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Leaking isolation valve in awkward area - best temporary repair?

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by DIYNotIan, 10 May 2021.

  1. DIYNotIan

    DIYNotIan

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    Hi

    I've got a leaking isolation valve - the type with a flat screw head. It's in a corner next to other pipes on one side, and an extractor fan on t'other. So it's not possible to use self amalgamating tape. The pipe is on the central heating circuit. And the leak is coming from the screw head itself. I've tried turning it to different positions but with no luck.

    Is there some kind of putty, mastic, sealant or whatever that I could put on it to stop the leak? Or any other recommendations to stop the leak? We'll be having some plumbing work done in a few weeks time, so it can be addressed properly then. But a fix in the meantime would be great.

    I have come across a product from Fernox but it says it must be applied to dry surfaces, which isn't possible here because the leak it continuously weeping.

    Any help very much appreciated.

    Cheers


    IMG_20210507_100832840.jpg
     
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  3. just pumps

    just pumps

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    There is no miracle cure I`m aware of, the darn things leak when just looked at :mad: That said I have had success by turning the centre around and around and it suddenly stops so guess somebody was looking down on me that day :D
     
  4. Gasguru

    Gasguru

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    Your could try tying a bit of string around the pipe and leading it into a drip tray for now.
    Those valves should never be used on heating systems...they barely cope with 60 degree domestic hot water.
     
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  5. Mottie

    Mottie

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    A bit dodgy having a water connection close to an electrical item I would think.
     
  6. kidgreen61

    kidgreen61

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    Take the fan off, do away with the iso, do it properly.
     
  7. DIYNotIan

    DIYNotIan

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    Thanks for all the quick replies :)

    I'm happy to do away with the isos and replace with pipe. On the one hand I guess they were put there for a reason. On the other, I've read in a couple of places (and now here) that they are not needed on central heating pipes. Presumably they were put there so the three rads could be worked on? If you guys/plumber think they are not needed though then replacing with pipe is fine with me.

    We'll be getting rid of the fan altogether at some point.


    Mine only turns a quarter turn. I've tried in in various positions with no joy.


    That would work, thanks. I have removed the front cover from the fan which has stopped the water tracking along that and down the wall. It runs down the pipe now which has made it a lot easier to catch in a tray.


    I have another question... Will a plumber need to drain the system to replace the valve(s)? Or is there another way to do it?

    Thanks again
     
  8. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    Depends on the system , is it sealed or open vent ?
     
  9. DIYNotIan

    DIYNotIan

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    Open vent (gravity, with tank in loft). Ta
     
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  11. DIYNotIan

    DIYNotIan

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    Any further thoughts from anyone?

    Many thanks
     
  12. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    you could use a bung kit on the tank will save draining it
     
  13. JohnD

    JohnD

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    The type you have, retail at about 80p. They are rubbish.

    You can buy much better ones, rated for cold, hot or boiling water, or steam. Naturally they cost more.

    I try to get the Pegler ones with a "T" handle, colour coded for pipe temperature. Full bore ones allow better water flow.

    Your fan may be in the way, though. When you change it for an Envirovent or other modern fan, it will be flatter.

    It may be that those pipes are fed from a tank above, in which case tying up the ball and running off enough water to drain the tank will save having to drain the entire system. If the tank contains mud, bale it out into a bucket and sponge clean. Don't let it drain into your system.
     
  14. DIYNotIan

    DIYNotIan

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    I'm not too sure what that means to be honest.

    That answers one of my questions already :) From what I've read and been told there shouldn't be any isolation valves on the CH pipework at all. So with that in mind I won't be asking for them to be replaced (and the fan won't be an issue, although we're getting rid of that anyway), but we are having new sinks put in, sinks moved, etc and I will ask the plumber to use the Pegler T's for those if they are the best. This fella with the relevant colour/rating for application?? -

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-tee-ball-valve-red-15mm/29086

    If so, should I ask to have one put on before every tap - is that usual practise?

    It's hard to tell where the pipes go. The WC is a single storey extension. The wall they are running up is two storey with bathroom above. I presume they come out in the ceiling-floor void in the bathroom above, under the bath itself so I can't get in there at the moment to see where they go next.

    Thanks a million for the replies.
     
  15. JohnD

    JohnD

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    Yes, that's a good one, and, being full-bore, does not restrict water flow like the cheap ones. You notice the difference on a shower, or bath tap.

    You can get flexible tap connectors with built-in ball valves, they are often poor quality and can split if twisted or kinked. I don't know how to identify a really good one.
     
  16. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    You dont need a valve , just replace it with a common compression coupler , 5 min job as for bunging your system there are loads of posts on here and loads of videos on youtube telling you how to do it, its very simple
     
  17. DIYNotIan

    DIYNotIan

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    Great, thanks for that help and advice.

    RE flexible tap connectors, generally speaking are they to be avoided? Is it better to run copper pipe all the way to the taps?

    Cheers

    Please start a new thread for that.
    Mod
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 14 May 2021
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