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Joining galvanised conduit

HSS used to hire out the stuff to do it
It can be hired from most hire places, but the hassle and cost is not really justified if one just has one or two joints to do.
Let's be honest here, conduit work isn't something the average DIYer can just do. It takes a certain amount of practice and wasted tube, especially if bends are involved. I don't claim to be an expert by any means but the bits I have done will stand up to some scrutinity, I'm sure not perfect by some peoples standards but I think OK and certainly better than some. The first jobs done with split tube, one of which I still see on a occasional basis and hate the slope caused by clearing an obstruction. I'm very aware of the difference of my results between the first and the last of threaded and bent tube. Not forgetting the jobs I did in 1970's & 80's with a type similar to Conlock, 3/8" steel, the biggest pain with it being the locking screw was on one side and frequently poor accessibilty when against a corner or ceiling, or 1/4" (later 8mm) aluminium which was also available with clamp type fittings (same style as split tube) but much bulkier.

However I have to say that throughout my working life I have been around tube work (even if not directly involved) so I had an insight into it's installation which the average DIYer will not have the same advantage.
 
As per Sunray ….it has its place , I’ve used part conlock and normal threaded conduit ( all internally ) door entry systems / access control jobs ( small runs ) as it’s more cost effective …
 
At college in the eighties, I had to do various bits of galv conduit with MICC cable attached to it and accessories, just as an exercise. I don't think I've ever needed to do anything quite like that again but it was great practice.

A foot of conduit with a coupler on each end. One end attached to a metalclad socket, the whole to the wall with galv spacer saddles.

Then a length of MICC glanded up and attached to the top end of the conduit, with the tails stripped back long enough to reach down the foot of conduit to the socket terminals.

The other end of the MICC glanded off and attached to a metal clad dist board.

There were other parts to it, but more of the same, combining conduit work and MICC work. I remember using copper P clips and brass slotted screws.

Extra marks for not chewing them up and having all the slots pointing in the same direction. And of course, the cable looking arrow straight!
 
Let's be honest here, conduit work isn't something the average DIYer can just do. It takes a certain amount of practice and wasted tube, especially if bends are involved. I don't claim to be an expert by any means but the bits I have done will stand up to some scrutinity, I'm sure not perfect by some peoples standards but I think OK and certainly better than some. The first jobs done with split tube, one of which I still see on a occasional basis and hate the slope caused by clearing an obstruction. I'm very aware of the difference of my results between the first and the last of threaded and bent tube. Not forgetting the jobs I did in 1970's & 80's with a type similar to Conlock, 3/8" steel, the biggest pain with it being the locking screw was on one side and frequently poor accessibilty when against a corner or ceiling, or 1/4" (later 8mm) aluminium which was also available with clamp type fittings (same style as split tube) but much bulkier.

However I have to say that throughout my working life I have been around tube work (even if not directly involved) so I had an insight into it's installation which the average DIYer will not have the same advantage.
im sure when push fit first came out there was no grubscrew, just a tab inside riveted on that put pressure on the conduit
 
At college in the eighties, I had to do various bits of galv conduit with MICC cable attached to it and accessories, just as an exercise. I don't think I've ever needed to do anything quite like that again but it was great practice.

That was my bread and butter. I would often get through a bundle of conduit, per day, depending on the complexity. How many lengths were in a bundle?

Largest I used, was I think 2 inch? Now, that took some bending and threading.
 
im sure when push fit first came out there was no grubscrew, just a tab inside riveted on that put pressure on the conduit
Oh crikey yes, I'd completely forgotten that stuff.
Cue JW for his famous description... which I'll happily concur.
 
Craplock more like.
Joints which are 'fixed' together by a single grub screw, not waterproof, when used outside the conduit will fill with water, the screw points will gouge into the galvanised coating to ensure corrosion.
It's overpriced junk which was created to deskill the industry so that ham-fisted imported labourer types who will work for less than minimum wage can be let loose on 'installing' electrical conduit.
You're not a fan then? ;)
 
Let's be honest here, conduit work isn't something the average DIYer can just do.
The same is true of a lot of DIY tasks, it takes time to figure out what works for you and what doesn't, and develop your technique.

The Yanks use a lot of "EMT" with connectors that seem very similar to conlock.
 
The same is true of a lot of DIY tasks, it takes time to figure out what works for you and what doesn't, and develop your technique.
Indeed - but in the present context, it goes somewhat beyond that when specific kit is required and it's use would be only extremely 'occasional'.
 

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