If starting from scratch what lighting would you get?

I would install 3A or 5A sockets in living room and master bedroom on a dimmer switch and then use plug in lights. This enables you to alter the mood and the lights really easily. You could combine with a central pendant for more light. Don't forget over bed reading lights too.

Definitely put your bathroom lights on a dimmer - sometimes you want low light for a bath (IYKWIM)

Wall lights can also be very effective.

I would only ever use down lights in a kitchen (but combined with under cabinet lights so you can light the work area properly) and bathrooms.

HTH
 
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Bas: what sort of area do they cover?

IE how many lamps per m^2 or whatever have you ended up with?
I've got 3 (2x26W) in a 6.5m² kitchen. I don't have the advantage of a 9' ceiling, and I guess I like my kitchen to be much brighter lit than Steve does.

And it is pretty bright - I might try lower wattage lamps some time.
 
Unfortunately our lass (who now lives with me) doesnt like them, so I'm now looking towards a false ceiling with LED downlighters and some form of background strip lighting to illuminate the ceiling.
Tell her to lump it or move out.
 
sometimes you want low light for a bath (IYKWIM)
pics.gif
 
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ban, you'd be disappointed, I'm strictly a bright lights and shower girl, but Mr Sparkybird on the other hand, does like a candle lit bath.... STILL wanna see the pics..... :LOL:
 
If a previous thread,
Yes they do use a lot more electricity than some other types of lighting,
Precisely - and that is why they are so offensive.

It is the inefficiency of that type of lighting which is unacceptable!

Then, in his own inimitable way, describing somebody who proposes LED downlighters,

Then in this thread B-A-S admits that his lighting actually requires 24W/m², whereas the person who installed LED downlighters notes:
They are indeed very bright and illuminate the room extremely well. Anything brighter would have been too bright.
For an installation requiring 2.3W/m² - 10x more efficient that B-A-S's "efficient" lighting.
 
Well - beauty is in the eye of etc, but as you said "of course" to "you dont want fancy aesthetic lighting that casts shadows everywhere, you want good functional illumination of your work area" I admit I am at a loss to understand what you mean by "industrial downlights" as a criticism.
Whatever solution you have in the kitchen, it must be capable of 'good functional illumination' and no doubt your down-lighters are. But ideally I would also like my lighting to be efficient, discreet, dimmable with a pleasing colour temperature. Personally I am still veering towards LEDs as a better solution overall.

Definitely put your bathroom lights on a dimmer - sometimes you want low light for a bath
Wow - probably the last place I would have considered putting a dimmer! The rest of what you say sounds like sensible advice also.
 
For an installation requiring 2.3W/m² - 10x more efficient that B-A-S's "efficient" lighting.
rasweld [sic]- you really should avoid battles of wits when you are unarmed.
At the slightest mention of downlighters were are treated to your cut&paste of various light fittings intended for non-domestic installations.

I know you sometimes present opinion-as-fact, but I still struggle to see why you maintain these are 'ideal'. The appearance is clearly a personal opinion - this thread has mentioned one person who thinks such lamps should be boarded over. Your biggest bug-bear seems to be efficiency, but using over 150W to light a small room is hardly something to shout about.
 
At the slightest mention of downlighters were are treated to your cut&paste of various light fittings intended for non-domestic installations.
Never mind how the makers/sellers decide to position them, can you provide a rational explanation of why a flush ceiling light 180mm across is not suitable for domestic use?

When you've done that perhaps you could complete your triumph by showing why I should not own Makita or blue Bosch power tools, conduit stock, dies and a bender, pyro tools, installation testers.....


I know you sometimes present opinion-as-fact, but I still struggle to see why you maintain these are 'ideal'.
If so then that is clearly because you struggle with reading.

Maybe a large print version would be easier for you.

In places like kitchens, bathrooms, WCs, possibly hallways and landings where you just want unobtrusive efficient lighting ...



Your biggest bug-bear seems to be efficiency, but using over 150W to light a small room is hardly something to shout about.
You still don't get it, do you.

Absolute wattage is not the point. MR16 LED lamps consume very little, but they are still inefficient at lighting up rooms, not because of how many watts they consume, but because of their format. A better designed 5W LED light would do a much better job than a 5W MR16 LED.
 
Never mind how the makers/sellers decide to position them, can you provide a rational explanation of why a flush ceiling light 180mm across is not suitable for domestic use?
I never claimed otherwise. I can't see any reason why you can't use them for domestic use. The manufacturer's positioning is probably a pretty strong hint about the application they are specifically intended for though.

When you've done that perhaps you could complete your triumph by showing why I should not own Makita or blue Bosch power tools, conduit stock, dies and a bender, pyro tools, installation testers.....
The difference is obvious. I bought my Bosch drill because I wanted a 'professional quality' drill. If I wanted my kitchen to look like my office I'd fit appropriate lights.

If so then that is clearly because you struggle with reading.
In places like kitchens, bathrooms, WCs, possibly hallways and landings where you just want unobtrusive efficient lighting ...
Unobtrusive: probably, though that doesn't necessarily make them attractive. Whatever.
Efficient: well, not on the evidence you've provided so far...

Your biggest bug-bear seems to be efficiency, but using over 150W to light a small room is hardly something to shout about.
You still don't get it, do you.

Absolute wattage is not the point.

