Ok Chris, thanks mate I will check. I think for ease and cost sake it is going to be better to get me to fit an external EV. If I start having to take the boiler off the wall and then strip it to replace the part, and then recommission it it is going to cost them more and to be totally honest the pipework that I have seen on this job leaves a lot to be desired so I could be opening up that famous "can of worms" with airlocks a plenty Unless of course I use my new electric pipe freezer (Any excuse to use that bit of kit at the moment) It will get a bit hot in that cupboard though with that thing blowing away.
ideal Response 120
- Thread starter stulew
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Jst drop the pressure off the system, and cut in a compression tee on one of the primarys and take a new vessel from there, no need for the freezer, and job done in an hour
Also worth considering the shraeder valve in the expansion vessel. If you pump it up and the air has disappeared after a couple of days but no sign of water in the valve then most likely the air has just leaked out through the valve. Just buy a shraeder core replacement tool which usually comes with a couple of valve cores with it.
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Why don't you just change the head of the PRV
Lost count how many Ive done, works everytime
There is a knack to it, but is much easier than changing the complete lot
Standard caleffi safety valve
Just squeeze the head, close to where it screws into the brass body, squeeze tight onto the small black plastic rim, and turn anti clockwise. This removes the head, sometimes, you have to poke your little finger in to remove the black rubber washer, and change it for a Worcester caleffi head (different body, exactly the same head once unscrewed.)
As for the expansion vessel, piece of cake to change, just make sure that the diaphragm is definitely persihed, and the vessel doesn't just need repressurising, or I've had it the once, on a Response, where the flexible connector is blocked/kinked. This can easily be verified by opening the PRV by turning the head to depressurise completely, and by pumping up the expansion vessel, if water is displaced (i.e. you hear water coming out when you are pumping up the vessel), then the flexible braided tube is ok.
The bottom connection on the expansion vessel can be awkward to get to, but is much easier to remove with a basin wrench, and remember to change the 15mm fibre washer. The expansion vessel comes out by removing the small plate (on the top of the boiler case) above the expansion vessel and cracking the union on the 15mm union on the bottom. Sometimes, there is also a screw on a swivel plate that holds it in. Should take no more than 20-25 minutes to do the expansion vessel and PRV. When taking the bottom plate off to get to the PRV, don't remove the middle screws, as these hold a right angled plate with the electrical connections on and can be difficult to get on afterwards.
Any problems post again
Lost count how many Ive done, works everytime
There is a knack to it, but is much easier than changing the complete lot
Standard caleffi safety valve
Just squeeze the head, close to where it screws into the brass body, squeeze tight onto the small black plastic rim, and turn anti clockwise. This removes the head, sometimes, you have to poke your little finger in to remove the black rubber washer, and change it for a Worcester caleffi head (different body, exactly the same head once unscrewed.)
As for the expansion vessel, piece of cake to change, just make sure that the diaphragm is definitely persihed, and the vessel doesn't just need repressurising, or I've had it the once, on a Response, where the flexible connector is blocked/kinked. This can easily be verified by opening the PRV by turning the head to depressurise completely, and by pumping up the expansion vessel, if water is displaced (i.e. you hear water coming out when you are pumping up the vessel), then the flexible braided tube is ok.
The bottom connection on the expansion vessel can be awkward to get to, but is much easier to remove with a basin wrench, and remember to change the 15mm fibre washer. The expansion vessel comes out by removing the small plate (on the top of the boiler case) above the expansion vessel and cracking the union on the 15mm union on the bottom. Sometimes, there is also a screw on a swivel plate that holds it in. Should take no more than 20-25 minutes to do the expansion vessel and PRV. When taking the bottom plate off to get to the PRV, don't remove the middle screws, as these hold a right angled plate with the electrical connections on and can be difficult to get on afterwards.
Any problems post again
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Excellent replies Gents.. I have spoken to the customer and he is willing to go for the external vessel option, but I will try your test on the integral one first.And BradleyBear I will also try your PRV removal trick.
Many Thanks all.... I will report back.
Many Thanks all.... I will report back.
Bradleybear
Good advice there about PRV heads
I've just learnt something useful ..... Thanks
Good advice there about PRV heads
I've just learnt something useful ..... Thanks
I read with interest about the "Flames coming out if the flue pipe"! I think it is the same problem with my boiler. The sound of the boiler starting up is something between a boom and a gun going off.
The BG man has had the gauze and electrode unit apart and there seems to be some deposits on one of the ceramic tubes that house the electrodes. He cleaned this, but it is still discoloured (brown) and he thinks the sparking is occurring at this point, and not at the top of the electrode. He believes the gas is building in the chamber until it reaches the bottom of the chamber, where the sparking is occurring. The boilder is now back together and the start up sound is quite quiet. He has ordered a new set of electodes, burner assembly, spark generator and leads - plan is to run the boilder today (good, its damn cold) and then change everything out tomorrow. Have we missed anything? Have we got to the root cause?
It is now the following day and the boiler is back to making those booming explosive noises when firing. I just hope these changes fix it.
The BG man has had the gauze and electrode unit apart and there seems to be some deposits on one of the ceramic tubes that house the electrodes. He cleaned this, but it is still discoloured (brown) and he thinks the sparking is occurring at this point, and not at the top of the electrode. He believes the gas is building in the chamber until it reaches the bottom of the chamber, where the sparking is occurring. The boilder is now back together and the start up sound is quite quiet. He has ordered a new set of electodes, burner assembly, spark generator and leads - plan is to run the boilder today (good, its damn cold) and then change everything out tomorrow. Have we missed anything? Have we got to the root cause?
It is now the following day and the boiler is back to making those booming explosive noises when firing. I just hope these changes fix it.
Grimshaw
Its usually the spark generator braeking down, giving a weak spark and late ignition and a bang, is it okay now?
Its usually the spark generator braeking down, giving a weak spark and late ignition and a bang, is it okay now?
I have found these with the spark generator being intermittent and also with the spark being weak giving intermittent and sometimes explosive ignition.
I am dealing with one of these at the moment with a blowing 3.125A fuse on the PCB 40.
The fuse does not blow if the fan is disconnected.
The fan resistances seem normal.
Any suggestions on how I can decide if its the fan speed PCB is faulty or the fan itself?
Tony
I am dealing with one of these at the moment with a blowing 3.125A fuse on the PCB 40.
The fuse does not blow if the fan is disconnected.
The fan resistances seem normal.
Any suggestions on how I can decide if its the fan speed PCB is faulty or the fan itself?
Tony
disconect the fan from the fan speed board and see if the fuse goes,are you north or south london
I have a response 120 it works ok when switched to water only i.e. ch off.
I can hear the burner modulating as the temperature increases.
When it is switched to ch for central heating it ‘s not modulating. It gets so hot that the cut out under the boiler trips.
Any ideas as to the course of the problem.
I can hear the burner modulating as the temperature increases.
When it is switched to ch for central heating it ‘s not modulating. It gets so hot that the cut out under the boiler trips.
Any ideas as to the course of the problem.
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