Joining Straight Different Width Worktops

[lerence]

I have a kitchen just over 4m along one side of the room, after just over 2m I have a brick pier that will need cutting around. At this point the the kitchen units set back.

The worktop before the pier is a standard 600mm, the other will be a breakfast bar cut down to 675mm. The units have been brought forward to allow for a waste pipe run behind an integrated dishwasher.

Any ideas how to join the two worktops? I've attached a picture with two pieces of OSB, that is the way the worktops will be oriented.

 

[Doggit]

Assuming it's an L shape, then you'd do a 45 degree cut to the corner.

 

[lerence]

Thanks doggit, that was my initial thinking. That section of the worktop will be an L shape, I drew a diagonal line with how I think it would be that can be seen in the picture.

Shall I use a bolt under the counter to pull them together? The section that overlaps is 100x140mm, so only small.

 

[Doggit]

Is there a unit underneath it, or just a void. If it's just a void, and you're good with a router, then you can finish each piece at the end of the unit, and then fit a fillet that'll cut across at 45 degrees.

Yes, at least 2 bolts under the counter to pull them together.

 

[lerence]

There is a unit below one and an integrated dishwasher below the other. The L shape is preferable to an infill I think.

I've never really used a router either, not for anything as important as a kitchen worktop anyway.

 

[Doggit]

You need to do this job with a router if you want a good finish.

 

[lerence]

I have access to a festool beast, I've lined it up for the weekend.

So to clarify I'll be doing two diagonal cuts where they overlap and then the bolts below, I think I could struggle with fitting two of them in. All with a router, after I've scribed them into my wonky walls.

Cheers.

 

[Doggit]

You should be able to get two bolts in; a lot of people would recommend 3 with a diagonal cut. I'd suggest fitting the section in the RH side of the picture first, then the LH side, then the diagonal cut on the RH side, and so on.

 

[lerence]

Thanks again, that's how I'd planned to fit it too. The RH side is a new wall so would be relatively straight, maybe not true but not wavey anyway.

Will the profile edge need any kind of special attention?

 

[Doggit]

Sorry, how do you mean, the profile edge?

 

[lerence]

I meant post form edge.

I'm probably over thinking all of this but coming from electrical work, carpentry is alien to me.

 

[Doggit]

Trust me, better to over think it slightly, and make sure you don't ruin the worktop. Very much a case of measure three times, and cut only once. If you're cutting both worktops at 45 degrees, then you're going to have a sharp corner edge, but that's all. You've just got to be careful how you cut it. If the corner isn't an exact 90 degrees for instance - say 88 - then you'd need to cut both at 44 degrees (or make sure when you lay one on top of the other, that you can find the exact corner. If you were to cut one at 45 degrees, but the corner wasn't exact, then the second cut wouldn't line up properly.

Just to be certain, is there is a cupboard below this joint though.

 

[lerence]

Yeah the is a cupboard below the join across most of it.

The worktops will be supported at the join by a cabinet.

The walls are definitely out as well, placing the OSB on them has highlighted that. So I'll have to get the two lengths fitted, scribed into the wavey walls and then go from there.

As for the angle of the join, how will I determine that?

Your help has been invaluable doggit.

 

[Doggit]

Getting a protractor or something to give you the 45 degree angle is only for an aproximation. You need to set up both worktops, and get them in place with one on top of the other - put some blocks under one of them to make sure it's level. The trick is to work out the inner and outer corners of the eventul join, cut the top piece, and then mark and cut the bottom piece. You'll need masking tape because laminate won't take pencil very well, and you'll need to be damned careful with the offset. It may be worthwhile bringing one worktop out a few inches so that if you make a mistake on the cut, you have a bit of leeway, and can then remove a straight edge for the other end if it's worked.

 

[lerence]

Thank you again, I feel like I'm saying that too much. It's turned up as a square edge, wife ordered it.

That makes me much more confident about doing the work. Have the router, bit and masking tape, pencils and everything else I think I'll need. I'll report back tomorrow regardless of my success or failure.