Ideal Icos HE18 Boiler will not light up
- Thread starter clanman
- Start date
my local merchants don't stock this carp after the Response fiasco so the only time I ever see this s**te is up at PHEX.Sponsored Links
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Thanks for looking at my problem. First time I have been here its nice to get so many minds looking a problem for you.
Cheers guys I will have to see what the Heating Chap says when he comes round.
The way my Gaff is going I will be back for more advice in the future.
Cheers guys I will have to see what the Heating Chap says when he comes round.
The way my Gaff is going I will be back for more advice in the future.
If you turn off the HW and CH at the programmer, then turn the boiler off at the wall for 30 secs what does it do then?
2, rumble, then 0, or still stay on 'c'? Normally blue light flashing is boiler up to temp but heating demand still active.
Pcb on these will be about £310 fitted. Best get BG out as previously said.
2, rumble, then 0, or still stay on 'c'? Normally blue light flashing is boiler up to temp but heating demand still active.
Pcb on these will be about £310 fitted. Best get BG out as previously said.
Hi Gas4you,
If I turn it all off for 30 sec and then back on. The 2 appears then goes to 0. Then if you turn on either the HW or CH it starts up and appears to catch,as per normal, for a while. Then the rumble from the top of the unit starts and the unit shuts it self down again. The C stay on and after a while the blue light goes out. I can only presume the light flashes for a while after shut down to signify burner cooling - but i am guessing.
Hopefully this leads away from a PCB fault as thats expensive.
If I turn it all off for 30 sec and then back on. The 2 appears then goes to 0. Then if you turn on either the HW or CH it starts up and appears to catch,as per normal, for a while. Then the rumble from the top of the unit starts and the unit shuts it self down again. The C stay on and after a while the blue light goes out. I can only presume the light flashes for a while after shut down to signify burner cooling - but i am guessing.
Hopefully this leads away from a PCB fault as thats expensive.
Well from this latest description, which is different from your previous one, I would not rush into swapping the pcb yet.
The only moving part in the top of the boiler is then fan, but I would expect the boiler to fault with an L or H code if that was faulty.
Are you sure the boiler and system are actually full of water?
I would also be checking all your external controls are ok and haven't been damaged by the electric outage.
To eliminate these turn off the switched fuse to the boiler, remove the bottom boiler panel, 2 screws, then pull ot the wiring connector. Link L1 & L2 together, replace, apart from bottom panel, switch on and test again.
Post what happens.
If it works ok then it will be a control problem.
The only moving part in the top of the boiler is then fan, but I would expect the boiler to fault with an L or H code if that was faulty.
Are you sure the boiler and system are actually full of water?
I would also be checking all your external controls are ok and haven't been damaged by the electric outage.
To eliminate these turn off the switched fuse to the boiler, remove the bottom boiler panel, 2 screws, then pull ot the wiring connector. Link L1 & L2 together, replace, apart from bottom panel, switch on and test again.
Post what happens.
If it works ok then it will be a control problem.
The saga continues....
Apologies Gas4you, the engineer was here when you posted you answer.
Engineer ( with 40 Years experience) has just been out and said the boiler is fine. But, the reason for it shutting down was an over heat saftey. Apparently the BG engineers who fitted the sysytem laid the feed pipe from the expansion tank flat and an airlock has managed to get in the system which has caused my pump to cavitate, with every thing that entails.
So we are getting a BG investigator out to check their installation. Unfortunately the system was installed in Jan 2005 and is now out of warranty. Another 48 hrs without heating!
They will undoubtable come back an say their stuff is fine and it end up costing me anyway..
What do you guys think.
Apologies Gas4you, the engineer was here when you posted you answer.
Engineer ( with 40 Years experience) has just been out and said the boiler is fine. But, the reason for it shutting down was an over heat saftey. Apparently the BG engineers who fitted the sysytem laid the feed pipe from the expansion tank flat and an airlock has managed to get in the system which has caused my pump to cavitate, with every thing that entails.
So we are getting a BG investigator out to check their installation. Unfortunately the system was installed in Jan 2005 and is now out of warranty. Another 48 hrs without heating!
They will undoubtable come back an say their stuff is fine and it end up costing me anyway..
What do you guys think.
We haven't paid him yet as he said the pump needs replacing, and he didn't have one, and the pipe needs to be reangled. So he has let us get the BG engineers out to correct the work if they say it is their fault or we will give the job to him. Cost about £200 to supply fit and reroute the pipe.
Hi If any one is still out there. Sorry for the delay I work away from home and have had to leave the wife and kids in a cold house all week.
So far we have had BG come out and change the pump, and they said the routing of the pipes is OK, but we could raise the F&E tank if we wanted. The system ran fine for about 5 hrs and then the boiler cut out again. We had BG out today again and this engineer says the manifold is blocked, and said they charge about £500 to change it.
Question how do flush the manifold out ( do i have to remove it, if so how)and then what is the most effective way of flushing the rads, I don't want to pay for a power flush as that is too expensive for me right now.
Can any one offer some advice.. Please
So far we have had BG come out and change the pump, and they said the routing of the pipes is OK, but we could raise the F&E tank if we wanted. The system ran fine for about 5 hrs and then the boiler cut out again. We had BG out today again and this engineer says the manifold is blocked, and said they charge about £500 to change it.
Question how do flush the manifold out ( do i have to remove it, if so how)and then what is the most effective way of flushing the rads, I don't want to pay for a power flush as that is too expensive for me right now.
Can any one offer some advice.. Please
Clanman,
Did you solve the boiler problem?
I have exactly the same symptoms on my mother's boiler...
Steve
Did you solve the boiler problem?
I have exactly the same symptoms on my mother's boiler...
Steve
Wire it up to a normal plug to eliminate possible earth problem.
If not skip the boiler. Ideal boilers are only suitable for a skip
if the pcb has gone. They aren't worth the repair.
If not skip the boiler. Ideal boilers are only suitable for a skip
if the pcb has gone. They aren't worth the repair.
If the boiler lights for a short while then cuts out with the C and the blue light flashing in the display then the boiler is on demand but up to temp. if there is no re-ignition then there is a circulation issue as the heat isnt escaping the boiler.
Check pump working, water in header tank, bleed air.
Check pump working, water in header tank, bleed air.
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