Intsalling heavy tiles in victorian bathroom

[liam546]

Thanks very much. Sorry was having a moment on my measurements for the battons.

I know it's not a lot and may not make a dramatic difference but I think I'm going to go with the 25mm insulation as that way I still retain more floor space and I get at least some insulation in there. I am also going with electric loose wire under floor heating.

I'll get some of these concrete screws too as I need to test them on my bricks which are full of holes and are susceptible to cracking very easily when you drill anything into them.

 

[3DGuy]

Thanks very much. Sorry was having a moment on my measurements for the battons.

I know it's not a lot and may not make a dramatic difference but I think I'm going to go with the 25mm insulation as that way I still retain more floor space and I get at least some insulation in there. I am also going with electric loose wire under floor heating.

I'll get some of these concrete screws too as I need to test them on my bricks which are full of holes and are susceptible to cracking very easily when you drill anything into them.

If the bricks are easy to crack I would have thought concrete screws would just spin in those bricks and act like a drill making a loose fixing. I could be wrong there though. Have you got a pic of the room now it's stripped back? Close up on the bricks?

Personally I would probably get drill the holes carefully and Plug them with decent plugs then screw through. I'd line the battons up, drill through the wood and just through to leave a marker then remove the batton, then plug the holes and screw through.

 

[liam546]

My bricks are a real nightmare, they have lots of holes which I think were used along with the lime mortar to help the brick breathe and dry quicker.

I've tried drilling carefully into these bricks before and putting in wall plugs but as soon as I hit a hole (impossible to not) they just crack the brick in half. So frustrating.

Pics below are of bathroom wall now stripped and the chimney stack which shows the holes. These bricks make up my entire house

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• liam546
• 26 Mar 2014
• 3

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• liam546
• 26 Mar 2014
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[3DGuy]

My bricks are a real nightmare, they have lots of holes which I think were used along with the lime mortar to help the brick breathe and dry quicker.

I've tried drilling carefully into these bricks before and putting in wall plugs but as soon as I hit a hole (impossible to not) they just crack the brick in half. So frustrating.

Pics below are of bathroom wall now stripped and the chimney stack which shows the holes. These bricks make up my entire house

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• liam546
• 26 Mar 2014
• 3

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• liam546
• 26 Mar 2014
• 1

Damn. They look aright royal pain in the butt.

How soft is the mortar? Have you thought about running fixings along the mortar line? Or is that also rather crumbly? Just thinking if you could use 5-6mm plugs along the mortar lines. May still be worth a try with the concrete screws but if the bricks are that crumbly I don't hold much hope on them.

Assume you are drilling with Hammer off? if they are that easy to crack?

 

[liam546]

Yes I am drilling with hammer off and the lime mortar joints are really soft. There is no way id feel comfortable securing to them.

I don't want to dot and dab either though, this renovation project can be such a head ache at times

 

[3DGuy]

Yes I am drilling with hammer off and the lime mortar joints are really soft. There is no way id feel comfortable securing to them.

I don't want to dot and dab either though, this renovation project can be such a head ache at times

Maybe an idea.... Got any other photos from around the room, further back etc? If you can add a few more photos I might have an idea

 

[liam546]

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• liam546
• 26 Mar 2014
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• liam546
• 26 Mar 2014
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• liam546
• 26 Mar 2014
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• liam546
• 26 Mar 2014
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[3DGuy]

Cant quite see what I was after on those pics Any chance of any floor level ones? Around the base of the walls etc?

 

[liam546]

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• liam546
• 26 Mar 2014
• 1

 

[liam546]

What is it your looking for?

 

[3DGuy]

I was wondering if there were any fixing means on the floor. Some new stud walls in new builds use a metal frame with plasterboard attached to each side. I was wondering as there is wood at the top if there was a means to fix to the floor for a framework that's slim but strong which would then support plasterboard without mechanical fixing to the brick.

Something like these.

http://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/...&network=pla&gclid=CJnn3pqPsb0CFU_KtAodRTMA0A


http://www.london-build.co.uk/wp-content/gallery/metal-stud-partition-walls/drywall-stud.jpg

If you could affix the bottom to the floor and the top tot he wall or the ceiling.... It might give options While being narrow and slim.

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[liam546]

Interesting, thanks for the idea. Yes at the top I could affix metal frame to the wooden beam that runs through at the top or perhaps the ceiling joists.

At the bottom there is no wooden beam, just solid brick but I may be able to fix to the wooden floors joists. I'll be taking up the floor boards anyway as I need to run pipes and was going to put down. 18mm chipboard. I could even fix to the chipboard which will in turn be screwed down to the floor joists.

I'll look into the systems you mentioned, my first thought though is if there is only fixings at top and bottom wouldn't the middle flex a bit?

 

[3DGuy]

Interesting, thanks for the idea. Yes at the top I could affix metal frame to the wooden beam that runs through at the top or perhaps the ceiling joists.

At the bottom there is no wooden beam, just solid brick but I may be able to fix to the wooden floors joists. I'll be taking up the floor boards anyway as I need to run pipes and was going to put down. 18mm chipboard. I could even fix to the chipboard which will in turn be screwed down to the floor joists.

I'll look into the systems you mentioned, my first thought though is if there is only fixings at top and bottom wouldn't the middle flex a bit?

Yea it just came to me really. You could screw these directly in to the floor anyways. Don't use 18mm... If you are floor tiling use 18mm or 25mm WSB Ply. if chipboard use 22mm. I don't think 18mm is standard structural grade. Also make sure its P5 grade. I used 18mm loft ones before the small ones and they are ****e. In the renovation I'm working on currently I used 22mm 2.4m ones up the roof. FAR better and more stable. the 18mm ones will flex too much.

I think you run a channel top and bottom. then you run vertical ones at like 400mm intervals. It's not just top and bottom, you still create the verticals and I believe screw the board in to all the uprights.

 

[3DGuy]

my first thought though is if there is only fixings at top and bottom wouldn't the middle flex a bit?

I wouldn't have thought so if done right, Strip and top bottom and sides then filled in with 400mm intervals for more vertical pieces of the steel.
This is how a lot of new build houses are made, Narrower walls, then plasterboard/drywalled on both sides of the frame.

See there. The track runs top, bottom and sides then you have C studs at regular intervals to screw in to.

 

[liam546]

Ok I will look at these systems and cost. It might be my only real option...

In regards to bathroom flooring I meant to say 18mm wsb ply. I didn't mean chipboard, got chipboard on my mind as I've just used 22 mm chipboard to board my loft.

Thanks again for all your help.