How to approach laying a path here

[noseall]

what is ever under the slabs needs to be exactly the same density

Nonsense.

 

[Munroast]

Nonsense.

if you want it to stay good for a long time it needs its own base, balancing it partially on the concrete would be very cow-boyish

 

[noseall]

if you want it to stay good for a long time it needs its own base, balancing it partially on the concrete would be very cow-boyish

More nonsense.

 

[Munroast]

More nonsense.

instead of just blurting out the word 'nonsense' explain how you would do it successfully

 

[noseall]

instead of just blurting out the word 'nonsense' explain how you would do it successfully

Just dig out the soil, lay hardcore and lay. It can lap onto the concrete no problem.

 

[barki]

Indeed we aren't.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Is that really all the wall footing, or did it just overspill its trench at the top?

I'd have a dig alongside it, if there's nothing under the widest bits then slice them off with an angle grinder. Aim to get slabs in alongside the concrete, with a gap between them and the wall. Make this gap the narrowest you could reasonably slim it all down into, I'd guess 100mm which would be a normal-looking typical sized gap. Then put an inch or two of 10mm gravel in the gap over the concrete. You could get away with slicing/grinding downwards on the surface of the deeper wide bits, just to give enough height to cover it all with gravel without it peeking out.

Get the slabs central to the gate, then it will look right, like it was meant to be there.

 

[barki]

Wife picked 20x20 porcelains. I've got a big bag of type 1 coming and half a big bag of ballast for haunching in a run of concrete edges to the left side of the photo.

Tiles going down with fibre reinforced mortar slurry primer on the back of the tiles.

The depth of the exposed concrete in the photo is over 6" so I stopped digging there and, yes, presume it's all footings.

Currently planning to tile over it and right up to the wall since putting a 6" gravel strip doesn't seem to work.

Now would be the time to make a new plan if that's going to cause damp issues but, again, it's an open cart lodge with DPC at the top of the bricks......

I know I've been told further up this thread to just crack on with that it so can imagine some future surveyor telling me, when I come to sell, that its wrong and could cause damp etc. Perhaps I should tank/bitumen along the wall at the finished path height?

 

[Odds]

I'd use DPM to stop weeds in the future, some will grow anywhere.

It won't make a difference if weeds get a hold of the garden - roots will work their way under the slabs and matting.

Better off keeping them under control with weed killer.

 

[noseall]

Now would be the time to make a new plan if that's going to cause damp issues but, again, it's an open cart lodge with DPC at the top of the bricks......

I know I've been told further up this thread to just crack on with that it so can imagine some future surveyor telling me, when I come to sell, that its wrong and could cause damp etc. Perhaps I should tank/bitumen along the wall at the finished path height?

You are well below the threshold for DPC breach.

My only criticism would be of the bricks themselves and their frost rating. It might be an idea to coat the bricks with some Stormdry protection cream, if they are a bit chalky.

 

[barki]

Thanks.

Inside of the wall pictured below - note DPC at ground level and also at the top. Seems odd to me.

External paving will bring the exterior level up to one brick above the lower DPC but well below the upper one. Until recently their was earth heaped all along here (half way up the wall) but I dug it back, cleaned up the wall and have already coated with masonry cream.

 

[barki]

Sorry I didn't mention that before, plot thickens

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

crack

I'd say that's a good prediction. How thick are your tiles? They're usually just a surface coating, they're not meant to be used as load-bearing concrete slabs.