Of course it's not. But as you hadn't provided any lux measurements, I noted your comment that "it is pretty bright", and the comment which I quoted above about the LEDs that "they are indeed very bright and illuminate the room extremely well. Anything brighter would have been too bright." Clearly that's entirely subjective and not particularly scientific, but it seems reasonable to conclude both rooms are illuminated adequetely. Which leads to the conclusion that your lighting is x10 less efficient than the LEDs. Of course I could be an order of magnitude out in any assumptions, and the LEDs would still be more efficient. I just expected that when you say unobtrusive efficient lighting it would be, you know, efficient...

MR16 LED lamps consume very little, but they are still inefficient at lighting up rooms, not because of how many watts they consume, but because of their format. A better designed 5W LED light would do a much better job than a 5W MR16 LED.

Have you ever looked at LED lamps? The 'MR' part has very little relevance. The beam angle is dominated by the internal reflector within the LED. The ones that use higher-current chips usually have additional per-chip reflectors, but this is entirely independent of the MR16 format. Some even claim beam angles of 120 degrees, although I have no experience of these. You may want to google some images of LED MR16 bulbs.
 
Oooh Ban you took my recommendation on those lights?

They are awesome. My kitchen's lit by 52 watts! I have two (2x13w) in a 17sqm kitchen.

Needed new lamps after 18 months of standard useage - this is one downside of these, they dont like being switched on and off a lot and lamp life will be reduced.

But the light they produce is fantastic. I have 9ft ceilings so these are brilliant - in my kitchen the shadow line is about a foot down on the wall, so the spread of light is very good, compared to halogen downlighters.

Unfortunately our lass (who now lives with me) doesnt like them, so I'm now looking towards a false ceiling with LED downlighters and some form of background strip lighting to illuminate the ceiling.
Sounds like its not a compleate solution. I might fit some myself, but there not given away in terms of fitting them and then deciding you dont like them!

Most of my house is fitted with CFLs in rose fittings and, to be honest, it works. Paper globe lamp shade cover. Sorted
Its not exactly designer lighting but it doesnt look 'office' , it produces nice light, and ive never felt a 'designer urge' Which just leaves the bathroom and kitchen, currently 50w gu10 halogen downlighters.


Daniel
 
I never claimed otherwise. I can't see any reason why you can't use them for domestic use.
My apologies - I mistakenly thought that this:
At the slightest mention of downlighters were are treated to your cut&paste of various light fittings intended for non-domestic installations.
was a criticism of me suggesting that lights "intended for non-domestic installations" could be used in a domestic environment, not an agreement.


The manufacturer's positioning is probably a pretty strong hint about the application they are specifically intended for though.
My apologies - I mistakenly thought that it was OK to use them in a domestic environment even if the maker intends them for use elsewhere, in the same way that it's OK to use tools for DIY even if the maker intends them for professional use.


The difference is obvious. I bought my Bosch drill because I wanted a 'professional quality' drill.
My apologies - I mistakenly thought that there was little difference, and that it was OK to use a product in a different environment to the one into which the maker marketed it if I wanted the performance it offered.

I will try to remember that it's OK to do that with tools, but not with lights.

It would be a great help to me if you could list what sorts of items intended for professional or non-domestic use are OK to use in a non-professional or domestic setting, and which are not, since you clearly have a lot of knowledge in this area, and I clearly don't get it at all.


If I wanted my kitchen to look like my office I'd fit appropriate lights.
My apologies - I mistakenly thought that as a kitchen is a place of work it might be OK to provide it with lighting which was appropriate to that.

Again, I would appreciate an explanation from you of what kitchen items, e.g. pans, knives, ingredients etc I should use, even if the makers intend them for non-domestic use, and which I should not, because obviously I have been going terribly wrong by considering what things do rather than taking notice of the market the maker thinks he should focus on.

Unobtrusive: probably, though that doesn't necessarily make them attractive. Whatever.
My apologies - I mistakenly thought that as some people like this:

Full-Stainless-Steel-Kitchen-Strato-Italian-manufacturer.jpg


and some like this:

Rustic-Kitchen-2.jpg


and some like a mixture of the two:

french-country-kitchen-backsplash-ideas-photos-1.jpg


that it would be OK to suggest the use of unobtrusive lights even if you don't consider them attractive.


Your biggest bug-bear seems to be efficiency, but using over 150W to light a small room is hardly something to shout about.
Would it be OK if I removed the lights and put in a twin 6' fluorescent strip which uses only 140W?


the comment which I quoted above about the LEDs that "they are indeed very bright and illuminate the room extremely well. Anything brighter would have been too bright."
That will be the room with 0.78 lights per m², will it, compared to mine with 0.46 and Steve's with 0.12?


Which leads to the conclusion that your lighting is x10 less efficient than the LEDs.
My apologies - I mistakenly thought that when you agreed that "of course" absolute wattage is not the point you were being truthful.


Of course I could be an order of magnitude out in any assumptions, and the LEDs would still be more efficient. I just expected that when you say unobtrusive efficient lighting it would be, you know, efficient...

we ended up using 13 lights. Each was a 3W B&Q LED "Hi Power" GU10 light.

The room is 5.2m long x 3.2m wide by 3.2m high.
They are awesome. My kitchen's lit by 52 watts! I have two (2x13w) in a 17sqm kitchen.
So 1 light for every 1.28m² and 2.35W/m² good, 1 light for every 8.5m² and 3.05W/m² bad.

Thank you for clarifying.


Have you ever looked at LED lamps? The 'MR' part has very little relevance. The beam angle is dominated by the internal reflector within the LED. The ones that use higher-current chips usually have additional per-chip reflectors, but this is entirely independent of the MR16 format. Some even claim beam angles of 120 degrees, although I have no experience of these. You may want to google some images of LED MR16 bulbs.
Could you light a 17m² room with 2 of them?
 

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