Ideal Classic startup sequence

[jashton]

hi. Can someone please list the order in which things happen when an Ideal Classic FF380 fires up. For one, I'm just curious and two I'm trying to diagnose likely cause of mine not igniting. I've had the fan replaced and while that appeared to fix the issue at the time I think it was just lucky timing with what has become a more regular fault. I need to get an engineer back out to take a look but I'd like to know a bit more about what might be wrong

When the call for heat is made the circulation pump runs up ok but the fan doesn't start and I hear no ignition clicks. If I give the boiler a hefty thump I hear the fan start and then everything fires up. It's requiring much more regular whacking though, so the problem is getting worse.

Could it be the gas valve solenoid? Seems they are fairly common faults after fan failures. I would assume that if the valve isn't opening to light the pilot (?) then the fan won't try to run and if that doesn't run then the APS won't allow the main burner to light. Is that the general sequence of events?

 

[muggles]

Wrong order - the fan is the first thing to run. The gas valve can't open and the ignition can't operate until the fan is up to speed. If the fan isn't starting you either need a new fan or a new board

EDIT unless the APS is sticking and the boiler can sense that...some boilers have this facility and others don't, can't remember with yours. Time to get an RGI in either way

 

[jashton]

Ok. Thanks. Is everything on the board solid state or there any relays? If it's all solid state I wouldn't expect my whacking the boiler to help. That would unstick a sticking APS though. APS will be cheaper so I guess my engineer should replace that first and if no joy go for logic board after that

 

[45yearsagasman]

Simple testing will ID the fault, so don't allow chucking parts at it as a way of fixing it.

 

[muggles]

Ok. Thanks. Is everything on the board solid state or there any relays? If it's all solid state I wouldn't expect my whacking the boiler to help. That would unstick a sticking APS though. APS will be cheaper so I guess my engineer should replace that first and if no joy go for logic board after that

Tell him to do some proper testing to diagnose rather than throwing random parts at it.

 

[Agile]

Leave any diagnosis to the engineer you call.

People here should not be giving you any repair suggestions as it is against forum rules.

 

[jashton]

OK. Makes sense. So when the boiler stops does the PCB shut the gas valve and stop the fan? I assume he fan continues to run for some time. When it finally does stop what generates the pressure on the white tube to pull the APS back to NC? Pressure remaining inside the collector hood?

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WRONG!
Mod
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[45yearsagasman]

I agree with Tony. Why has this thread been allowed to carry on regarding a safety critical component?


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Nobody reads posts as they are written, someone has to raise an Alert then there's a wait for a Mod to be online.
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[muggles]

....... you should never blow on the tubes (and as a DIYer you shouldn't be touching them at all) - it's very easily damaged by blowing too hard.

 

[Agile]

I like to hear of DIYer's, stupid enough to open up the boiler, who blow into the APS and damage it so they end up having to call an engineer.

Added safety factor!

Tony

 

[ollski]

I agree with Tony. Why has this thread been allowed to carry on regarding a safety critical component?

Maybe even we dont have the power to censor the sequence of operation of a boiler.

 

[45yearsagasman]

I agree Ollski, but this guy is fishing for a diy fix to his boiler and he clearly has no idea what he's doing.

 

[Agile]

Dangerous!

 

[ollski]

Dangerous!

So is swimming with sharks.....your point?

I like to hear of DIYer's, stupid enough to open up the boiler, who blow into the APS and damage it so they end up having to call an engineer.

Added safety factor!

Tony

If you mean this post then what is dangerous?, break the aps and the boiler wont work....no danger there.