Leak on water tank

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1 May 2009
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I'm at my mothers house and her hot water tank has developed a leak. We called for the emergency plumber through her insurance policy.

The leak was originally on the compression fitting, the plumber tried to 'nip-up' the fitting, but in doing so created a 2nd leak. The 2nd leak is from the locking nut thread. "oh dear I made it worse, by the way I'm not qualified to work on pressurised systems"

A second plumber from the firm turned up and confirmed his colleague was at fault - we have this in writing.

It is now a week since the leak was reported and at this time of year we have loads of trouble waiting for call centres to answer - I was on hold for 80 mins earlier.

Long story short - the inept company that is doing the work is too slow. I want to see if it is something I can sort out before the house is left unoccupied. I know what you are thinking, it's a pressurised system, special training yada yada yada. I'm a senior engineer with a firm that deals with high pressure gas (20+ bar) and liquid systems, so I'm not daft.

Is anyone familiar with this specific tank, if I remove the compression fitting, what does the locking nut do, is the threaded pipe braised at the end, or should it have a lock nut on the inside of the tank, any real world solutions? I have rigged up a temporary catch for the drips, in case you wonder what that is in front of the tank!

It is a Albion Mainsflow MF30 160Litre tank

A - locking nut (?)
B - Leak from thread
C - Compression fitting (also small leak)

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I believe you have a thermal store, which does NOT come under the G3 qualification catagory and as such anyone can work on them.
The leaking flange might be repairable but in my experience repairs to these tanks are not terribly successful.
 
as above its a thermal store not unvented. If its leaking from the flange then personally I wouldn't get involved in trying to repair it
 
hi, drain tank leave compression nut connected slacken lock nut a few turn wrap plenty of ptfe tape round the back it will compress into a washer when tightened up , job done .cheers.
 
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i think the nut looks as if it might have a split in it, once the tank is drained you might find when you try to remove the nut it will split, not the end of the world but you will need to drain the heating to remove the pipe nut to fit the new jam nut
 
I spoke with the tech' department of the manufacturer.

A helpful chap explained how it works. The threaded pipe coming out the tank is loose & only held in place by the locking nut, the nut is sealed from the factory and torqued. The other end of the tube is fixed in position by only the pressure from the retaining nut on the out side (tube has a flat plate to stop it pulling through)

It's a shame I'm not at home with all my tools, so I've just bought some cheap stilsons and a large adjustable, also some PTFE (had to get 10 rolls which will surely last 3 lifetimes), olives for the compression join leak & some Fernox LS-X which was recommended by the technical guy from the manufacturers help desk; although he suggested using it in situ without disturbing the nut, I will probably use it in conjunction with the PTFE around the back of said lock nut.

Unless 'Homeserve' numpties get here this evening.
 

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