1. Visiting from the US? Why not try DIYnot.US instead? Click here to continue to DIYnot.US.
    Dismiss Notice

How to connect a shaver socket to a light circuit?

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by jgreer, 12 May 2005.

  1. jgreer

    jgreer

    Joined:
    24 Jan 2005
    Messages:
    55
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    I recently decided to install a UK bathroom rated shaver socket in my bathroom. I purchased the socket and 1mm sq. two core and earth cable for the job. I want the shaver socket powered even when the lights are switched off

    I connected the cables to the shaver unit and mounted it into the wall with no problem (brown to L and blue to N and earth to earth). I ran the cable to the pull-string light switch in the bathroom. However, when I got ready to connect to the lighting circuit, I quickly became confused.

    According to my trusty collins DIY book, it states:
    I thought the pull-string switch was a junction box as well. Am I wrong? If so, do I need to install a junction box? My flat has cement ceiling and lighting circuit is run through embedded metal conduits. I don't see a junction box anywhere.

    Also, all images in my books show cables in the pull-string switch as standard (red, black, and earth or brown, blue, and earth), however, on my switch, there are only two red cables and an earth! I suppose that makes sense of the switch is just breaking the live wire connection.

    Either way, I'm confused. How am I supposed to get power to this thing?

    It may also be worth mentioning that the consumer unit is just centimeters away. Perhaps I could just pop it straight into a new fuse?
    All advice welcome

    Here's a link to a photo of my situation. Maybe this will clarify things.
    http://groups.msn.com/St-KatherinesDocksFlatRefurbish/electricity.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=23[/url]
     
  2. Sponsored Links
  3. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds

    Joined:
    27 Aug 2003
    Messages:
    69,783
    Thanks Received:
    2,857
    Location:
    London
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Yes.

    Yes.

    That's going to make things very difficult. What are the floors like? Can you easily get access under them to a socket circuit?

    There may well not be any.

    That's what light switches always do. Usually they are wired with regular cable, hence red/black or brown/blue, but occasionally red/red or brown/brown is used.

    With the wiring in conduit embedded in cement ceilings, it would be a great deal of hard and messy work to get a supply from there, and if by chance the conduit is providing the earth you'd have even more problems to deal with. I'd say that route is out.

    Which only leaves a socket circuit from under the floor.

    You've got the CU in your bathroom? :eek:
     
  4. Panjandrum

    Panjandrum

    Joined:
    3 Dec 2004
    Messages:
    287
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Well it might be 2,000 centimetres away at the other end of the (very big) house - or of course on the other side of the wall :) :)
     
  5. jgreer

    jgreer

    Joined:
    24 Jan 2005
    Messages:
    55
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    My consumer unit is contained within a wall which divides my bathroom from the hallway. The CU is mounted in this wall but faces the hallway.

    The light switch is on the ceiling of the bathroom, but just next to this wall. I could run this cable into the CU, right? Sounds like the junction box option is out of the question.

    Floor is cement too. Gotta love it!
    _______________________
    moderator

    jgreer, please note 10a

    Thanks, Moderator. I'll use the edit.
     
  6. plugwash

    plugwash

    Joined:
    28 Mar 2004
    Messages:
    9,301
    Thanks Received:
    330
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    yes you can run direct to the CU. either connect it to its own 6A breaker or to the breaker for the lighting cuircuit that serves the bathroom.

    if your CU is a split load remember to put the neutral in the correct neutral bar.

    EDIT: i typed two when i mean to
     
  7. bathjobby

    bathjobby

    Joined:
    6 Oct 2004
    Messages:
    1,200
    Thanks Received:
    18
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    I have to ask, is it worth it. If the appliances (shaver, toothbrush, etc) you want to use in there are of the rechargable variety, then it doesn't sound like it is worth the hassle. Just charge them elsewhere (1 or 2 times a month !) and take them in there to use.
     
  8. jgreer

    jgreer

    Joined:
    24 Jan 2005
    Messages:
    55
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
  9. mapj1

    mapj1

    Joined:
    24 Nov 2004
    Messages:
    1,043
    Thanks Received:
    2
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Hmm, looks best to go back to the CU , and assuming you cant re-use the conduit to the light fitting (where the supply will be) perhaps in square mini-trunking the corner between wall and cieling. you could then put coving over it if you wanted to lose the sight of the trunking.
    (the switch almost certainly only loops though the fitting.)
     
