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how to fit UPVC fascia

Discussion in 'Roofing and Guttering' started by bondy10, 6 Mar 2008.

  1. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    Yes you want scaffold, or not only is it dangerous, but it will also take much longer running up and down ladders.

    Larger interlocking tiles can just be pushed back no problem, and this will be enough. Plain tiles may need to be removed. You may be able to fix the fascia with the tiles in-situ, but it will be difficult.

    Regarding existing timber fascia, if these are sound then just clad over them . There is no reason why they should be removed. If parts of the existing are soft or rotten, then either cut the rotten sections out, and replace if need be (to support the plastic fascia), or if there are just some soft timber where water as go to it (top or bottom edge), then just break of most of the soft bits, and give the fascia a good soak with preservative.

    Once the timber is clad and covered by the tiles, then it will not rot further.

    But do consider, and allow for replacing rotten felt and fitting plastic eaves tray. Most people and companies don't bother, and then the rain gets behind the plastic fascia and rots the timber, or runs down the new fascia and it looks a mess in no time
     
  2. AMEdinburgh

    AMEdinburgh

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    I did just under 100m fascia soffit and gutter on a roof transplant and extension last year. I purchased all my materials from www.nationalplastics.co.uk and their site has some installation guides which I as a complete novice found useful. I used stainless screws and plastic caps as I always prefer screws to nails (a personal preference based on irrational prejudice before anyone replies!) Working off a peripheral scaffold erected for the roofers was a doddle. Fortunately, my work preceded the tiling so I didn't have to lift any tiles.

    The earlier comments regarding water staining are absolutely right. I had a little bit of edge verge which the tilers bodged with the wrong section meaning the rain dripped onto the fascia and within 2-3 weeks it was black and streaky. Replaced the dry verge section with the one recommended by the tile manufacturer and some vigorous elbow grease with Cif (Jif) brought it back to, as new.

    Very satisfying in the end so good luck.
     
  3. --tom

    --tom

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    Woody, thanks for the reply. As a matter of interest, how would you go about working up and replacing or capping the barge boards? How far into the roof would you go?

    AME, are you talking about the eaves and fascia, not the verge ie. the gable and barge boards?
     
  4. AMEdinburgh

    AMEdinburgh

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    My project was almost all eaves fascias and soffits. There was just one wee bit of verge in the original roof which had to be duplicated on the roof transplant. The tilers used a bit of concrete tile dry verge upside down instead of the profile recommended by Sandtoft.

    Needless to say it was hopeless and caused the black staining seen in the photo. If it had been left it would have rotted away the SIPs and the supporting timbers.

     
  5. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    Barges are difficult from the roof because you are hanging over and trying to nail etc. If you are not using scaffold, then its a case of two ladders up the gable wall.
     
  6. --tom

    --tom

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    Thanks for the replies and the clear self explanatory photos.
     
  7. DIYnot Local

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