Ideal response 120 boilers - ignition problems

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My Ideal response 120 boiler has broken down yet again.
This time all that happens when the boiler is turned on is the mains light illuminates and the timer light comes on to idicate the mode.
The fan does not come on and the boiler makes no attempt to ignite. The diagnostic Lights 'power to ignition PCB LED4' and 'Ignition Lock Out LED2' do not light up either. Is it possible that it is a fuse problem or is there a switch somewhere that needs resetting?.
 
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This maybe something as simple as the spark gap. But i have also know ignition problems to be the first signs of leaking heat exchanger.

But whatever it is it probably needs to be checked out by a CORGI. Unless you know a local engineer it may be a good idea to get IDEAL out to it on a fixed price.

I sometimes think that IDEAL named these as the Response as they intended to sell them cheap and then make a fortune out of Spares in RESPONSE to breakdowns.

I do know an excellent ex IDEAL engineer who knows them inside out but he lives in NW London?
 
a kwik way to check is to measure the DC at resister R1, its on the ignition board (No 37) if you get >2VDC then the probe is doing its funky thing and you need a new board

If not hopefully agile or raden will pick up on this post and give you a more cerebral fault find ;)
 
Cheers for reply MR. Smyth,
Don't think its the spark gap though 'cause it is not making any attempt to spark and I had the spark generator changed 7 months ago so. Have opened the Boiler up and it seems dry through out.
Am living near Wimbledon SW London but if your mates got a number i could call him maybe.
Might also be able to get the guy I usually get to fix it tomorrow
 
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Thanks for reply Corgiman,
Don't have a current measuring device unfortunately. If the board is gone, is that a big job?
 
if you aint got a multi meter get someone in who is competant to work on a boiler
 
Sorry Kieran, spoken to him. Mill Hill to SW19, to far, would you believe
 
I was at one of these last week. to get it to run the lady of the house would thump it on the front. Turned out the built in Ideal programmer was iffy. Trade price......£ 170.00 + vat. WTF. Got an external one from local shed and fitted that.
 
Cheers Solo,
Tried that but no go, anyway the hot water doesn't trigger the boiler either.
Corgiman, if the plumber would have come out this afternoon I wouldn't be trying to solve this problem this evening. I'm merely trying to see if the problem is easy to fix so i don't have to freeze my ass off . Anyway some of the 'competent' corgi registered companies I've dealt with over the years turned out to be not very competant.
 
I reckon you have a blocked water pressure switch or stat tripped (bottom of boiler red button) or fuse f4a has blown on pcb 40.

Wtr press switch- Check for continuity between pink and brown wire to overheat stat. If no continuity remove switch and clean hole.

If fuse f4a has blown (Right hand fuse) replace the fan speed board and fan assy.


Hope that helps.
 
I also expect the water pressure switch.

If this is not operated the orange light behind the panel comes on and you can see it if the room is dark.

Of course we assume that you have reset the overheat stat on the right bottom?

These are not the most popular boiler for engineers but Chris seems to like going to then as he is a bit of a glutton for punishment!

Tony
 
Appreciate the advice guys
Assume that the overheat switch is the red button on the underneath side of the boiler on the right hand side. Should it be pushed in or pulled out to reset?
The water pressure light is lit, took off the panel so i can see it clearly.
if it is that the water pressure switch needs cleaning, is attached to the back of the pressure guage or located elsewhere - haven't got the manual and can't find a schemetic anywhere on the internet.

Have located f1 and f2 on the lower circuit board but cannot find f4a, is that on one of the circuit boards?

Thanks agin for the help
 
As I have already clearly explained to you if the LP light is lit then the LP switch is not activated to the run condition.

That usually happens when the owner does not bother to keep it topped up and lets it go down below 0.8 Bar.

It will probably reset itself if its topped up to 1.8 Bar and left for a few hours. Otherwise the LP switch will need to be replaced.

Tony
 

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