much quieter and on the AutoAdapt setting is silent. I don't know if this will massively effect performance or whether I should do this?

Can you post the exact make and model of pump, when you say setting 2, do you mean fixed speed also called CC (constant curve setting) 2?, auto adapt does nothing, if its a Grundfos.
Dont take anything off just yet, I can tell you the exact flowrate from the pump curves