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how to fit UPVC fascia

Discussion in 'Roofing and Guttering' started by bondy10, 6 Mar 2008.

  1. bondy10

    bondy10

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    i have a wooden fascia but was thinking of replacing it with upvc. Could someone tell me how this is fitted,ie,does the upvc fit over the old one or do you remove the wooden one and fit upvc to brackets or the like?
     
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  3. The new fascia is nailed to the existing wooden fascia , the nails are supplied with the upvc facia, they are called 'poly pins they have little plastic caps on them. before you nail the new fascia, you must check the old wooden one, any rotten or defective wood must be cut out and replaced with treated timber.
     
  4. bondy10

    bondy10

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    thanks for that.much appreciated
     
  5. bendylow

    bendylow

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    or you could rip all the old stuff off and use full replacment board,depends on how rotten the old ones are.
     
  6. wes54

    wes54

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    i always strip off the old wood and replace it with tanalized treated timber then use the 10mm thick plastic fascia board you should start your polypins 200mm from one end. then every 400 this allows you to put a gutter brkt evey 2 nails apart ie every 800 which is the correct spacing
     
  7. pnc

    pnc

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    You should always, when possible, replace the timber with pvc and not simply cover as any underlying rot will continue and could affect the new pvc fascia.

    The tendency over the last few years has been to us a4 stainless steel poly pins to fix the fascia which is a little like using a sledgehammer to crack a nut. A4 is grossly over engineered and A2 or the new nano pins available from George Nugent Trading in Huddersfield are more than adequate for the purpose.
     
  8. Richard C

    Richard C

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    Don’t use cover boards over the existing timber facia, it’s a short term bodge. The old wood will just carry on rotting away behind & the job won’t last + cover boards are much thinner & can ripple making the finish look really naff. Rip off all the old timber facia & replace with full spec. poly facia boards & fix with stainless poly pins. Here’s a good site to start with &, when I did mine, one of the cheapest I could find + a good, fast delivery service.

    http://www.fascias.com/index.html?target=dept_120.html&lang=en-gb
     
  9. pnc

    pnc

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    None of the online sites sell as cheaply as searching out your local pvc stockists. Although they are set up for trade customers, all will sell to the public and will offer discounts when asked. Never pay the listed price. Your local phone book should have a list of who sells these products.
     
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  11. Richard C

    Richard C

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    I suppose it depends on your location; as you say, they prefer trade custom & I couldn’t match the on-line prices locally at the time even with the max. discount I was offered + you can order from home & it all arrives without the hassle of transport + delivery is cheaper the more you order; even my truck won't load 5m long boards! Things may have changed since I bought 2 years ago so best to check out all the alternatives. ;)
     
  12. pnc

    pnc

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    Fair point. On average you should be able to get 30 to 50% off list prices from stockists. A good example is a decent silicone which you would pay around £4.50 a tube at somewhere like B&Q but you can get for less than half that at a pvc stockists.
     
  13. TJDB

    TJDB

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    It's always gonna be best to remove the rotten wood first, you don't want to drive the rott into the structural roof timbers. Virgin UPVC is supposed to keep it's colour much longer, depends on how long you'll be living there. I have heard that building regs may be changing soon stopping you from doing a capping job... worth bearing in mind as this could show up on surveys when you come to sell on.
     
  14. --tom

    --tom

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    Do you guys work off ladders or towers?

    How do you push up the bottom courses?
    What happens at mortared-in hip tiles and irons?
     
  15. noseall

    noseall

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    good question!

    over to you plastic fantastic chappies............
     
  16. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    As it happens, I was not fitting 3m of fascia last Saturday off two ladders. I was inside reading a novel. :oops:

    But as an aside, I think black woodgrain fascia with black square-flow gutter, and white shiplap effect soffit does look nice, and better than white fascia and gutter

    If I was fitting new fascia I would also fit plastic eaves tray to drip into the gutter and most likely renew the first layer of felt too.

    To do a proper job, the first one or two hips would have to come off. If you was not fitting eaves tray, then the first row of tiles could be knocked up
     
  17. --tom

    --tom

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    Woody, but what access would you typically use? If ladders then its a two man job i guess, but how do you lift the tile on a long run of fascia if you are pushing off ladder rungs?
    Are you also indicating that you have no preference between cappig/cover fascia and standard fascia? Who decides on what basis?
     
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