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lead flashing for timber lantern ridge?

Discussion in 'Roofing and Guttering' started by seneca, 20 May 2017.

  1. seneca

    seneca

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    Hello,
    I have installed a used timber lantern and need to put some lead on the ridge. It originally had a 0.7m length of very thin flashing moulded around the ridge where the timber apex and glass panels meet. I now need to replace the lead and am looking for a short length of suitable lead or an alternative. A thin easily moulded lead is needed or something similar. I'm worried about tapping lead around glass with a hammer, for obvious reasons. If it could be moulded and formed by hand would be better. Can anyone advise me on what to use and the best way to fit it? I had considered flashband, but would prefer a better and nicer looking solution.
     
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  3. datarebal

    datarebal

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    Thin lead doesn't necessarily mean easier. There are several lead alternatives which we have used in areas of left theft vulnerability
    Which product you use really depends on the detailing you need to deal with.

    A picture helps.
     
  4. chappers

    chappers

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    I would mop stick and lead it, but you will need a lead dolly to shape it around the mop stick.
    I would use patination oil on both sides of the lead particularly as it is going to be over glass. I would also blacken the glass on the outer surface where the lead might cover the glass so it looks better from the inside.
     
  5. seneca

    seneca

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    IMG_1876.JPG

    Here's a picture of the ridge area I am trying to cover. I was thinking of filling all the gaps with glazing silicone. Then apply silver aluminium foil tape on the glass, so anything above it will not be seen from underneath. Then a strip of flashband over the area. That's the belt and I need some braces to finally cover the area, that will add some extra protection and look neat. I am currently considering code 4 lead at 180mm wide. I think this will be bonded to the area with a lead sealant. The tricky part will be moulding the lead around all the edges and straightening it out. Anyone have any ideas of whether it will be ok, or any improvements I could make
     
  6. freddiemercurystwin

    freddiemercurystwin

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    Get a leadworker up there if you want it to look sweet.
     
  7. datarebal

    datarebal

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    Mop stick with clips fixed on some how. The lead ridge could be made up on the ground and final dressing in situ.
    if your careful the glass will be fine. No guts no glory..

    Or trot along to a conservatory specialist and buy a Upvc ridge cap
     
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  8. seneca

    seneca

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    I was hoping to do it myself! May not look as sweet as a pro, but so long as it is watertight and looks ok, than I won't mind. After all, except for an upstairs window overlooking it, no one will see it. I had thought the 3 layers - silicone all gaps, flashband to give more protection to silicone and then capping it with lead, or something similar would be ok. Any advice on the DIY method anyone?
    Thanks
     
  9. Nige F

    Nige F

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    Wakaflex lead free flashing .........Stretchable apparently.
     
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  11. seneca

    seneca

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    Looks good, but a bit pricey compared with lead. Not wishing to sound tight, but £60 for 5m, but I only need 70cm length (the ridge is quite short.) Lead is under £10 per m. Would prefer an alternative, lead alternative. Preferably available in short lengths.
     
  12. ^woody^

    ^woody^

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    It will need to be really wide though 450-600mm
     
  13. seneca

    seneca

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    200mm wide and 560 cm long. I know I have to wrap it around each end and that will mean wider, but the centre timber ridge is thin and looks very good from underneath. I would like to trim it to about 3cm over each side of the timber.
     
  14. datarebal

    datarebal

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    sounds like you want to simply lay a bit of lead over the top??

    200 mm wont be wide enough even doing it your way.. Use a mop stick (timber core roll) you will need 450mm wide minimum .
    It was possible to buy a cement fibre ridge formed like a lead roll it came in lengths of about 1200 mm i think.. name escapes me for now
     
  15. seneca

    seneca

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    Yes I figure a layer of lead laid over would act as an extra layer of protection and look neater. I have tired finding a suitable ridge, but there are straight ridge pieces and I need 2 ends for the sloping front and back edges. I can't moptick it because there is no where to attach the mopstick to. The glass all butts up close to each other and cover the wooden ridge they rest on. I have put silicone into all the places the glass meet on the ridge, so the gaps are filled. I will now use some flashband cut to size and cover all these silicone area. This should leave the ridge water tight. Now I want something neater, preferable lead or similar that I can mould over the entire ridge area. I know it would just be sitting there as a cover, but I will bond it to the flashband with a lead sealant. Then seal all the edges. I hope to keep the ridge as narrow as possible, as the wider it is, there more visisble glass it will obscure. No point at looking up into the lantern only to see a fat band of lead. By putting flashband onto the glass first I will "darken " the ridge centre so you will not see the mess from underneath. I may put sliver tape down before the flashabnd, as it will be light reflective. Anyone any alternative suggestions or improvements?

    I also need some reflective silver tape to cover some areas where glass joints are visible, to stop the sun heating up the bonded surfaces. Was going to use 3M silver heat relective tape, but once saw some glass that had what looked like thin metal (possibly lead) strips that had been bonded. Looked like tape but was a very thin strip of rigid metal. Anyone know what this is and where to get it?

    Thanks for all the advice and suggestions so far everyone.
     
  16. Nige F

    Nige F

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    Found it at Roofing superstore, just called a rolltop F/C ridge(y)
     
  17. chappers

    chappers

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    I would have glued a piece of timber between the glass and mop sticked it. I would have used black silicone to pacify the glass so it looks neat from the inside, but it seems you are already down the route you have described so crack on.
     
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