  10. Sponsored Links
  11. jgreer

    jgreer

    Joined:
    24 Jan 2005
    Messages:
    55
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Yes Mapj1,

    I plan to put in recessed lighting by adding a false ceiling the length of the bathroom. namely from the wall the CU is on to the opposite wall. It just won't extend width wise to cover the shelve nor the bath on the left.

    Question: Someone here mentioned patching the cable into the existing lighting circuit via the consumer unit.

    Can someone tell me in elementary steps how I would go about doing that? Can I use 1mm sq. cable or will I need to use a junction box to go to a 2.5mm cable? How would I do it, exactly?
     
  12. Big_Spark

    Big_Spark

    Joined:
    20 Feb 2004
    Messages:
    3,434
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    If yopu have to ask that question, you should not be messing with your consumer unit.

    Shaver Lights and sockets can be run directly from the lighting circuit, if you are adding a false cieling with recessed lights, then simply run an extra permanent live feed to the shaver light from this circuit.
     
  13. jgreer

    jgreer

    Joined:
    24 Jan 2005
    Messages:
    55
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    I'll have to politely disagree here. :rolleyes: This forum is for asking questions and getting answers. I do understand how a consumer unit works. Having the curiosity to ask is not adequate grounds for not doing something. I don't want to break any regs, though. Hense, the questions.

    Questions I have are generated from other comments here. As you can see from the photo link, running the cable to the CU would be a very easy job right now, especially with the wall in progress, no damage is done to the room.

    Plugwash recommended I go straight to the CU. This seems more and more attractive option, especially if goes onto the existing breaker for the lighting circuit.

    Can I connect the 1mm sq. cable I have wired to the shaver socket straight to the CU? Or do I need to use 2.5 mm? I think I can because the existing connections to the CU's lighting circuit are much smaller than the ring... 1mm?

    If i did this, wouldn't the live feed only have current when the lights were also on? This is not what I want. I want power regardless of if the lights are on or off. Any suggestions or good links?
     
  14. plugwash

    plugwash

    Joined:
    28 Mar 2004
    Messages:
    9,301
    Thanks Received:
    330
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    yes if you are going to a 6A breaker (either a seperate one of the one for your existing lighting cuircuit) then your 1mm is fine
     
  15. Steve

    Steve

    Joined:
    15 Apr 2005
    Messages:
    16,478
    Thanks Received:
    244
    Location:
    Yorkshire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Run your piece of 1.0mm t+e from the shaver socket straight back to the consumer unit, and connect the live to the same 6 Amp MCB as the lighting circuit in that room. Then you should have 2 lives to the same MCB. Connect the neutral to the neutral bar, and the earth to the earth bar. job done. Dont forget to turn off the main switch before you start.
     
  16. Big_Spark

    Big_Spark

    Joined:
    20 Feb 2004
    Messages:
    3,434
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Jgreer, I beg to differ on your competence, but what the hell.

    Regarding the shaverlight/shaver socket, your lighting circuit will have a permanent live/neutral pair, this is what the shaver unit connects too, not the switched live from the switch.

    I do not agree with taking the supply back to the consumer unit as it could potentially introduce damgers that would not exist with only a single circuit in the bathroom.
     
  17. mapj1

    mapj1

    Joined:
    24 Nov 2004
    Messages:
    1,043
    Thanks Received:
    2
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    So., as advised, use the same MCB, as the one that feeds the bath lighting circuit, and you will have 1mm two reds sharing that MCB, two 1mm blacks sharing the neutral and two earths... you get the idea.
    I see no problem with such an approach. leave enough slack that can be pulled in for a remake of the ends in case it is ever needed, future generations will thank you for that.
    - it IS better if it all goes off together from the same MCB - its what people expect.
     
  18. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

    Joined:
    3 Sep 2019
    Country:
    United Kingdom

    If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

    Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


    Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

     
Loading...

Share This Page